Community Forums

dpj1959 · 01-06-2018, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Excel-in

Neat! How does the new system handle auto switch-over? Does it auto switch when you use turn signal and put in reverse?

Just ordered it and it will be delivered in a week. It has 5 camera hook up capability and up to a continuous 4 camera screen shot. The harness comes with the trigger leads that put blinkers and reverse full screen when activated. Really looking forward to the options for stereos this gives me and I really like having a camera on the toad at all times. Critter mentioned Alpine and doing the research leads me in that direction...Back to the cameras, A friend had a car come up beside him honking and let him know he was dragging his Yamaha scooter by the chain behind his coach so a camera on my jeep is huge IMO. With the trailer hook up, I may put a camera on the back of the Jeep as well. Looking forward to February.

RETRO · 01-07-2018, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HerbieHauler

The Base of the Key Pad is square, In fact it is alittle larger then the hole. That's why I had to shave some of the fiberglass off to get it to fit. If you go to you tube and scroll RV Lock Installation, You can see RVers who installed the lock and that may help you understand how it will look on an RV door.

Excellent, ordered mine Fri with extra keys and remote, can’t wait to install, thanks for all the info !!

HerbieHauler · 01-08-2018, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETRO

Excellent, ordered mine Fri with extra keys and remote, can’t wait to install, thanks for all the info !!

I wish you well, Just remember that you will probable have to shave some of the fiberglass away towards the front of the door and the bottom of the lock hole. You will also have to adjust the two guide arm by screwing them out a little. That can be a little bit of a pain because they use liquid thread lock on them at the factory. When its all said and done, no worries about being locked out of your rig. you will have the ability to use either the key, key fob, or key pad to get in.

vestadan · 01-22-2018, 07:37 AM

Hi Team,

Installing an electric trailer brake controller. Does anyone know if the Vesta has a standard connector under the dash to connect the brake controller to?

Thanks
Dan

dpj1959 · 01-23-2018, 12:06 PM

Have a question and am looking for expertise or someone who has experienced this problem.

Fog lamps will not cut off when the high beams are activated. When you start the MH and all the dash lights fire up, the high beam indicator light shows up so I know the dash is okay, but when you put the high beams on, they do come on but the fogs do not turn off and there is no high beam indicator on the dash.

I replaced the relays for the Fogs, the high beams and even the low beams but to no avail and am wondering if anyone else has had this problem. My fear is it is in the steering column at the indicator handle and wanted to reach out before taking it out for someone to spend eternity tracing wires. I did have a car dealer mechanic take a look at it and he could not find anything but I think it was above his expertise. Thanks in advance

David
Va Beach VA

vestadan · 01-27-2018, 03:06 PM

Hi Team,

I am totally baffled on how to remove the doghouse to access the the top of the engine. I would be most grateful is anyone had any pointers on how to remove the doghouse.

Thanks
Dan

JamesJDion · 01-27-2018, 04:41 PM

Dan,

There is one screw that holds the dog house in place.
The screw is located in the middle next to the floor and could be hidden a little by the carpet. Find the middle between the two coffee cup holders and then go straight down to the floor. Use a regular blade screwdriver. Once the screw is removed just give it a good pull.

imbutafool · 01-29-2018, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesJDion

Dan,

There is one screw that holds the dog house in place.
The screw is located in the middle next to the floor and could be hidden a little by the carpet. Find the middle between the two coffee cup holders and then go straight down to the floor. Use a regular blade screwdriver. Once the screw is removed just give it a good pull.

There are also 2 screws hidden under each drink holder. You have to remove the drinks holder inserts to get to them.

vestadan · 01-29-2018, 07:44 AM

Thanks Team, got it off without a hitch.

I redid the heat/sound proofing in the doghouse with 2 layers of Dynamat Extreme and a layer of Dynamat Hoodliner. The Dynamat did a nice job of further quieting down the noise from the doghouse.

