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BIG COUNTRY1 · 07-14-2014, 08:00 PM

OK....first post ever.. and have been fighting this problem for a couple of days.
The Battery disconnect switch just inside the door of the coach does not turn off all the power as it should. I went to the rear power panel and listened to see if the solenoids ( one above the other wired in series) "clicked" neither one did. I took my meter and found that I had voltage across both sides of the solenoids and that when I did flip the switch the wire on the front of the solenoid is the only thing that lost power. I replaced both of the solenoids and now they are 'clicking" like they should but I still have the same power in all areas of the solenoids. the lights in the coach do not go off despite the solenoids appearing to function properly. The only way I can seem to kill the power to the coach is with the two switches above the solenoids. Does anyone have a suggestion
Respectfully....
The new guy...lol

DtBt · 07-14-2014, 08:48 PM

I think you are referring to what is called "The Salesman switch". The switch is prone to accidental activation, relay problems and draws power needlessly. Most people bypass the switch by jumpering across the large relay terminals and remove the coil wire. When bypassed, to remove all power to the coach use the Guest switches above the relay.

CJScepter · 07-14-2014, 10:39 PM

Is this something new, has it worked in the past. Has the salesman switch been bypassed already? I have never used mine and really don't see I ever will. If I want to turn off power I'll do it with the disconnect switch in the battery/power bay. The solenoid for the salesman switch is in the front cargo bay under the drivers area. There are many posts on the salesman switch and pictures, just do search and you'll find alot of info.
Good luck
John G.

BIG COUNTRY1 · 07-15-2014, 05:41 AM

I have the wiring diagram for my coach and the switch I am talking about is the one that is just inside the door of the coach and based on the diagram it is directly connected to the 2 solenoids that are in the rear power area which is located on the passenger side rear access panel. I did not see any link to the driver side panel which I have been in several times as well. I can kill the power with the two main kill switches in the rear panel but would like to see the switch do its job as well. I have already bought 2 new solenoids as the other ones did present as being bad (swollen and stuff leaking out of them). I did not see any bypass wiring on either solenoid that I took off. the only jumper wire is the one that is used for the battery boost in the event that you have to use the house battery to start the coach....scratching my head as it seems as if it should be pretty simple. The switch at the front just breaks the leg of power that activates the solenoid but in my case it does kill the power to the front terminal post on the solenoid but I still read greater than 12 volts across both sides of the terminal on both solenoids

MandG-Fun · 07-15-2014, 06:53 AM

I agree with DtBt, the solenoids run by the "Salesman Switch" present a bunch of negatives and I can't for the life of me figure out one positive. They draw a lot of power all the time to remain energized (just touch them and see how hot they run), they are prone to failure and will always fail at the worst possible time (when they fail you loose power to the coach), and you have the main battery disconnect switches in the rear run bay when you do want to kill the power.
I bypassed my solenoids a long time ago and never thought about it again (until now

)

Glenn

MandG-Fun · 07-15-2014, 07:00 AM

Here's how I bypassed mine... I just moved the cables that run from the solenoid to the battery compartment to the opposite side of the solenoid, so no current runs through the solenoid. When I did this I cleaned the cable ends real good with emery cloth and coated the terminals with electrical terminal protectant to prevent corrosion and keep the electrons flowing nicely.