Community Forums

BFlinn181 · 08-18-2017, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broadrun

What is the advantage of running the engine at a higher temp? Understand you don't want it to be too low but 180 degrees sounds ok to me.

Please explain.

Emissions and efficiency usually increase at higher operating temperatures. Engine makers are required to reduce emissions and increase efficiency, so raising temperature is usually a first step.

broadrun · 08-18-2017, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

Emissions and efficiency usually increase at higher operating temperatures. Engine makers are required to reduce emissions and increase efficiency, so raising temperature is usually a first step.

That makes sense.

rallen1948 · 09-13-2017, 08:33 PM

I have a 2000 Monaco Dynasty 40ft with 117000 miles on a 8.3 330hp Cummings engine. I bought it a year ago, but it has been sitting mostly. On a recent trip over the mountains going from Redmond Oregon to Eugene Oregon, the engine over heated, even with rpm at 2000 and about 40 mph. When I stopped to cool engine while in neutral and rpm at 1500 it took awhile to cool enough to proceed, and when I let rpm drop to 600 to engage drive the low oil pressure warning light came on. I just took it in to the shop, and they said the radiator is shot and needs to be replaced. Seems it is clogged from running the east coast where salt is used one the roads during the winter. They want $4200.00 to replace the radiator, mostly labor because of being a side mount. Has any one ever ran into this, and maybe know of a less costly way to fix this? Thanks, Bob

broadrun · 09-13-2017, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rallen1948

I have a 2000 Monaco Dynasty 40ft with 117000 miles on a 8.3 330hp Cummings engine. I bought it a year ago, but it has been sitting mostly. On a recent trip over the mountains going from Redmond Oregon to Eugene Oregon, the engine over heated, even with rpm at 2000 and about 40 mph. When I stopped to cool engine while in neutral and rpm at 1500 it took awhile to cool enough to proceed, and when I let rpm drop to 600 to engage drive the low oil pressure warning light came on. I just took it in to the shop, and they said the radiator is shot and needs to be replaced. Seems it is clogged from running the east coast where salt is used one the roads during the winter. They want $4200.00 to replace the radiator, mostly labor because of being a side mount. Has any one ever ran into this, and maybe know of a less costly way to fix this? Thanks, Bob

That sounds like a high estimate to me but then again, I'm no MH expert. How many labor hours does that estimate represent? Wondering how much they charge per hour.

For your sake I'm hoping others with experience will chime in because it's hard for me to believe that a repair like this could cost that much.

Makes me rethink my decision to even own one of these beasts...

rallen1948 · 09-13-2017, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broadrun

That sounds like a high estimate to me but then again, I'm no MH expert. How many labor hours does that estimate represent? Wondering how much they charge per hour.

For your sake I'm hoping others with experience will chime in because it's hard for me to believe that a repair like this could cost that much.

Makes me rethink my decision to even own one of these beasts...

The repair shop said half of the cost was labor, the other half was the cost of a new radiator. Makes me wonder if rebuilding my radiator would be ok? Thanks for the reply...

rallen1948 · 09-13-2017, 11:59 PM

The shop said half the cost was labor and the other half was a new radiator. I wonder if one could rebuild the old radiator? Thanks for the reply..

adamfolger · 09-14-2017, 01:44 AM

I would not pay that much labor to install a used / rebuilt radiator. Your savings will be minimal. Find a trusted mechanic that works for a shop and see if he will do the job on the side and avoid the high overhead shop hourly rate. Pay the guy doing the work and not the shops rent. I would think a good mobile service tech could do the job. It is bolt on bolt off, just time consuming.

oldguy70 · 09-14-2017, 05:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broadrun

What is the advantage of running the engine at a higher temp? Understand you don't want it to be too low but 180 degrees sounds ok to me.

Please explain.

I prefer running diesel engines hot. Right now I would be happy if my engine
ran at 180. One of my thermostats or both are stuck open and I am just leaving
Newfoundland and will pick up new thermostats in Halifax as that is the nearest
place that I can get them. Right now I have more than 1/2 the radiator blocked
off and if it isn't too cold I can get it up to running temp.

rallen1948 · 09-14-2017, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rallen1948

The repair shop said half of the cost was labor, the other half was the cost of a new radiator. Makes me wonder if rebuilding my radiator would be ok? Thanks for the reply...

