Community Forums

Jeff753 · 06-24-2017, 07:49 AM

I thought I read on here of a place by Elkhart that rebuilds the leece 200 amp alternator but can't find it now? Any recommendations?

BFlinn181 · 06-24-2017, 11:32 AM

Many places listed, start calling.

https://www.google.com/search?num=10...k1.MV_60L44wbE

jacwjames · 06-24-2017, 07:53 PM

In most larger cities there are rebuild shops. Call some larger truck repair shops and they will give you some leads.

My alternator went out, contacted the purchasing department of where I use to work and they told me where they sent starters and alternators. Took my alternator there and they rebuilt it in a 24 hr turn around. Had all the necessary parts in stock. Cost $185.

Twomed · 06-24-2017, 08:02 PM

(574) 293-2196 · 929 S Main St Elkhart, IN 46516 ... Elkhart Starter & Alternator Exchange

Been there since I was in high school in the '60s. Great shop. They did mine a couple of years back.

veraken · 06-25-2017, 06:29 AM

Recently replaced my alternator. Mine was a Leece Neville 2824LC. You can shop around. I found the best price at Quality Power High Output Alternators & High Torque Starters (High Output Alternators & High Torque Starters). I decided to replace my 160 amp Leece Neville with a 200 amp Delco Remy 28SI. I purchased one with a pully. I had my old LN rebuilt and carry it as a spare. The last thing I wanted was to be stuck on the road without a replacement. Make sure you disconnect batteries and power to the coach before doing any work. The install was fairly simple except on the DR you don't connect the excite wire since it is self exciting. You might want to consider replacing your belts at the same time.

Jeff753 · 06-26-2017, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twomed

(574) 293-2196 · 929 S Main St Elkhart, IN 46516 ... Elkhart Starter & Alternator Exchange

Been there since I was in high school in the '60s. Great shop. They did mine a couple of years back.

Cool. Will check them out. Thank you

Jeff753 · 07-17-2017, 08:13 AM

Is there a reason to rebuild a 200amp leece alternator that's 15 years old if it's working iksy

Hartman2112 · 07-17-2017, 08:26 AM

I wouldn't. Even if it fails on the road you shouldn't be stranded.

BFlinn181 · 07-17-2017, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff753

Is there a reason to rebuild a 200amp leece alternator that's 15 years old if it's working iksy

Rebuilding due to age isn't necessary. If it's still working as it should, I'd use a mechanic's stethoscope to listen if the bearings are still quiet. If the alternator stops putting out power, then you could run the generator until you find a place to do the work. If the bearings go out, then you might have a bigger problem. If the alternator was the only thing on that belt, fine, remove the belt and keep driving. But, if the belt also powers the water pump, power steering, etc., then you'd be stuck.

Jeff753 · 08-29-2017, 12:54 PM

If my tach is suddenly 800-1000 RPMs high would that be a failing alternator?

Vanwill · 08-30-2017, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff753

If my tach is suddenly 800-1000 RPMs high would that be a failing alternator?

Jeff, your engine is an electronic controlled injection one (ISC or ISL), and I don't think your tach gets its signal from the alternator, although it's possible. But in another post you said your engine was actually idling at higher than normal speed (NOT just a high reading on the tach), and that prevented the Allison from shifting correctly. I'm having a similar, intermittent problem. The Allison and the ISC/ISL have tach input AND output signals from their respective Control Modules. If your tach was only READING incorrectly, that would not stop the Allison from shifting properly.

If your engine is indeed idling at too high a speed, and you find the problem, let me know. I'm still chasing my problem.

Jeff753 · 08-30-2017, 04:51 PM

To clarify my tach was reading high not actually running fast. Sorry about that. Turns out I had a bad connection at the back of the tach body.
I tend to agree with you that grey wire is the voltage regulator maybe? I think it's called Sense

Sounds like yours is actually idling fast?

I don't think the tach problem was related to stuck in first either. I replaced the Allison output speed sensor but it ohmed out correctly so I don't think that had me stuck in first. It started shifting normally but I replaced the output sensor on the Allison anyway. I'm suspect of the engine speed sensor which is supposed to be hard to get to. If I can find the ohm value of it I might be able to check it at the pigtail connection if it acts up again.

Maybe your idle toggle is stuck? I don't know.

Vanwill · 08-30-2017, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff753

To clarify my tach was reading high not actually running fast. Sorry about that. Turns out I had a bad connection at the back of the tach body.
I tend to agree with you that grey wire is the voltage regulator maybe? I think it's called Sense

Sounds like yours is actually idling fast?

I don't think the tach problem was related to stuck in first either. I replaced the Allison output speed sensor but it ohmed out correctly so I don't think that had me stuck in first. It started shifting normally but I replaced the output sensor on the Allison anyway. I'm suspect of the engine speed sensor which is supposed to be hard to get to. If I can find the ohm value of it I might be able to check it at the pigtail connection if it acts up again.

Maybe your idle toggle is stuck? I don't know.

Just plugging/inplugging your Allison connectors may have solved your problem. SO MANY electrical/electronic problems on these coaches are just bad connections.

Jeff753 · 08-30-2017, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vanwill

Just plugging/inplugging your Allison connectors may have solved your problem. SO MANY electrical/electronic problems on these coaches are just bad connections.

Good point...but after I did that it still stuck until I drove it about 1/4 mile. If it never does it again I'll be happy. No fun driving it 1st to a shop:(