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Old 03-22-2016, 09:57 PM   #15
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Thank you so much for this info.
We have the exact same meter as seen in the first post, and we are only running 30 amp on gen.
This explains alot!
Thank you again, very helpful.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:57 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by dmastroluca View Post
When I replaced mine last year, I marked each wire from the breakers and to the power sources, then took iPhone pictures of the labeled wires. I used a silver and a black sharpie to put the marks on the wires. Yanked out the old unit, and wired the new unit per the pictures. Everything fired right up.

1. Double check the dip switch settings to match your old unit.

2. Please remember to shut off ALL battery switches or disconnect battery cables so you don't get an accidental inverter/generator call while you are in there.
Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 03-28-2016, 05:26 PM   #17
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Mission Complete.

The kit arrive last week. I 2x checked all the part numbers as is habit. The kit is very nicely done. There are new butt connectors already attached and the pin connectors are fully assembled. Included were a new transducer and a common wire already stripped and ready to go. I left the old transducer and old common wire in place – saw no reason to go through a lot of extra work in order to change them out. The 3-pin power supply and genset signal wire get re-used and just plug right in to the new main board.

Then I laid out the parts so I could have a good understanding of the modifications I was about to make to my system.

All you are doing with the kit is swapping out the 2 boards (main processor and monitor). The boards talk to each other via an original cable that has 4 wires. The new boards require only 3 wires so you are going to abandon one wire in place. The only trick here is to make sure you connect color to same color via the new pin connector harnesses that are provided. Except for red, the colors of the harnesses do not match one-for-one those in the cable so you need to pay attention what color you splice to and do the same on the other end. The attached pix will make this clearer.

I made sure all shore power and all batteries were disconnected and took an "as-is" pic. I include that because some may not know where to find the main board.

Then I labeled all the breaker wires starting with #1 on the processor board at the top and worked down to position #8. See pic. I spliced in the new pin connectors.

The bezel around the monitor panel just pops off so you can get to the insert that goes in front of the panel: behind the insert are the screws that hold the monitor panel in place. The insert is where all the text is printed.

I peeled the tape off the old monitor board that had the loads printed on it and stuck it on the new panel in the same position as the old. Now the new panel looks exactly like the original panel as pictured in post #1 of this thread. I did this assuming that the new board’s defaults will operate the same way as the old one did. I have no idea why the blank ones are at the top but assume that Monaco knew what they were doing when they installed it this way.

Speaking of defaults: the included manual says the DIP switches are set at the factory to the most common installation so I left them that way. As the old board had jumpers, you can’t use the old board as a reference to set your new switches. I suppose you could read all the documentation and figure it all out, but being that the defaults are the most common, I went with them. If in the future the settings do not work as I would like, I’ll dig deeper into the documentation and figure it out then.

After rewiring all the breaker wires and 2x checking everything I skipped past the system pre-check in the installation guide. All looked OK and it was either going to work or not work.

I powered up and ran it through its paces. It works the same as the day I bought it. Thanks everyone for your insights and suggestions.

All in all, it is a simple repair and went better than expected. Looking at all the wires and circuit boards can be intimidating. Once I got past that it took only about an hour.
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:00 PM   #18
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Great job!

How about a photo of your new display powered up?

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:45 PM   #19
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Great job!

How about a photo of your new display powered up?

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Proudly... and a vid as well showing what happens as it comes online. Don't blame me for the ad. I think IRV2 did it which is OK by me for the service they provide us.
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:52 PM   #20
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Old 03-29-2016, 09:05 AM   #21
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Speaking of defaults: the included manual says the DIP switches are set at the factory to the most common installation so I left them that way.
If you look on page 5 of the manual it says:

"Dip-switch S4 determines if energy management is enabled when 120 VACGen-Set service is available. If S4 is in the “on” position, energy management will be disabled, but the Display Panel will still display total system current. If S4 is in the “OFF” position, energy management will be enabled and the current rating of the Gen-Set needs to be selected using dip-switch S5. With S5 set to the “ON” position, system current drawn from the generator will be limited to 45Amps. With S5 set to the “OFF” position, system current drawn from the generator will be limited to 60Amps."

If you leave S4 and S5 in the default ON position, you will not get any energy management while on generator, and only get 45 amps from your generator. Not sure what generator you have, but mine is a 7.5 KW with an output of 60 amps. I had to set dip switch 4 and 5 to OFF so I would get all the amps from my generator.

A good test would be to run your generator and fire up both HVAC units, electric water heater, inverter with loads, and run the microwave (with a bowl of water). If your EMS starts shedding loads at 45 amps, you have it set up wrong.
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Old 03-29-2016, 10:11 AM   #22
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Ok, I have to ask, where is dp switch 4 located?
I would like to check mine also.
Thank you, we have been on 30 amps a long time.
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Old 03-29-2016, 10:40 AM   #23
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where is dp switch 4 located?
On the EMS board in your breaker panel.
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Old 03-29-2016, 12:53 PM   #24
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If you look on page 5 of the manual it says:

"Dip-switch S4 determines if energy management is enabled when 120 VACGen-Set service is available. If S4 is in the “on” position, energy management will be disabled, but the Display Panel will still display total system current. If S4 is in the “OFF” position, energy management will be enabled and the current rating of the Gen-Set needs to be selected using dip-switch S5. With S5 set to the “ON” position, system current drawn from the generator will be limited to 45Amps. With S5 set to the “OFF” position, system current drawn from the generator will be limited to 60Amps."

Good catch - thanks.
.
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Old 03-29-2016, 09:23 PM   #25
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On the EMS board in your breaker panel.

Thank you very much!
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:32 PM   #26
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Quote:
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On the EMS board in your breaker panel.
I found that a dental pick worked great with which to move the switches.
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