AC Replace?

[SailDJ]

My front unit suddenly quit cooling although it still runs. I spoke to a repair place and was told that, "They usually won't hold of you recharge them and it is best to just replace the unit". Is this for real?

[Barlow46]

If it suddenly quit, then it may not be a freon leak as he is suggesting. Can you hear the compressor engage when you turn it on. Try turning on the fan first and then lower the thermostat to hear the compressor kick in. If it is not kicking in, you may have a start capacitor gone bad. You should have someone knowledgeable take a look at it and do at least a little listening and testing. If it is a freon leak and you have a closed system, then maybe it could be replaced for a few dollars more than trying to find someone to fix it. I would do some more checking first from another source. I am making the assumption that you are talking about your rooftop front unit and not you dash unit.

[TXiceman]

Check the amps on the unit and the capacitors to make sure the fan and compressor are running.

Next check your filter and make sure the evaporator coil is clean. 90% of the problems with RV A/C units is air flow issues due to plugged filters and dirty coils.

The refrigerant system is sealed and not easily rechargeable. The cost to leak check a unit, repair it and recharge it properly will generally run 1/2 the cost of a new unit or more.

Check the other things first and then decide if you want to spend a lot of money on a repair of put it toward a new unit with a warranty.

Ken

[SailDJ]

Oddly, the unit started working again after leaving it idle for a few days. I did clean the filter, which was needed, but did not appear that bad. I do kind of wonder if in combination with dirty coils, it may have been the problem.

It is the front roof top unit and now I would love to know how to access the coils to clean them.

Thanks very much for everyones input.

[wa8yxm]

It started working again......

I can think of two things that might cause this, ONE is a problem one is normal operation.

FREEZEUP.. If it happens again grab a flashlight, remove the filters and look up into the chamber above them If you see ICE (White) that's your problem.. Post for more info.

The other: Preception: How did you determine it was not cooling.. I have seen several posts this summer from folks complaining that their A/C is not working because the coach was not cooling (I've seen mine hit 85 with the A/C set on 72) and they are right.

But the fact is the A/C is working... The SUN, is simply working harder. Park in shade.

[Barlow46]

Check your indoor temperature difference to determine if you are in the ballpark for good cooling. Measure the air temperature inside the coach only. The outside temp/humidity determines how long the unit has to run to bring the inside temp down. This quote is from another website and I don't know it to be fact but it is very close. I look for at least an 18 degree split.

"Every roof A/C unit used in the RV industry uses the same performance standard: that being a 20*F temperature differential between the cooled air measured at the duct or outlet grill and the return air measured at the return air grill. Carrier used this same standard."

[texnet]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SailDJ It is the front roof top unit and now I would love to know how to access the coils to clean them.

Cleaning the coils is not hard. First, disconnect power to the coach and place the themostats in the off position. Climb on the roof and remove the 4 or more screws that hold the top cover on. Once removed you will see a set of coils. Use something like 409 or Simply Green and soak the coils with the cleaner, then after a few minutes use your water hose to spray off the dirt and cleaner. Make sure you do NOT use high pressure as you can easily bend the fins on the tubing which will decrease the cooling capacity of the unit. This should be done once per year just to keep your A/C in peak working condition.