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Old 01-02-2016, 05:01 AM   #1
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Aqua hot blowing cold zone 2

our aqua hot blows only cold air in zone 2. Any suggestions on where to start looking for problem?
Thank you!
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:29 AM   #2
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Most likely the one way flapper valve in zone two has stuck in the closed position. They are located just above the pumps on the Aqua Hot boiler. It is a common fault. All you have to do is feel the outlet pipes above the valves and find which one has a cold pipe and tap the valve with a hammer. Replacing the valve will not fix the problem because the new one will stick again sooner or later. Sometimes it is caused by having a too concentrated boiler fluid. It needs to be 50/50.
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Old 01-02-2016, 07:05 AM   #3
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Mike is right on. That works, most of the time. On our '06 Dynasty, we had a different problem with precisely the same symptoms you are experiencing. It turned out that the pump for zone 2 had "failed".

Turn your thermostat off for a few seconds (to let the pump motor stop spinning), and back on and see if it starts working again. Ours did. Every time! Almost! It happened rarely, then more often, then more often, and finally it got to where most nights it would fail to work during the night. I tried what Mike suggested, and it didn't work, but I kept thinking I wasn't hitting it with the right "touch".

Anyway, each time I would shut off the thermostat for several seconds and then turn it back on, it would work. It got to where it maybe took a couple of tries. If you can, go out to the AquaHot and get as close to it as you can. Removing the top half of the cover is best, but not required. Listen to the zone 2 pump run when it's not working (blowing cold air). Have someone turn the thermostat off for four or five seconds, and then back on. See if it sounds different.

Those pumps are sealed. The motor is in one half and the pump is in the other. The coupling is magnetic, only. There's no shaft through the wall of the pump. As the pump ages, it can suffer from the same contamination causes as the flapper (check) valves. When the pump does "catch", it runs at a somewhat lower RPM than it does when the magnetic coupling fails to catch. If you do that, and you hear the difference in the RPM of the pump, it is highly likely that is the problem.

It's probably what Mike is suggesting, but if it isn't that, this is your next place to look. I was able to get a replacement pump, although it looks a little different and mounts a little different, with a Dremel to grind off the attachments for the old and a drill to make a way to mount the new, I was able to install the new one where the old one was, and it works awesomely!!! Just get a couple of cheap needle nose Vise Grips to clamp off the hoses when you remove it. I didn't have to drain the unit at all. I might have lost ¼ cup of coolant, if that. Yay! Sometimes we win!
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Old 01-02-2016, 07:09 AM   #4
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It was our zone 2 pump, too. That's the one that has far more hours on it than any of the other three. It probably lasted an accumulative 4 years of full time coach occupancy. (We've been in and using our coach over 40% of the time since new, so it gets quite a bit of use.) Note too, that is the "stir" pump that operates whenever the burner is operating to keep from having hot spots inside the tank, next to the burner can. So it is really important that this pump be operational, particularly if you are burning diesel in your unit.
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