Almost a FIRE from Rear Electrical Panel

[Just For Fun]

Originally Posted by K7JV

If I were to find this on my coach, I would first take a few Q-Tips and some alcohol and see how well I could "clean up" the socket on that 6-pin connector to determine if I could save the connector. Looking at your wire picture, I agree with SPDRACR. The origin of the heat appears to be the crimp connection. That is not a problem if you can find replacement parts and is easily repaired.

So are you saying that the "crimp connection" could/possible be the gremlin in my mix? Rather than a simple(/) electrical overload?

Originally Posted by K7JV

Your bedroom ceiling light circuit probably runs a dozen or so halogen puck lights. That doesn't add up to a 15 amp load, but it is a fair amount of current and could, over time, if the connection were to be a bit of a high resistance, cause what you see happening in your coach.

Are you saying that the original owner may have installed larger fuses then what the manufacturer installed?

Originally Posted by K7JV

It looks like the extreme heating was on your bedroom ceiling light terminal. It's hard to tell from your picture whether the wire you've pulled out is from the ceiling light circuit or from the hall light circuit next to it. But the burning does appear to be on the ceiling light terminal.

First of all, I would definitely NOT replace the Intellitec FET module. It is almost certainly not hurt, and it may be pretty pricey, as well. And the problem was not created by an excessive load, or the 15 amp fuse would have failed. The problem is from the poor connection and the ravages of time.

There is NOTHING inexpensive on this coach!!!!!

[QUOTE=K7JV;5092921]Ideally, I would try to find a replacement 6-pin connector with new terminals and "simply" replace the cable half of the connector. If I couldn't find a replacement, I would try the Q-Tip clean up, then try to salvage the terminal, cut back the burnt end of the wire, and then try to re-instal the terminal on the clean wire end, with a good solder connection. My only concern would be whether the "squeeze" of the connector had weakened from the heat which might result in some new heating where it attaches to the module, when the connector is in place. I don't really think that is going to be a problem, though.

Keep us posted. What you have looks ugly, but it really shouldn't be a terribly difficult thing to correct. The biggest issue will be either cleaning up and re-attaching what you have, or finding the 6-pin connector to replace what is there.[/QUOTE)

Most assuredly, I will update this thread once completed.

Originally Posted by K7JV

I'm impressed that you were able to pull the terminal out of the connector. That usually takes a small sleeve type tool to push in and compress the fingers to allow pulling it back. Most folks don't have one of those laying around. If you have that tool, you definitely have the skills to fix this thing on your own. You really could even just replace the terminal, itself, if you can find one.

I believe that that connector fell out as I pulled that plug.

Not really comfortable with the "Q-Tip" cleaning option. Seems risky for a repeat occurrence if I'm not complete. I'd love to save the cash. But...

[Just For Fun]

Originally Posted by hypoxia

There was a poor connection on the bedroom ceiling lights connection. https://www.intellitec.com/wp-conten...-00844-500.pdf You could do the repair if you have soldering equipment. It is not uncommon to see this damage and someone replaced that wire previously. Those connectors are available with a High Current pin, M&M can let you know if you need that.

What I would do; plug that connector back in, just leave the burned wire out of the plug until you get home. Send the module to M&M Electronics for repair. They will also be able to supply you with a new plug and crimp a wire onto a new pin which you can use a butt connector to connect to the Violet wire. They have the crimping equipment that you do not.

https://www.mmrvelectronics.com/

Enjoy the rest of your trip! Are you going to be at Q in a few weeks?

I'll check with M&M on Thursday.

Thanks

[Just For Fun]

Originally Posted by cavie

That is the bedroom ceiling lights 15 amp circuit. That's a lot of load for lighting but the living rope lighting is the same size. The right side of that plug must not have been plugged in tight.

If your good at this kinda stuff and cheap, you could remove the fuse, cut the wire from the plug, attach a wire to the main line 12 volt supply, install an inline fuse and your good to go and safe!

The alternative is buy a new panel. I would install an inline fuse.

You could do the same with the circuits on either side just to be safe. A 4 circuit buss bare fuse holder would work well for this fix.

I do like the idea of the in-line backup fuses. I'll check with the electrician.

Thanks

[Just For Fun]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

Just For Fun-

Can't answer your question #1, as this has not happened to me.

On question #2, if the part turns out to be an Intellitec 00-00844 module, here are links you may want:

Google search
PDXRVwholesale.com
RVPartsExpress.com
NWRVSupply.com
MMRVElectronics.com
An irRV2 post

A very cursory examination of the module shown in the links above says the ports are rated 10A each. The burned port on your module (BED CLNG, probably "bedroom ceiling" lights) has a 15A fuse. The LV CLG ROPE fuse is also 15A. The module in your coach could be different than the modules I link to above, and thus have a higher current rating. Also, I could be incorrect about all this.

The connector and pins are Amp/TE Connectivity Mate-N-Lok. I usually buy them through Allied Electronics (alliedelec.com), as they will sell small quantities, and their shipping costs are not high. You will want a decent crimp tool to make the repair.

I'll check these resources out.

