Just went out to start my coach (2000 Dynasty 36--ISC 350). Extended the generator to access the "air up" inlet, connected air hose, and aired up until the dryer blew off. (No, not necessary to air up with a compressor, but it is just my habit.)
Went inside to turn the key. "Wait To Start" indicator did not light. Then I noticed every indicator on the left half of the panel was not lighting. That includes:
Stop
Wait to Start'
Water In Fuel
Warning
Maintenance
Low Air
Low Coolant
Generator Out
Funny how you cannot remember what happens when you turn the key, but I think ALL these indicators normally light for a short time to show the lamp is not burned out.
Engine will turn over rapidly as it should, but it's cool enough that I would not expect it to start unless the grid heater relays (Wait to Start) energize. I have the Block Heater on now, to see if it will start once it is at least partially warm. It has been my experience that even in warm weather, it will roll over considerably longer before starting if the grid heaters are not on long enough for the "Wait to Start" lamp to extinguish. In three years, it has never failed to start, but the grid heaters always energized.
On the wiring diagram, I can only find that the grid heater relays are energized from the ECM (possibly with an intermediate relay). But it seems to me that with multiple warning lamps not lighting, there is some sort of electrical supply to a large number of circuits that has failed. I recently replaced the solenoid contactor in the FRB that energized the entire dash, but at that time, the ENTIRE dash was dark, not just the left half.
Could be just a coincidence, but the generator slide retracted after airing up, but now it will not extend. It is operated by a center-off rocker switch, and makes a noise as if the hydraulic pump will energize to "retract", but is totally dead (silent--not even a "click") in the "extend" position.
I will be out trying to trace this down, but thought I'd ask if anyone has encountered something like this. TIA
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If you shut the salesman switch off then I would cycle it a couple of times, mine sometimes sticks off on one of the solenoids. The grid relays are in the high current bay, as are some super fuses. There are also some Bosch type relays in the low current bay that control the ECM, IIRC.
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Jim and Jennie, Cats=Bittles and Potter, 2000 Dynasty 350 ISC
2013 Silverado 4x4 Towed with R1200GS in bed.
PROV23:4 Do not wear yourself out to get rich; have the wisdom to show restraint.
Van,
Here is a PDF of the chassis wiring diagram for my coach, I request this earlier this year. I think the wiring for your coach will be very similar.
Once you open this zoom in to see better, press the CTRL & 5 key at the same time and it will make it clearer.
Also, use the edit , Find function to look for specific working. I did look and it does show the grid heaters along with the rest of the lighting. Most of this is controlled by the ECM so it doesn't show detail regarding that.
If you have trouble reading send me an email
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Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD Cummins ISC 350 8.3L
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
Try disconnecting the battery cable and power down...........after a favorite beverage, and cleaning all terminals, even the ground to the frame,reinstall cable/s and see if anything changed.
Try disconnecting the battery cable and power down...........after a favorite beverage, and cleaning all terminals, even the ground to the frame,reinstall cable/s and see if anything changed.
I second these thoughts, weird DC electrical problems almost always mean a broken or dirty ground wire. Could be something as simple as a broken ground strap between the engine and the chassis. If the ground wire on the battery was dirty or broken you likely have no cranking.
Thanks so much for everyone's suggestions. The problem was one single connector in the forward bundle of wires under the bed. The single waterproof connector joined a heavy (#12?) yellow wire to about a #16 white wire. Have not traced them down on the wiring diagram. It was probably the 20th connector I "refreshed". It did not appear corroded. But a squirt of WD-40, plug and unplug several times, and all was back to normal. Disconnected the wire to be sure that was actually the problem. It was.
I always suspected this electronic engine would not even start if it lost its "brain", but now I KNOW it's true. I used the block heater to get the engine quite warm. It spun over very quickly but would not fire with that single wire disconnected.
Glad you found it. Can you post a picture ? I recently had a very strange start issue after refueling. Nothing to do with getting fuel other than I shut the mh off.
The dash lights went crazy, it started, but I lost guages and other strange things happened. Shut it down, restarted with same problem. Dashed home four miles after being gone four months. Shut it down in the driveway and it started up just fine.
Long ago there were some issues with "chassis splices". Since I have had some really strange previous startup symptoms I decided to finally track mine down and insure they were sound. Finding the front ones was difficult. The rear connections were found easily. A slip connection with a ferrule crimped around them is used so they can use the same basic wire loom and then use whatever is needed on each end to match the coach.
I ripped the loose crimped ferrule off the first connection to inspect. It looked fine but over forty years of experience had taught me that connectors can get a microscopic layer of corrosion that your eye cannot see. Simple exercise of the contact surfaces often cures a problem. Getting before and after voltage measurements is crucial to confirming it. Unfortunately, that does not always happen.
To repair the missing ferrule I just wrapped the connection in the same size wire and soldered it in place. The remaining connectors were "exercised" and the ferrule crimped to add contact surface to the connection.
While I was under there I started with batteries disconnected and removed every cable and ground connections to clean them up with a wire brush and sandpaper. Living in Florida now there is so much moisture that I am not used to finding things rusted being a native Californian. It took a couple of hours and several Aleve to make things factory fresh but it should be good for a couple of years now.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/batt...hes-38914.html
This is a very old thread and many links are gone. I cannot upload the file with the complete pictures that were on it. It is too large by a tiny bit. If someone is really interested in one specific area I can do that.
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Certified Senior Electronic Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Owner, Original owner HR 2008
Guys, the coach is not at my house for a day or two. I'll get a pix when I can and post it.
I have been through the "whole dash goes dark (or intermittent)" problem before. That was one of the contactors (Ford starter relay--looks like tophat) in the front run bay on my 2000 Dynasty. There is a replacement for the contactor that has silver contacts, and is more reliable at the lower current levels it carries. Apparently, when these contactors are switching high power, the arc at make-break makes a contactor surface that is rough enough to always "make" the contact if the current is high. I destroyed and disassembled the one that I had fail. The contacts looked like new, but were slightly oxidized. The oxide layer was enough to prevent it from successfully carrying the few amps that the dash required.
I find that Delcity.net has a large array of often unusual 12VDC items.
I wish I knew how to annotate pix, but I don't. The single connector is approximately in the center of the wide-angle pix, next to the coiled-up white wires. It connects a heavy-gage yellow wire to a smaller white wire. Disconnect this one wire and your engine will never start, and you will not get the "Wait to Start" light.
No luck on locating that wire. I was hoping it was as simple as re splicing that wire. Was this wire very obvious if you lift the bed platform? Or did you have to dig around for it?
I have spent hours checking all fuses, relays, battery cables, any wire splices i can find, with no luck so far. Thank you for all the help.
Linear Mode
