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Old 11-12-2018, 04:23 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by dalemschultz View Post
Hi Bob,


I went out and swapped the only two (that I could find) "thumb-drives" (Resetting Fuses) and sure enough, Pilot's seat has movement! Yay! I need to do some rewiring work on the Co-Pilot's seat and hopefully it will be fully functional as well. Are these resetting fuses specialty items? I'll check online.


Thank you,
Dale
Dale,

I have purchased one at Advanced Auto. Here are a few links to this type of fuse.

https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Reset-Mi.../dp/B00NVJ2S52

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-C.../dp/B009WQPC06

https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Reset-Mi.../dp/B00NVJ2HNU

Bob
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:26 AM   #86
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Thanks Bob!


That looks like the ones I ordered. Type 1 ATM.


Hope I don't need to lock the doors! Ha ha! Robbed that one (15A) to use for the seats.



Dale
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:32 AM   #87
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Hey Bob,


Myron mentioned Bill D's gathering in February. We're driving this week from Washington to Florida to spend the Winter and I'm hoping to attend at least the seminars and enjoy the food and meet new friends. I think I saw where you do attend as well. Will you be there this year?


Dale
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:27 PM   #88
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Hey Bob,


Myron mentioned Bill D's gathering in February. We're driving this week from Washington to Florida to spend the Winter and I'm hoping to attend at least the seminars and enjoy the food and meet new friends. I think I saw where you do attend as well. Will you be there this year?


Dale
Dale,

We have a reservation and if the creeks don't rise and the good Lord is willing we will be there. Can you tell I'm country! If memory serves, and it may not, this will be our 5th Gathering. We usually spend a few weeks down in Florida some time after New Years each year. Looking forward to meeting you. YC1 (Myron) usually attends and does not live far from the Gathering location. He moved from Sacramento to Florida after retirement.

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Old 11-12-2018, 08:07 PM   #89
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Hey Bob,


Kinda like an East coast QZ! Need to convince the wife we should attend with the rig so I don't have to commute each day to/from Silver Springs. Ouch!


Dale
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Old 11-13-2018, 06:37 AM   #90
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An "East Coast Quartzite", I like it!
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Old 11-13-2018, 06:42 AM   #91
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Relay for DRL

Bob Nodine and I have a mutual friend in FL, Tom Moore. He does not post on any forum, so I will relay what I know about a problem he had with his 2011? Camelot. He was chasing this problem--Every time he turned on his headlights and/or changed from high to low beams (or vice-versa), it would blow a fuse. Long story short, he finally called Monaco tech and they told him, "Look to see if you have a relay in position XYZ. If you do, remove it permanently. It is for DRL, conflicts with the wiring on your coach, and should never have been installed there."

That's all I know. Just thought it might help someone.
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:10 AM   #92
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Hey, thanks Van!


Actually, that is good to know! I asked (Myron?) recently if any of the Monaco models used the DRL socket. I had a tech (Had...), ask, "why's that empty? Lets try this in there." Then I had headlight issues. Think I'll label mine "leave empty" with a tape over the socket.


The net result of this whole excursion into my step cover (for me) has been Relay sockets #2 & #3, just to the upper left of the mother board. I had to get 2 working relays in there and the problem of retracting or extending completely went away. Relays, problem solved. Gave me a chance to get up close with that whole mechanism though. The step cover need to be designed & implemented better, IMHO.



Good to hear from you Van!
Regards,
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Old 11-13-2018, 07:39 PM   #93
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I did at one time have a standard 30A relay placed in the DRL socket but it created headlight issues. Subsequently, it's been removed and currently, I have nothing in that socket.


Dale
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Old 11-14-2018, 04:07 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanwill View Post
Bob Nodine and I have a mutual friend in FL, Tom Moore. He does not post on any forum, so I will relay what I know about a problem he had with his 2011? Camelot. He was chasing this problem--Every time he turned on his headlights and/or changed from high to low beams (or vice-versa), it would blow a fuse. Long story short, he finally called Monaco tech and they told him, "Look to see if you have a relay in position XYZ. If you do, remove it permanently. It is for DRL, conflicts with the wiring on your coach, and should never have been installed there."

That's all I know. Just thought it might help someone.
Van mentioned Tom Moore and it reminded me that this whole thread was started for Tom by Van while Tom and Van were on their way to Q last year.

Dale, Van will also be at the Gathering and will do a presentation on Roadmaster Chassis handling issues and some proven fixes for them.

