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Old 11-12-2014, 04:31 AM   #15
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If you are handy with tools you can rebuilt it yourself. A simple bearing puller and maybe a soldering gun.

Just to add a suggestion here per my manual and experience. If you have batteries that need a good fill up then the generator should be running while driving. The alternator is really not designed for heavy currents over a long period of time.

Before tossing the alternator make sure the field wire is getting power and as suggested clean and tighten the wires from it.
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:42 AM   #16
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I own a 2002 Windsor, alternator failed last year. I removed it and took it to a local rebuild shop that specialized in truck & heavy equipment alternators. Rebuild cost was $180.

The shop owner said that it was very difficult to get pulley off of the alternator.

Unless you can find a direct replacement based on your model number I would be hesitant to order. You can contact Leece Neville direct and they can provide suppliers who may have one.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:40 AM   #17
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Two things:
First: Alternator rebuilders are way cheaper than even a "Rebuilt" from an auto parts store.. Since you get your own alternator back you know it will fit.. Most alternator issues are easily fixed. 1.2: Might not be the alternator, might be the belt that turns it.

Second: Jamming a piece of paper under the boost switch not the best solution, Jumper cable way better solution You need one about a foot long with clamps to attach to the two big lugs on the isolator, or a jumper wire in some cases on your Battery control Center. This way you do not burn out the boost solenoid which might not like being engaged for long periods.

OR: if your coach has a Bidirectional Isolator Relay Device (BIRD) just crank up the alternate electrical power source (Generator) and let the house converter charge the chassis battery.
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Old 11-12-2014, 01:15 PM   #18
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How do you know you have a bad alternator? My alternator quit and it was just a bad wire at the alternator. If you are not into checking your self get a good mechanic to diagnose before just a rebuild. Second if need rebuild your own as apposed to getting a parts store rebuild. Just some ideas.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:33 PM   #19
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tricotec - If I'm not too late, maybe I can help. We had the same happen to us (same engine too), and coincidentally in N Florida too (Bermuda Triangle, US region?).

Anyways, we limped into Casey Jones RV Park just outside Lake City on I-75 (just south of the I-10 interchange). After frantic calls to Monaco and other on-line places to get an alternator overnited to me, I happened to see the big Tom Nehl heavy-truck sign right next door.

I went to see them about installing the new alternator coming to me, and he asked what it was for/on. Told him and he said he had them in-stock and would take less than an hour for install, total price less than $300. In less time than it took for my second cup of coffee to get cold, we were out of there and back on the road.

Dunno if you're anywhere near there, but I'd suggest a big-truck place like them if you can find one.

Oh, and it turned out to be the internal diode-stack. I keep the old repaired alternator with me "just in case".

Hope this helps!
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:06 PM   #20
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tricotec - If I'm not too late, maybe I can help. We had the same happen to us (same engine too), and coincidentally in N Florida too (Bermuda Triangle, US region?).

Anyways, we limped into Casey Jones RV Park just outside Lake City on I-75 (just south of the I-10 interchange). After frantic calls to Monaco and other on-line places to get an alternator overnited to me, I happened to see the big Tom Nehl heavy-truck sign right next door.

I went to see them about installing the new alternator coming to me, and he asked what it was for/on. Told him and he said he had them in-stock and would take less than an hour for install, total price less than $300. In less time than it took for my second cup of coffee to get cold, we were out of there and back on the road.

Dunno if you're anywhere near there, but I'd suggest a big-truck place like them if you can find one.

Oh, and it turned out to be the internal diode-stack. I keep the old repaired alternator with me "just in case".

Hope this helps!
Great advice. I'm in St Pete, so I'll try in the Tampa area first, but Lake City is on the way out of the state if I can't find one.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:11 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Two things:
First: Alternator rebuilders are way cheaper than even a "Rebuilt" from an auto parts store.. Since you get your own alternator back you know it will fit.. Most alternator issues are easily fixed. 1.2: Might not be the alternator, might be the belt that turns it.

Second: Jamming a piece of paper under the boost switch not the best solution, Jumper cable way better solution You need one about a foot long with clamps to attach to the two big lugs on the isolator, or a jumper wire in some cases on your Battery control Center. This way you do not burn out the boost solenoid which might not like being engaged for long periods.

OR: if your coach has a Bidirectional Isolator Relay Device (BIRD) just crank up the alternate electrical power source (Generator) and let the house converter charge the chassis battery.
My coach does not charge the chassis batteries from the generator normally. The boost switch does cross-connect the two systems and I can now testify that the generator and inverter will keep both batteries topped off.

Jamming the boost switch, in the case of my coach, is not doing anything the coach doesn't normally do on it's own when the alternator is working. On my coach the chassis batteries charge first, then when they are topped off, the boost solenoid closes automatically to keep the house batteries topped off and supply any house loads from the inverter (like my residential fridge). So my "boost solenoid" or big boy relay is normally on most of the time on the road. Nice to know the coach has some redundancy built in. I went all the way from NJ to Tampa FL with no alternator!
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:30 PM   #22
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The issue with jamming the boost switch isn't the path the electricity takes, it's with the boost relay itself. Many of those relays are designed for temporary duty only - like long enough to provide an assist when starting the generator or main engine. Left "on" for extended periods of time, the "temporary" rated relay can overheat and burn out, leaving you with double trouble.

The jumper is a great plan, but in a pinch, another option might be to move the wires from each side of the relay to one side, effectively doing the same as the jammed switch and the jumper. Stud too short for the wires to be moved to one side? Pull both sides and run a bolt through the whole bunch - just make sure it can't short itself out on something. We're in enough trouble here already....
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:53 PM   #23
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On our coach there is one solonoid to connect the batteries so the boost switch can be engaged all day long. So either your info is wrong or only pertains to some coach models.
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:05 PM   #24
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Been about 5 yrs sence I was in the business but we used to buy 160 alt at Freightliner or Peterbilt for less than $150. Try your local truck shop
That's what Pacific Detroit Diesel tried to tell me too, until I bought one, took it home and tried to hook it up. That's when I found out they were wrong and I had to order the correct, $450 one!
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:33 PM   #25
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On our coach there is one solonoid to connect the batteries so the boost switch can be engaged all day long. So either your info is wrong or only pertains to some coach models.
Please forgive me. I was speaking of a generic coach? (many of those relays)
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:59 PM   #26
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if you are around lakeland FL plant city really there is a RV you pull it junk yard there

75% they have it

i would have to look it up so if you need info email me .. but thats if you are next to it
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:03 PM   #27
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Please forgive me. I was speaking of a generic coach? (many of those relays)
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:50 AM   #28
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if you are around lakeland FL plant city really there is a RV you pull it junk yard there

75% they have it

i would have to look it up so if you need info email me .. but thats if you are next to it

I live near there and would be interested in the name of the place please.
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