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robisinwa · 11-11-2017, 11:29 PM

This was a great post, it got me to go out and buy the Samsung 4k TV mentioned at Costco.. it was on sale for a hair under $500.

I took the opportunity to upgrade the amplifier and DVD player to all use HDMI at the same time. The new DVD player can go online via wireless and play videos from Amazon, Netflick, etc.

The new TV just barely fits in the drop down mount, you have to have it centered exactly in there. I had a heck of a time figuring out how to mount it, I ended up using plywood as mentioned but I did it a little different. What I did was use a 2x4 foot piece, cut in half, mounting one half via the existing holes on the drop down frame. The other piece I mounted to the TV itself, and then I centered the TV in the frame, wife held to make sure it didn't fall forward, and I screwed the 2 pieces of plywood together. Interesting enough, the holes on the metal frame were VESA 400 spaced apart, the holes were just in the wrong place for the holes on the new TV. Sucker is in there rock solid.

I'm loving the 4K resolution and the online capability of the DVD player. The new amplifier has a bluetooth ability as well so I can now play my cell phone music through it as well.

Grand total cost, under 900 dollars and well worth it I think.

Flyin4Fun · 11-12-2017, 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vito.a

Flyin, I just checked my Monaco Data sheet and it does not list the TV lift, but I'm sure one of the other guys on here knows. I do know they are electric motors and about half the coaches we looked at were broken.
If they would discount it, I'd say get the broken one and repair it.

The lift is an entire module hanging down from the ceiling on model years up through 2005. After that, they were recessed into the ceiling. If you are adding it onto a coach, I would think the early version would work well.

Hypoxia, wow an 8 series would be nice!

Vito, somehow I missed your response until just now. I appreciate that you took the time to answer my questions and provide the information... Thank you very much. Currently I'm fortunate because there is a 2004 Monaco Signature with the overhead mount in my neighborhood. I am able to inspect that for measurements and other info regarding how to fabricate one to be installed in my coach. I am at the point where I believe I will literally create the entire device... The one from Monaco, as you mentioned, has a history of failures. I have high quality components that I use in my company that will work quite well. When I get it done I will gladly post some photos. Thanks again for everything you've shared!

pwhittle · 11-12-2017, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hypoxia

This thread made me start thinking about installing speaker wires from the entertainment center to the galley the next time I have to remove the bay ceiling covers. That would allow the Bose system to be replaced with any AV system.

Hypoxia,

I plan to do this too and my plan is to run two pair of speaker wires from the entertainment cabinet to the center of the coach where the speaker wire from the galley to the drivers side speaker crosses over.

Then cut that wire and connect one of the new pairs to the run to the drivers side speaker, and the other new pair to the run to the galley. Under the galley, join the end that used to feed the drivers side speaker to the wire going to the passenger side speaker. That will save some of the aggravation of running the speaker wires all the way to the slide.

I am still working on how to get the subwoofer signal from the front cabinet to the sub location, which could be in the galley where the Bose unit is or under the passenger couch.

Perhaps a wireless subwoofer solution would work.

Vito,

When you ran your cables, do you get from the entertainment cabinet to the basement down the A-pillar?

Paul

hypoxia · 11-13-2017, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwhittle

my plan is to run two pair of speaker wires from the entertainment cabinet to the center of the coach where the speaker wire from the galley to the drivers side speaker crosses over.

Then cut that wire and connect one of the new pairs to the run to the drivers side speaker, and the other new pair to the run to the galley. Under the galley, join the end that used to feed the drivers side speaker to the wire going to the passenger side speaker. That will save some of the aggravation of running the speaker wires all the way to the slide.

An option is to use the existing front speaker wires. They already run to the galley, you could splice them into the existing rear speaker wires which are also in the galley. Then just run new front speaker wires, an easy task.

The existing wires that run from the Bose Lifestyle to the subwoofer could be used for the new subwoofer. For more power capacity just connect several in parallel, I think there are 6 or 7 wires in that cable run which has S Video connectors on each end.

If you take the Bose subwoofer apart and eliminate the digital circuit you may be able to use it???

pwhittle · 11-13-2017, 06:02 PM

That is an even better idea better idea to use the front speaker wires.

We could use the center speaker wires to send a speaker level subwoofer signal to the galley too!

My system cable is an S-video on the media center end and RJ-45 on the Acoustimass end

vito.a · 11-17-2017, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwhittle

Hypoxia,
Vito,
When you ran your cables, do you get from the entertainment cabinet to the basement down the A-pillar?
Paul

On the Signature I routed 3 HDMI cables and a digital audio cable from the overhead TV to the video cabinet over the passenger seat. I removed the AC vent above the windshield pass side and ran the cables to it first, then on to the video cabinet. I encased all 4 cables in 3/4" convoluted tubing.

On our Exec, I routed a single HDMI to the bedroom TV. It was routed down through the door trim into the generator compartment above the pass headlight and then around the drivers side underneath along with the other cables in the full wall slide and then up into the mid coach bedroom. And then the cable didn't work! Had to rerun another cable but used the first cable to pull it through the hard areas. I'm not doing that again!