Bob
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Old 11-17-2018, 05:35 AM   #95
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Drawing for step cover

A member of Monacoers on Yahoo posted a PDF drawing of the electric step cover. I had not seen that before and quickly added it to my collection. Thought others might find it useful so posting it here.

Bob
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File Type: pdf _Stepwell Indiana step cover.pdf (2.47 MB, 33 views)
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Old 06-16-2020, 12:12 PM   #96
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GOOD GRIEF:
Did a search in the little box above and up came this thread. Found myself posting a lot of stuff.

Well, that damn step cover slide out problem revisited me. This time thanks to the gentleman that is rebuilding a wrecked Camelot I knew how to remove it completely.
Two screws to release it but lots more to get the wood deck out of the way and more to remove the grab rail too. Will hurt tomorrow.
Now to diagnose the rnsankingmultiplebeerdriving rascal.

Put my test light across the wires. Pushed the control button and it comes on bright of course.
Toggled the switch the other way and the light came on but not as bright for a second and then it came up bright.
This is why a test light is so valuable. A voltmeter could have easily fooled me. I needed just a small load to see what is happening.

Now the reason I did the search is because I could not remember nor find the relays that run this thing. I cannot hear them clicking.
So out came the signal tracer and I stopped after chasing wires along the dash and came back to the forum.
It appears there are some relays in the front run bay area I will look for. When I find those consarned no good rascals I will post a picture here and will save this thread for some other poor unfortunate soul.
I shall return.!
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Old 06-17-2020, 04:49 AM   #97
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GOOD GRIEF:
Did a search in the little box above and up came this thread. Found myself posting a lot of stuff.

Well, that damn step cover slide out problem revisited me. This time thanks to the gentleman that is rebuilding a wrecked Camelot I knew how to remove it completely.
Two screws to release it but lots more to get the wood deck out of the way and more to remove the grab rail too. Will hurt tomorrow.
Now to diagnose the rnsankingmultiplebeerdriving rascal.

Put my test light across the wires. Pushed the control button and it comes on bright of course.
Toggled the switch the other way and the light came on but not as bright for a second and then it came up bright.
This is why a test light is so valuable. A voltmeter could have easily fooled me. I needed just a small load to see what is happening.

Now the reason I did the search is because I could not remember nor find the relays that run this thing. I cannot hear them clicking.
So out came the signal tracer and I stopped after chasing wires along the dash and came back to the forum.
It appears there are some relays in the front run bay area I will look for. When I find those consarned no good rascals I will post a picture here and will save this thread for some other poor unfortunate soul.
I shall return.!
Myron,

I don't think there are any relays involved. The switches do the reversing by doing a +,- or a -,+. In the front run bay there should be a self resetting fuse that removes the power if you hold the switch down to the point of stalling the motor. At least that is how it works on our 2006 Diplomat. Check fuse #8 in the front run bay. It should be labeled Step Cover C.B.

Bob
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Old 06-17-2020, 05:04 AM   #98
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As usual Bob you are spot on. No relays and there is a CB in the front run panel. My documentation is now up to date on that. My signal tracer blew up so a new one is on order. Van, if you are following this and haven't bought one yet I will let you know how it works. No cheapie this time but it won't break the bank.

Now to chase the little gremlin down. I had three or four projects going yesterday and quit working on the slide when the sun moved over. Hotter than heck yesterday but I got a lot done including changing plugs on my F150. Easiest plug change ever but I'm paying for it today.

I discovered yesterday using a test light that pressing one of the switches one way the light comes on strong and pressing it the other way it comes on about 2/3 and then goes full bright. That will be fun and interesting to diagnose. This is right up my alley so should be fun to chase. I don't want to just throw switches at it but checking my files I found where I replaced them before.

I suspect they take an electrical beating because the slide motor does not have any limit switches so the motor just stalls when open or closed. The circuit breaker takes the heat I suspect when both switches that control it are pressed but in opposite directions.

They use a lot of molex plugs in the design which is not a bad thing but certainly could be contributing to the issue. I will sort if it is a ground or hot issue and also check if the motor has some sort of intermittent.

The complete step cover is out now and thanks to this forum I found it was much easier than anticipated but still took some work. Just three screws hold the assembly in place but you have to get the face board off the cover IF it is stuck in the closed position. One could drill holes and plug them for future service if stuck in that position but past modification on the thing has made removing that front kick board easy enough.

I may add a light tin sheet in place of the top board and rivet it in place. Then I can make new holes for screws for the top board that are easier to get to when taking apart.
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