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RustyTools · 01-06-2018, 06:15 AM

Got a chance to try out the furnace in our 'new' Camelot, and have a question about its operation...

Right now, I'm using the electric element, and it works fine at heating water, and also works fine as a furnace (much quieter than the heat-pumps). However, when in furnace-mode, it will cut off whenever anyone uses hot-water, but never kicks back to furnace mode.

The manual states that is normal because it's giving priority to heating the water, but doesn't say if it should switch back to furnace when the water is shut-off again (which I would think it should).

It's a 450-DE1, and has the little 'ELECTRIC HEATING ELEMENT STATUS' and 'HEATING STATUS' as well as 'LOW TEMP CUTOFF STATUS' lamps lit on the panel. The first two I can understand, but the 'LOW TEMP' one isn't fully described in the manual.

Is that my problem, that it's sensing the water is too cool and won't go into furnace mode again til it heats up again?

BTW, I'm on electric because the diesel mode puts out lots of smoke - which I take to mean that I need to replace the orifice (just one more job on the list

)

Scottybdivin · 01-06-2018, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyTools

Got a chance to try out the furnace in our 'new' Camelot, and have a question about its operation...

Right now, I'm using the electric element, and it works fine at heating water, and also works fine as a furnace (much quieter than the heat-pumps). However, when in furnace-mode, it will cut off whenever anyone uses hot-water, but never kicks back to furnace mode.

The manual states that is normal because it's giving priority to heating the water, but doesn't say if it should switch back to furnace when the water is shut-off again (which I would think it should).

It's a 450-DE1, and has the little 'ELECTRIC HEATING ELEMENT STATUS' and 'HEATING STATUS' as well as 'LOW TEMP CUTOFF STATUS' lamps lit on the panel. The first two I can understand, but the 'LOW TEMP' one isn't fully described in the manual.

Is that my problem, that it's sensing the water is too cool and won't go into furnace mode til it heats up again?

BTW, I'm on electric because the diesel mode puts out lots of smoke - which I take to mean that I need to replace the orifice (just one more job on the list

)

You probably are exceeding the electric heating element's capabilities. On my Hydro-hot 450, the electric element is too small for high demand for hot water or heating. You must turn on the diesel burner. The heat will temporarily shut off during hot water usage, but will come back on pretty quickly.

It does sound like you need to service. You can buy the orifices and fuel filters from RV Hydronic Heater Parts

RustyTools · 01-06-2018, 07:01 AM

Thanks, Scotty. That pretty-much answers my question about whether it was supposed to automatically kick back on or not. First time with an AquaHot (always had separate heater & furnace units before) and I'm learning as I go.

And thanks for the parts link. Gotta get that done - right now it's like fogging for mosquitos.

Captjake1 · 01-06-2018, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyTools

Thanks, Scotty. That pretty-much answers my question about whether it was supposed to automatically kick back on or not. First time with an AquaHot (always had separate heater & furnace units before) and I'm learning as I go.

And thanks for the parts link. Gotta get that done - right now it's like fogging for mosquitos.

On ekectric, it should kick back on after it has tine to reheat.
If it is below about 50, the electric doesn't put out enough heat and you need the diesel burner on.
Try the nozzle first. If it is still smoky, you might need yo send it out to be rebuilt. Mine smoked terribly. Sent it to Roger Burke and he found the fuel pressure too high. As they wear, the pressure rises.

vito.a · 01-08-2018, 09:06 PM

Change the nozzle and the filter (usually located above the fuel tank).
When you change the filter put some Lucas fuel additive in it. When you fire up the Aqua Hot it will flow through it and help clean everything out.

RustyTools · 01-09-2018, 05:35 AM

Thansk guys. New nozzle/etc is now on the ever-growing list.

Chargerman · 01-10-2018, 05:24 PM

Usually when they smoke it is not an orifice issue. More likely caused by restricted air intake. Look at the air inlet on the bottom of the burner. Many times the pick of hose that is attached collapses. If you have a hose on it remove it and leave it off as it is not needed. I was told to leave it off by Aquahot service. If it still smokes look up at the intake from under the coach. It is an adjustable opening. It is. Has been adjusted to less than 1/2 of an opening you may want to try loosening the lock screw and opening the intake a little bit at a time to see if you can minimize the smoking. If you make an adjustment be sure. To restart it a few times to make sure it consistently lights. Ideally you will want a certified shop to measure the exhaust gas to assure proper adjustment

Good luck.

Mr_D · 01-10-2018, 05:36 PM

Umm...
If an orifice wears (gets larger) the pressure will go down and the flow will go up, leading to a rich condition and causing more black smoke.

Chargerman · 01-10-2018, 05:38 PM

Yes that is correct for sure also and that is also possible. I should have clarified that. Thanks.

clyon51 · 01-10-2018, 06:53 PM

My experience has been keep the soot cleared out of the burner/exhaust. Then the flame sensor, keep any soot off of it so the system can ‘see’ a flame’. Ignitor Coil is usually a last resort. Replacing the fuel filter should be an annual event.

vito.a · 01-11-2018, 09:12 AM

When I first ran our Aqua Hot it smoked so bad it covered the park electric meter in black soot. The park maintenance man asked me to "fix it".
I changed the filter and the nozzle as well as cleaned everything. I also added Lucas fuel treatment to the new filter. It now burns without any smoke at all.

Dupdyke · 01-11-2018, 11:44 AM

We just had jack in the valley service a foretravel and monaco ah units, Fuel filters were fun to get to but he did full service and said they looked great but they are quieter and no black or white smoke or smell so life is good. All three zones had over 88 output so let it get cold I dont have to depend on the 110 volt side.

clyon51 · 01-11-2018, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_D

Umm...
If an orifice wears (gets larger) the pressure will go down and the flow will go up, leading to a rich condition and causing more black smoke.

Hey Mr_D.

I certainly agree with your statement and the end results of those conditions. Just curious if there is any data that says the flow and pressure of the fuel will actually eat the brass away and open the nozzle hole?

Chargerman · 01-12-2018, 05:45 AM

Nozzles will wear larger in any oil burner since oil,water and other liquids have abrasive like properties at higher pressures. Over time they will enlarge the orifice. This is the reason that replacing them should be a part of the annual maintenance list.