As part of the project, I am also doing a similar Dynamat job behind the dash. I have yet to reinstall the dash so not sure how much it affects noise.

dpj1959 · 01-29-2018, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Excel-in

Thanks Team, got it off without a hitch.

I redid the heat/sound proofing in the doghouse with 2 layers of Dynamat Extreme and a layer of Dynamat Hoodliner. The Dynamat did a nice job of further quieting down the noise from the doghouse.

As part of the project, I am also doing a similar Dynamat job behind the dash. I have yet to reinstall the dash so not sure how much it affects noise.

I got my heat shield material and plan on getting to it in a couple weeks.

Hermbike · 01-30-2018, 11:45 AM

Since we have downsized to a Sprinter sized RV I have several items that I had on the Trip that aren't useful anymore and I'm putting for sale. This includes the following; Intervac central vac, Nvision Tire Monitoring with booster, Airforce One supplemental brake system for the toad for use with air brakes. You would need the part of the system that includes the tank etc that goes on the coach. I also have a 2011 GMC Terraine SLT loaded with a Blue OX baseplate for sale. If you are interested in any of these items please email me @ Hermbike@aol.com. I'm located in Vero Beach FL if your located in FL.
Jim Herman
PS I miss my Trip

RETRO · 01-30-2018, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HerbieHauler

I wish you well, Just remember that you will probable have to shave some of the fiberglass away towards the front of the door and the bottom of the lock hole. You will also have to adjust the two guide arm by screwing them out a little. That can be a little bit of a pain because they use liquid thread lock on them at the factory. When its all said and done, no worries about being locked out of your rig. you will have the ability to use either the key, key fob, or key pad to get in.

Finally got around to installing that new lock, the door install went well but the striker plate on the door frame is impossible to replace with the new one and the old one (looks identical to the new one) does not allow the lock to close all the way, the dead bolt will engage but only if I lean on the door holding it closed and the open handle is loose as if the door isn’t closing all the way. I’m thinking I’ll have to make some adjustment using my Darmel tool, Any suggestions?

vestadan · 01-31-2018, 05:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hermbike

Since we have downsized to a Sprinter sized RV I have several items that I had on the Trip that aren't useful anymore and I'm putting for sale. This includes the following; Intervac central vac, Nvision Tire Monitoring with booster, Airforce One supplemental brake system for the toad for use with air brakes. You would need the part of the system that includes the tank etc that goes on the coach. I also have a 2011 GMC Terraine SLT loaded with a Blue OX baseplate for sale. If you are interested in any of these items please email me @ Hermbike@aol.com. I'm located in Vero Beach FL if your located in FL.
Jim Herman
PS I miss my Trip

So glad to see you still frequent this thread. As you have had your sprinter for a while, could you give us your thoughts on the pros and cons of the sprinter versus the Trip/Vesta?

Love the pict of your Lab....so miss our yellow lab.....wo did she love to RV...

HerbieHauler · 01-31-2018, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETRO

Finally got around to installing that new lock, the door install went well but the striker plate on the door frame is impossible to replace with the new one and the old one (looks identical to the new one) does not allow the lock to close all the way, the dead bolt will engage but only if I lean on the door holding it closed and the open handle is loose as if the door isn’t closing all the way. I’m thinking I’ll have to make some adjustment using my Darmel tool, Any suggestions?

Hi Retro,
I had some minor problems at first with the door plate but I actually used a little correctional fluid and put it on the dead bolt and lock, Closed the door, engaged the lock and look at where the white mark was left on the plate. Then I removed the screws on the plate and repositioned it in the direction that the dead bolt touched. It took a little work but I managed to get it right. One thing I noticed is that the OEM door plate is a little thicker then the one that came with the RV lock. Also the OEM door plate seems to extend length wise into the door jam. I don't know if that has anything to do with it but let me know how you make out. Mines seems to be functioning well.