Thanks

[hypoxia]

My diagram shows a 6X6 junction box in the slide plumbing chase and one under the stove on the floor. I have to run but will get back later.

[rmacdon61]

I find the connection from the purple wire to a white wire suspect? I can not see this being a factory connection. Also, the white wire part is aluminium wire, possibly being connected to copper wire? Always a great source for a heat problem. I'd get rid of the white alum. wire (use copper), solder a proper connection and a new stab connector.

[hypoxia]

2006 Wiring Diagram, look at page 151 https://www.monacoers.org/files/file...ring-diagrams/

Does the dinette have power? That is the key as to which direction to go.

[cavie]

The 15 amp fuses are factory. You can see it on the labels. The white to color connections are factory. You can not clean the connections with a q tip. Feed a fuse buss holder or 3 in line fuse holders.

[rmacdon61]

Originally Posted by cavie

The 15 amp fuses are factory. You can see it on the labels. The white to color connections are factory. You can not clean the connections with a q tip. Feed a fuse buss holder or 3 in line fuse holders.

Obviously the fuse amp markings are factory and if the white to purple are factory, the engineer should be shot. As a "master electrician" you should know mixing copper and aluminium wire is NOT a good plan. 15 amps in a motorhome is the same as 15 amps in a house and that 14 gauge aluminium wire is not heavy enough and if it is connected to copper, a serious mistake. Nothing else appears damaged so I'd suspect it is that white wire, replace it with 12 gauge copper and check for heat.
Pic of wire nuts joining copper and aluminium wire. A bad mistake.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by rmacdon61

Obviously the fuse amp markings are factory and if the white to purple are factory, the engineer should be shot. As a "master electrician" you should know mixing copper and aluminium wire is NOT a good plan. 15 amps in a motorhome is the same as 15 amps in a house and that 14 gauge aluminium wire is not heavy enough and if it is connected to copper, a serious mistake. Nothing else appears damaged so I'd suspect it is that white wire, replace it with 12 gauge copper and check for heat.
Pic of wire nuts joining copper and aluminium wire. A bad mistake.

1st, I have never heard of reference of AL wire being installed in an RV. If there was it would be #12 not #14 for a 15 amp circuit.. AL is always 1 ga bigger for the equivalent CU wire.

They do in deed make wire nuts especially for joining AL/CU. That's how we repair houses wired in AL that the insurance companies will not longer insure. The butt splice connectors shown in the picture are just fine for the copper wires in the RV.

ALL engineers should be shot!! but not for this reason. The wires we are talking about are 12 volts not 120. There is no color code system for 12 volts. It's what ever the installer makes it. That is why you see black and white on RV batteries. That is why you see Red and Black on RV batteries.

The white wires are just fine. Did you know it is permissible for me to wire a 3/w switch in a 120 volt circuit and make the white wire hot?? Did you know it is also permissible to change the color of the wire in the middle of the a circuit?

The burned contacts cannot be cleaned the must be replaced.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-Twist...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[K7JV]

Sorry. Been in an unusable Internet area. You've gotten a lot of advice on that connector. I won't offer any more.

Let's return to the reason for your post. I'm attaching the 110 VAC distribution drawing that should be applicable to your coach. I didn't see where you've said whether you found the problem there, or not. But the second breaker down on the inverter fed panel should be the one that feeds those outlets.

As to whether the generator operation had anything to do with it, that's not likely, if that outlet circuit is the only thing not working for you.

The inverter is a potential player. But remember that the inverter works differently when "shore power", including the generator, is available. When shore power is available, it merely passes that power thru the inverter to the second breaker panel without doing anything other than closing some contacts to make it just pass thru it. Other than that, it isn't in the picture. It is, however, producing 12 VDC to charge your batteries and serve all of your DC loads in your coach.

When "shore power" is not available, the inverter changes its mode of operation to converting DC to 110 VAC and delivering that AC voltage to the second breaker panel, only. In that mode, your first breaker panel is "dead", until shore power again becomes available.

I don't know if this helps, but hopefully the drawing will give you some useful information.

[HJLowell]

Originally Posted by rmacdon61

I find the connection from the purple wire to a white wire suspect? I can not see this being a factory connection. Also, the white wire part is aluminium wire, possibly being connected to copper wire? Always a great source for a heat problem. I'd get rid of the white alum. wire (use copper), solder a proper connection and a new stab connector.

I agree
Simple safe fix.

[Just For Fun]

Originally Posted by rmacdon61

I find the connection from the purple wire to a white wire suspect? I can not see this being a factory connection. Also, the white wire part is aluminium wire, possibly being connected to copper wire? Always a great source for a heat problem. I'd get rid of the white alum. wire (use copper), solder a proper connection and a new stab connector.

Agreed!!

[Just For Fun]

Originally Posted by hypoxia

2006 Wiring Diagram, look at page 151 https://www.monacoers.org/files/file...ring-diagrams/

Does the dinette have power? That is the key as to which direction to go.

Upon using your link I received: We could not locate the item you are trying to view.

All of the electrical outlets in the kitchen and dinette areas out not functioning. Also, the electric spark (auto start) on the LP range doesn't work now.