5th Gen Ford Explorer "TOAD" question.

[RobRoy]

I recently purchased a 2011 Ford Explorer with intentions of using as toad sometime in the future.

Why does the key have to be in the acc position?

I have checked the steering wheel and with the ignition in the off position the steer wheel does NOT lock. ( nor does it lock in any ignition position that I can find)


For reference my vehicle uses this type ignition key Attachment 195753


ps: I tried to attach this to a older thread here at iRV2 on the subject but because of the age of the thread would not permit me do so


Thanks in advance

[distaff]

I have a 2010 Flex I pull, and the ignition should be turned as far to "Off" as it will turn - you want your electrical system off. Having said that I pulled if for an hour on a recent trip with the engine on and the transmission in neutral. Didn't do it any harm but I wasted a bit of gas.

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by distaff

I have a 2010 Flex I pull, and the ignition should be turned as far to "Off" as it will turn - you want your electrical system off. Having said that I pulled if for an hour on a recent trip with the engine on and the transmission in neutral. Didn't do it any harm but I wasted a bit of gas.

Im gonna get this noodled out sooner or later LOL

If you look at the pic I posted in my earlier post you will see that my particular model Explorer does not use a KEY per say it uses this




and not this





Yes I want my electrical system OFF while towing ...at least thats's what " I " want.

But the Ford owners manual says the following:

" If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels on the ground:
• Tow only in the forward direction.
• Release the parking brake.
• Place the transmission shift lever in N (Neutral).
• Place the ignition in the accessory position (refer to Starting in the
Driving chapter).
• Do not exceed 65 mph (105 km/h)
• Start the engine and allow it to run for five minutes at the beginning
of each day and every six hours thereafter. With the engine running
and your foot on the brake, shift into D (Drive) and then into R
(Reverse) before shifting back into N (Neutral).
Tires, Wheels and Loading
263 "

Thanks for your input

[Craig36]

Suggest you talk with the service manager at your local Ford dealer.

[K7JV]

We towed our 2011 Explorer about 20,000 miles. We followed the instructions in the owners manual, as you quoted above. On a few instances, we lost the continuity of the 12 volt charge line, and a couple of times found insufficient battery remaining to start the car. So I would highly suggest you provide a charge line to your Explorer.

Your Ford will NOT tally miles on the odometer, with the key on. So no worries there. I'm sorry I don't recall the reason for the ignition being left in the "ON" position. You are beyond your new car warranty, so at this point you can do what you want, without fear of losing that coverage, but I would do what the manual suggests. They probably had a pretty good reason for specifying that it be left "ON".

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by K7JV

We towed our 2011 Explorer about 20,000 miles. We followed the instructions in the owners manual, as you quoted above. On a few instances, we lost the continuity of the 12 volt charge line, and a couple of times found insufficient battery remaining to start the car. So I would highly suggest you provide a charge line to your Explorer.

Your Ford will NOT tally miles on the odometer, with the key on. So no worries there. I'm sorry I don't recall the reason for the ignition being left in the "ON" position. You are beyond your new car warranty, so at this point you can do what you want, without fear of losing that coverage, but I would do what the manual suggests. They probably had a pretty good reason for specifying that it be left "ON".

Did the steering wheel lock in your 2011 ?

Thanks for your input

[K7JV]

You know what? I don't remember that I ever checked. I didn't have a reason to check it. If I had to guess, I would say no.

Like you, our Explorer did not have an ignition key, but rather just a fob and a Start/Stop button. If turning on the ignition system energized a relay to mechanically unlock the steering wheel, I would think that a discharged battery would allow such a relay to re-engage with the steering system, and I don't believe that ever happened in the instances where our battery discharged.

Also, in our 2011 Explorer, the on-board automation that enabled and controlled the auto-park feature required that there was an active link between the mechanical steering system and the monitoring and control systems in the car. Perhaps that interconnection is why Ford requires the ignition to be left in other than the "OFF" position.

Sorry I couldn't definitively answer your question.

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by K7JV

You know what? I don't remember that I ever checked. I didn't have a reason to check it. If I had to guess, I would say no.

Like you, our Explorer did not have an ignition key, but rather just a fob and a Start/Stop button. If turning on the ignition system energized a relay to mechanically unlock the steering wheel, I would think that a discharged battery would allow such a relay to re-engage with the steering system, and I don't believe that ever happened in the instances where our battery discharged.

Also, in our 2011 Explorer, the on-board automation that enabled and controlled the auto-park feature required that there was an active link between the mechanical steering system and the monitoring and control systems in the car. Perhaps that interconnection is why Ford requires the ignition to be left in other than the "OFF" position.

Sorry I couldn't definitively answer your question.

Sounds like that your Explorer was the same ignition keyset up as mine.

Currently I’m on the road and slowly working my way back north and the DW is following me in Explorer and I have the coach and my current towed, so I only putts with it as we go and have time. ( no big deal at this point)

Yesterday while stopped I tried the the steering again and it definitely does not lock. So probably when I set it up in the future I will try towing it both ways.

Doing some Googling and the likes I found that many Explorer owners seem to use a disconnect at the battery with a switch at the battery negative terminal because of the battery going dead while on the road with the key in the ACC position, I found that interesting and to be very telling and that some are towing with no 12vdc power at all to the car itself.

