2002 Monaco Dynasty Dash Lights

[drnitrous]

Hello All,
I recently purchased a 02 Monaco Dynasty Regal 42 footer. It has 53k miles and it is in great shape. It had a few minor issues I have already repaired, however the last problem has me a bit baffled. It has no backlighting in the gauges, radio, or switchpanels in the cockpit, the rheostat does nothing. There is power at the fuseblock across the fuse but there is none at the distribution block that is labeled instrument panel located directly above it. The wiring diagrams do not show the layout of the switch and was hoping someone here would know the layout and where to jumper it to test the switch and grounds. Important note, all of the instruments function fine, and the smartwheel backlighting works. This may be as simple as a bad rheostat, I'm just not sure how to test it.
Thanks for your time,
Brent

[pipedream2]

Brent
Not trying to affend here ....but....When you say "the rheostat does nothing." do you mean the headlight switch or the dash light dimmer......there are two in my coach.......All the dash back lights are fed from one source through a dimmer switch (not the headlight switch ) and grounded by daisy chained common wire to the electronic ground strip behind the dash.

[Rex]

To add to what Dennis said, the rheostat part of the headlight switch turns on the map/reading lights on my coach.

[drnitrous]

No offense taken, the only rheostat on mine is in the headlight switch. I spent some time just probing the connections with a test light, as dumb luck would have it the dash lights woke up when I squeezed the switch. I pulled the switch and found the plate that rides on the rheostat coil was making intermittent contact, ran down to NAPA a little bit ago and picked up a new switch. I now have dash lights as well as all the rocker switches lighting up. Glad it was that easy!!!! Thanks for replying, I really appreaciate it.
Brent

[RonNBama]

Did you take the old switch in to NAPA or was there a part number somewhere? I was having the same problem and used contact cleaner which seemed to help. I took one look at the switch with a gazillion wires attached to it and figured it was a unique, one-of-a-kind item that I would have to source from some secret society of electronic technicians. BTW: the cleaning worked for a short time, now the lights are once again intermittent.

[pipedream2]

Rex
Mine does the same (DS map light)......just thought (not real hard it seems) that Exec's and dynasty's where similar....within similar years

[pipedream2]

Glad you got fixed up....not seenig gauges after dark would be awfull

[Rex]

OK guys, the headlight switch is an AC Delco D1588. You can get it at Advanced Auto their part number part # 5970857 for 1973 Chevy C10 truck.

There is a trick to getting it out of the dash. The shaft comes out but there is a catch. There is a spring loaded small ‘tit’ under the bottom of the switch near the back. This has to be pressed while you pull the shaft. It is stubborn and may take several tries to get it out. Now unscrew the mounting that surrounded the shaft on the front of the dash. Slip the removed mount on the shaft and set them aside. The switch is now off the back of the dash.

Be sure to count the number of terminals and get the same number. Some have 7 and others have 8 terminals.

[drnitrous]

Sorry for the delayed response, I was out of town over the holiday and my Blackberry wouldn't allow me to post. Rex is correct, and that shaft was initially hard to get out, was easiest to pull the knob out to turn on the headlights, then push like crazy on that little "tit" and vooola, it came out, then just gently pushed the lights off with the shaft so it didn't relock the shaft, then removed it from the dash. I got mine from NAPA for a 1973 Chevy C10 as well. He is also right when he states the number of terminals. The switch I got from NAPA had one less terminal than the original, but at least in mine the terminal missing had nothing in the connector to attach. My map lights are independent from the headlight switch, perhaps that extra terminal turns them on, don't know for sure on the Exec how they work, none the less, if the connector has nothing to attach to it it must be a redundant terminal in my case, maybe Rex knows why it is there. Went over the thing pretty closely when I bought it in the daylight, was a big surprise going through Saint Loius when I turned on the lights and had no dash lights, lol, map light was a savior in that case!!! Thanks for all the input, appreciate it.
B

[Florida_Mike]

I have been struggling with a similar problem on my 01 Diplomat. The headlights and dash lights would work intermittently (never both at the same time). I found the correct replacement switch AC Delco D1588, by pulling the old part and having a tech at Advance Auto Parts hunt for a match.

After getting the new switch, I realized I needed a new connector as the previous one was melted. I have just installed the new switch and connector and the headlights and map light work 100%. However, I am not getting any response from dash lights or running / marker lights (all fuses in fuse box are good). Can anyone tell me which terminals on the switch work the dash lights and marker lights? This will help speed up my troubleshooting.

[Rex]

Florida Mike, are you sure the number of terminals for the old and new switch are the same? If not that may be the problem. On the other hand, the fact that the connecting plug was melted indicates heat cause most likely be a bad or loose connection. Only other thing that would cause it is excessive voltage.

Do you have a copy of the schematics for your 01 Diplomat? If not contact me rbdtanasi at yahoo dot com and I will send them to you.

[drnitrous]

As Rex said, make sure it has the correct number of terminals, if correct then from memory it seems to me the terminal for the dashlights can easily be tracked to the rheostat portion of the switch, think is was riveted to the "spring looking" part of the switch on the front of the switch. If you changed out the terminal connector I would double check the spades are clicked in there ok as well. I have seen those push out of the connector when hooking them back up. As far as the melting goes, Rex is right, something is up, I have seen several over the years melt on vehicles pulling trailers due to the added amperage pulled through the switch for the trailer running lights. Newer trailers with LEDs are much more switch friendly. I wish my Dyansty schematics showed the switch terminal layout but they do not. My dashlights are working great now, unfortunately now the headlights died, everything else is working, arrrrrg . Its been in the negatives here for a while so I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, suspect its a relay or power to one, fuse is ok. Oh well, time to find another gremlin. Good luck!

[PedalBike]

I just replaced my headlight switch today to solve a "no gauge lights" problem. Thanks for all the information that was provided on this thread. (My local auto parts people couldn't find the replacement switch.)
Thankful!,
PedalBike
2002 Monaco Windsor PST