2001 Monaco Signature - Lost Power to 1/2 of Cockpit Items

[JJTL]

Well got the motorhome back from service and started on my project list as per my other thread, however ran into an issue that has jumped to the top of the priority list, as the first trip starts Saturday morning. For these reasons and since it's a specific issue I thought a dedicated thread was useful.

We've lost power to a number of items in the cockpit area including: radio, step cover, 12V plugs, driver and passenger shades, compartment lights, map lights and cockpit fans (that I've noticed so far).

When we test drove it we noticed the step cover and map lights didn't work. However, when we picked it up and ever since dropping it off at the dealer for service (3 weeks) all these items have been working, and I checked them personally. Went to pick it up today, and none of the listed items are working.

So far I've tried cycling the main power disconnects. All related fuses look good. I've been investigating in the forward electrical bay (below drivers window) and have found a fuse block labelled "Domestic Fuse Block" and as far as I can tell all the items are limited to this block. However, some items like the CB and TV antenna do work. See attached picture of schematic from compartment door. All items which are switch powered by the ignition seem to be working.

My first gut feel with all these items going at once together is that its a ground, or relay or solenoid issue. Does anyone know where the grounds for these items would be? Are they common? Any other ideas or input would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

[JJTL]

As I studying the electrical schematics and read about some potentially similar issues others have had, it appears the Domestic Fuse Block in the Front Run Bay is fed from solenoids in the Rear Run Box. Does that sound correct? I think these solenoids are controlled by the battery cut off switch inside ("Salesman Switch"). Wondering if one of these solenoids is bad. How best would you test the solenoid, measure voltage across it?

[engine103]

Hi Josh, I really have no idea whats going on with Big Blue and electrical things baffle me. But I can tell you some of the issues I had with mine. First time I lost all 110/120 power and it was a bad ground. My RV guy fixed it and I don't know what he did. Second time I again lost all 110/120 power but it would shut down and then return a few minutes later and this pattern continued all night. I reset the inverter and that seemed to solve that problem going on year now. Several reading your post will suggest that you by-pass the Salesman switch solenoid.

[JJTL]

Here are some pictures of the rear run box in the engine compartment showing the two continuous solenoids and the corresponding diagram. They are labelled as "Step Switch Continuous Solenoid", by step switch am I correct they mean the salesman's battery cutoff switch in the cockpit area?

Of course, we moved the motorhome this morning and power is back to all the items I listed above! This could make narrowing down the root issue a little bit more tricky.

[Bussinit]

Originally Posted by JJTL

Here are some pictures of the rear run box in the engine compartment showing the two continuous solenoids and the corresponding diagram. They are labelled as "Step Switch Continuous Solenoid", by step switch am I correct they mean the salesman's battery cutoff switch in the cockpit area?



Of course, we moved the motorhome this morning and power is back to all the items I listed above! This could make narrowing down the root issue a little bit more tricky.

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have the exact same problem on my 2000 Sig. usually happens after it’s been stored for a while with the salesman switch off. I drive it around for a while and the power just comes on.

[engine103]

Hi Josh and Bussinit, I had the same problem with the salesman switch and I have seen and heard of so many ways to bypass it and none of them match up with either my solenoid configuration or location. But, yours is like mine and this is what I did. If you look at your picture #2, I got a jumper cable from Walmart and connected one end to the large terminal on the left side of the solenoid on the left. The other end put on the far right terminal of the solenoid on the right. The purple wire that goes from the left to right terminal needs to be disconnected and the bare end taped up, you don't need to remove it. Did not remove any wires or cables other than the purple one.

The results of this is no change in anything electrical except I have never lost power since. Now this is a perfect time fore someone to jump in and tell me I'm all wrong but all I can say is that this seems to have worked for me. Jim

[rpasetto]

Josh,
Jim above is on the right track, the "salesman switch" relay he mentions is prone to intermittent failure and the way he describes 'jumpering' the large terminals can also be applied to testing other suspect relays. You may find another WHite-Rodgers solenoid relay in that right rear box, which is controlled by the first one (my 03 has that). You also may find more relays in that Front Electrical Box http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1572965755
under the driver window along with the fuses. Mine has both the White-Rodgers type (metal cylinder about 2" long) and the Bosch (square box); yours may too. It is worth keeping spares of each.

There's the entire 2003 Dynasty Wiring Diagram book PDF in the files section here. Good luck

[JJTL]

Thanks everyone for the detailed replies and information. I am 99% sure the issue was the solenoid which is controlled by the salesman switch. The issue has fixed it self currently, and I have a piece of tape over the salesman switch and have not used it since. I will replace the solenoid (or jumper it) when I get back in the Spring.

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have the exact same problem on my 2000 Sig. usually happens after it’s been stored for a while with the salesman switch off. I drive it around for a while and the power just comes on.

In our Signature there are two solenoids in the rear run box (right side of engine compartment) which are controlled by the salesman switch. One solenoid controls power to the fuse box in the rear bedroom, and the other solenoid controls power to the 'Domestic Fuse Block' in the front run box (compartment below driver). If you look at my pictures above you will see them. The solenoids are "80A Continuous Duty 12V, single pole, normally open" you can find them on Amazon or parts stores pretty easily. Just be sure they are continuous duty and not ignition solenoids, as the two look identical. The other option as mentioned above, is to simply bypass or jumper across the solenoids. This should work fine if the correct gage of wire is used, you will just loose the salesman switch functionality.

[engine103]

The solenoids are "80A Continuous Duty 12V, single pole, normally open" [/QUOTE]

NAPA part# ST85

[JJTL]

Originally Posted by engine103

The solenoids are "80A Continuous Duty 12V, single pole, normally open"

NAPA part# ST85

Awesome! Thanks for the part number. Going to pick up some new ones and maybe even a spare.

[Arch Hoagland]

"and I have a piece of tape over the salesman switch " Me too.

First thing I thought of when I read your post. I had picked up my coach after service and my power seats wouldn't work on the way home. Got home and discovered nothing else was working either.

Checked the salesman switch and sure enough they had turned it on to conserve the battery.

[Bussinit]

Thank you all for the information. I’m grabbing a couple of the solenoids as well.

[RobRoy]

Great that you got it figured out....that said .......IMO dont leave home without some of these for various reasons....cheap inshowunce!





ps: I believe one of the things that kill those salesman switch solenoids is them being turned on and off with the a/c units turned on and the current spike when doing so kills the solenoid contacts over time.. causing the failure.

[engine103]

The above jumper cables are available at Walmart in the automotive battery section.