Personally I don’t like the idea of connecting and disconnecting the battery on late model vehicles due to voltage spike issues and have seen that take out communication modules and end up having to replace them and in most cases they have to be programmed ta boot

Im thinking that perhaps one difference as to why they want the key in acc position may be in the two types of ignition switches used . I wonder does the normal looking traditional looking key deal use a theft lock plate perhaps? (Steering wheel lock)

I sure others will chime in here with ideas ….this certainly isn’t rocket science.

As fas as the rear lighting? Im thinking about going E-Trailer deal with the little two element led high output bulb and socket that you drill the tail light housing and install and then run a regular trailer harness thu the inside of the vehicle to the front and connect to the coach. Any thoughts on this?

Thank again for your input

[distaff]

The steering doesn't lock. As for the rest, follow the instructions.

[K7JV]

Yesterday, I received our 2018 FMCA Towing Guide, and happened to look at the Explorer. They now call for lifting the negative battery terminal for towing. Interesting. I wonder what changed.

But the bottom line is that I would follow the procedure described in the owners manual.

(That said, the owners manual for our '17 Acadia was published before it was completely vetted, and the instructions printed in it are actually incorrect. In fact there are conflicts due to carryovers from the previous model. The 2017 was a design change year. Presumably they have taken care of that, by now.)

[RobRoy]

Got to playing with this some more and finally noodled it out as to why the ignition switch has to be in the accessory position.


The deal is this: You can’t shut the ignition to the “OFF” position without the shifter in the park position ( yes you can shut engine off , but can’t shut the 12vdc power off until the shifter is in the Park position ) ….and You cannot pull the shifter out of the park position unless the ignition is in the “ ON” or in the “ Accessory ” position.

So this must be as to why I seen some post about shutting power down using a master shut off at the neg batter terminal.


Once home and I can access my wiring schematics I will look at the shift interlock wiring schematics and perhaps there is a simple work around so that you don’t have to keep connecting and disconnecting everything electrical in the vehicle via the battery terminal. Im sure that is the simplest way..just not so sure the safest way.


Ps: just for grins …..I just now googled “Ford Explorer Shift Interlock by pass” because vehicle recovery folks aka Wrecker Drivers need to be able to get these vehicles moved out of park and with no key in many cases to move them and most vehicles have a interlock by pass function feature as does the 5th gen 2011-17 Explorer as seen here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdkgdoOsbdk

Once in park ignition off release the interlock by pass put the vehicle in neutral and your home free.

FoMoCo does not want their customers messing or by passing the shift interlock and for good reason ...things like starting in gear and the likes.....waaaay to much liability.

This looks to me like a little ingenuity of fishing a hd plastic tie strap around the release cable up thu this the tray and your home free and now you dont even have to remove anything.

Shut the vehicle off release the interlock, put the vehicle in neutral and your on your way (that cable is not the shift cable it's only the interlock release,and it only controls the interlock release so that you can move the shifter when the ignition is in the off position )


Thanks to all that contributed.

[distaff]

Rob - it really isn't any different than the process for the keyed version I have. There is no steering interlock any more (hence the "put it in neutral" instructions), and leaving a good battery in "Acc" for towing isn't going to kill the battery if you are starting it every 6 hours and running it for 5 minutes. I'd be more inclined to run a charge wire from the motorhome if I were worried about it.

I don't think there is much payback to messing with the interlock, and I certainly wouldn't use a battery cut off if only because re-setting the clock is annoying.

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by distaff

Rob - it really isn't any different than the process for the keyed version I have. There is no steering interlock any more (hence the "put it in neutral" instructions), and leaving a good battery in "Acc" for towing isn't going to kill the battery if you are starting it every 6 hours and running it for 5 minutes. I'd be more inclined to run a charge wire from the motorhome if I were worried about it.

I don't think there is much payback to messing with the interlock, and I certainly wouldn't use a battery cut off if only because re-setting the clock is annoying.

I was recently told that the battery going dead is one of the reasons that Ford decided to go to the disconnect the battery policy while flat towing and was also told from reliable sources that they even had increased the res capacity on the OEM battery a few years later to try deal with the battery going dead complaints.

Lots of way to skin this cat. Originally my main concern with having the "key in he accessory position" was a possible steering issues and more than just a steering theft lock but also electric power steering control valve issue ( if equipped ) and that is not the case.

As you stated a battery charge wire from the coach would work just fine.

As would pushing a plastic tie strap @ an inch to release the shift interlock to put into neutral.


I don't like the battery disconnect as an option AT ALL ...too many modules being turned on and off in that process for me let alone the radio pre-sets again I have personally seen situations that they had to install new modules that would not wake back up after a simple battery replacement and have to re-program it ta boot.

Thanks again always enjoy everyones insights and perspectives.

Happy Trails

[flamebuster]

While towing my explorer it would start after the first 5-6 hr run but the second and third no such luck. Running the motor for 5 min. is not going to bring the batt. back up to a full charge. I would have to jump the ex. just to start it and run the engine apita. I finally wired in 12v. power wire from the motorhome to explorer to keep the batt. fully charged. Like the bypass idea it is a fast and simple and will not be noticeable..