Thanks Again...

CJScepter · 09-14-2017, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rallen1948

I have a 2000 Monaco Dynasty 40ft with 117000 miles on a 8.3 330hp Cummings engine. I bought it a year ago, but it has been sitting mostly. On a recent trip over the mountains going from Redmond Oregon to Eugene Oregon, the engine over heated, even with rpm at 2000 and about 40 mph. When I stopped to cool engine while in neutral and rpm at 1500 it took awhile to cool enough to proceed, and when I let rpm drop to 600 to engage drive the low oil pressure warning light came on. I just took it in to the shop, and they said the radiator is shot and needs to be replaced. Seems it is clogged from running the east coast where salt is used one the roads during the winter. They want $4200.00 to replace the radiator, mostly labor because of being a side mount. Has any one ever ran into this, and maybe know of a less costly way to fix this? Thanks, Bob

First, if it's not leaking I would clean it, you can't even see it if you don't go under and look from the engine side.
I replaced my radiator 2 years ago, I got mine from "The Radiator Supply House " in Sweethome Oregon. They have the old spec's from Monaco and say they can build it to match. I'm too picky to let someone else work on my coach so I'll try anything I can. The radiator is brass, with steel tanks. I replaced it myself. If the radiator IS an exact replacement it shouldn't cost $2000.00 for labor. Mine was $2200.00. They didn't send me the exact replacement so I had some modifications to do, that would have bumped the price up for sure. Something to remember, they will probably replace hoses, thermostat, coolant, trans cooler is in my radiator so lost some fluid etc and so on. Good time to replace hoses on intercooler too as you have to unbolt it from the coolant radiator.
Good luck, I would get it cleaned first, if it is original plan on replacing it when you can.
good luck,
John G

rallen1948 · 09-14-2017, 06:29 PM

Thanks for your info. Being I'm not able to R&R the radiator myself, can you tell me how many shop hours do you think it would take to do this? Thanks, Bob

CJScepter · 09-15-2017, 09:23 AM

Cost to replace a radiator is really hard to nail down. I think your coach requires dropping the radiator out the bottom, mine had a panel over that area on hinges and I could flip it up making it easier to do the job. On mine the radiator is holds the CAC and the air conditioner condenser, they bolt to the radiator as well as the fan assembly. They can be unbolted and the radiator can be dropped out,,,at least on mine. I had a GUESS on rebuilding mine for $1300.00 to $1800.00, new was $2200.00. like I said, new coolant, probably thermostat, hoses, ect. If you had $2000.00 dollars labor that would be @$150.00 per hour, about 13 hours. IF,, the new radiator was exact fit that might be a little high but many times they don't fit exactly,,,at $150.00 an hour it can eat up a lot of money quick, making it fit. If you have your radiator rebuilt you can be sure it is correct.
Is it leaking? if not it probably needs to be cleaned, east coast salt doesn't get inside the radiator. But like I said, probably should look at replacing soon as you can.
Can't really answer the question, too many variables. Ask for a detailed list of work to be done and materials used.
Good luck again
John G

rallen1948 · 09-15-2017, 09:23 PM

Thanks for your info... This winter I might try going the long way to avoid the mountains to avoid overheating. As it runs fine on short climbs, and look at getting a new radiator next fall. Thanks Again, Bob

BFlinn181 · 09-15-2017, 09:57 PM

I'd suggest you do a radiator flush to make sure it's clean on the inside, and clean the outside of the radiator and inner cooler with a hose and some cleaner safe for the material the components are made of. A detergent and a hose end sprayer can do a lot of good for making things more efficient. Then drive the mountains and see how it does. Downshift as temps start to climb. You might consider new thermostat(s) too.

I'm curious, did the mechanic say what he meant by the "radiators shot." If it was leaking, I'd understand. If fins are bent, use a fin comb, available at most big home improvement stores.