Are you a 93-96 Navigator owner?

[jaytho]

OK- My passenger side mirror didn't work side to side.

So I looked, and it was packed full of nests. I decided to de-dauber my side mirrors, good grief they were packed with spiders, daubers, and paper wasps. So I pulled it appart to clean it out, and it looks like the motor/gears are toast.

Any sources for a replacement mirror?

THANKS!

--JT

[RUNDLC]

Contact Velvac they still have mirrors and parts. My mirror on pass side
acts like that.

[vtwinwilly]

Just stumbled accross this thread and added it to my subscription list. I have a 1993 HR Navigator and have learned many things about it the hard way.

Hopefully I'll be able to contribute and better yet... learn a few things along the way.

So let me post my first question. My "Aux Start" button on the dash appears to do nothing. I downloaded some electrical diagrams of a '94 Navigator from a Yahoo Groups site that show me that the "Aux Start" is connected to a violet wire that sends power to a couple of relays in an electrical box next to the house battery compartment in the rear. The relays are there, but no voilet wire is connected to them. There are 2 voilet wires going into this electrical box, but neither one energizes when the "Aux Button" is pushed, and neither is connected to anything. BTW... If I take a jumper and energize the relay(s) I get the same effect as the "Aux Start" button being pushed. (ie.e, the relays close and house power and chassis power are on a combined circuit.)

So my question... Is there another relay that I should be looking for somewhere else? ... or can someone else with a 93 take a picture of the way their relay(s) are connected so I can confirm how it should be hooked up?

Thanks in advance for any help.

[rsha]

When you say the aux start does nothing, what does that mean? When the aux start is pressed it allows the preheat and starter motor to be powered from the coach battery. To do this the aux start has to be pushed at the same time the start cycle begins, ie, preheat and engine crank. Pressing aux start a lone does nothing detectable.

[vtwinwilly]

Originally Posted by rsha

When you say the aux start does nothing, what does that mean? When the aux start is pressed it allows the preheat and starter motor to be powered from the coach battery. To do this the aux start has to be pushed at the same time the start cycle begins, ie, preheat and engine crank. Pressing aux start a lone does nothing detectable.

I'm pretty sure i've tried the combination you described. On my last motorhome (not this one), when I pressed the Aux Start button a relay would close and complete a circuit between the house batteries and the chassis battery. Even if the chassis battery was stone cold dead, I could push the Aux Start and immediately all the chassis electronics (buzzers, dash light indicators, radio, etc.) would come to life... And I could start the coach. I mention this because it sets my expectation.

On my Navigator, if the chassis battery is stone cold dead, ignition is in the on position. I press Aux Start and nothing happens. Buzzers still dead, no dash indicator lights, and no radio.

I have removed the Aux Start switch and checked that it is functioning. It is. It has 12v power coming into one terminal, and pressing the switch energizes the other terminal sending 12v power down a violet wire to somewhere. I just can't figure out where. ...but at least my 94 wiring diagram has the color right.

I am starting to suspect that this was never connected, and if I dig around in the electrical box behind the house battery compartment I might actual find the other end of the violet wire. I did do quite a bit of digging so already, but stopped short of cutting the wire ties and spreading the wires out to see them better.

There's also the possibility that the Aux Start energizes a different relay hiding some place else on the coach. This would be inconsistent with the 94 wiring diagram, but my unit is a 93 so maybe some changes were made.

[vtwinwilly]

I thought it might help If I posted the wiring diagram I keep referring to.

My 93 is wired exactly like this except for 2 things. The first one is not pertinent. I don't have a solar panel on the roof so while shown in the diagram, it is not on my coach.

The second is the wire running to the Aux Start Solenoid. Mine is wired exactly as shown in the lower right corner of the diagram, except there is no "16 AWG Violet" wire conneted to the "Aux Start Solenoids". Mine even includes the "Isolator Relay Delay" and is wired as shown, but as said, without the "16 AWG Violet" wire running back to the "Dash Aux Start Switch".

So somewhere between the Aux Start switch and these relays, the wire has gotten lost.

At this point I'd be happy if someone could just take a picture of these connections on their coach and post them for review.

[RUNDLC]

Hello Navigators!! Well I am at it again! This time I may really need some assistance which would be a little time consuming. I just could'nt leave my screen door idea alone, even after sitting on it for a year and a half.

One reason I decided to move forward is I hate the large bulky door panel that is on the 93 model, plus it was cracked and broken. Needless to say there is no way I would ever find a replacement one anyway RIGHT??

I figured the best way was to jump in and see if was possible to do it, so I removed the door panel and it fell apart in my hands My biggest issue is will the sceen door hings work and how do I relocate the rotary latch closer to the strike side since there is a 1 1/2" square steel framing member in the way?? I know they could not have changes that much so I am thinking they notched the the frame and set the latch "into" the frame. The original vendor says he is not sure how they did it but thought I would need to change the main door hinges which I don't want to do.

Has anyone had there door panel off on the door to work on it?? I need some advice.

I like the the way they started doing the panels in 94 they look much sleeker and just well BETTER! They used a plastic ABS panel 1/8" thick, so I will pick up a sheet and make one.


This is how it looks without styrofoam and panel SORRY PICS IS SIDEWAYS



a new rotary latch is needed



This shows the location of the latch on 94-96 models, I also have to recreate this door panels and ends



If worse comes to worse and the screen door won't work I still want to make the door panel work somehow. I am just always making things tough on myself! I figure they did it somehow and I need to just figure it out.

Any helpful tips appreciated

RUNDLC

[RUNDLC]

Per the mfr, the slim line rotary latch is 3 7/8"Tall x 1 1/4" wide and about 7/8" thick. I drew a rudimentary drawing on my autocad ( normally I do homes ) so this is rough to say the least but I think it helped me figure out that I could notch the frame and not really take out too much "meat"

The rotary latch would slide inside the tube and I would shim so when it is bolted it would be nice and tight.

[vtwinwilly]

Originally Posted by RUNDLC

... I drew a rudimentary drawing on my autocad ( normally I do homes ) so this is rough to say the least ...

We should start calling you Doc Brown (reference "Back to the Future", 1985)

[RUNDLC]

Thanks VT Thats funny! Doc Brown. Ok this is how this is going to work you take a flux capacitor.... naw JK
After much tossing and turning last night, I decided to give the OEM a call to double check on why he kept sayin I had to replace my hinges?? Well I finally figured out what he was talking about. I will have to modify my existing door hinge (cut out a 4"-5" section that would act has the hinge point for the screen door, the only way to do this is remove the door cut out the two sections and remount the door EASY!!

This is the top part of the hinge, in total it must be 50"-60" long with about 60 screws holding the door, I will basically have to remove two mounting screws at each screen door hinge, but I will redrill and put them back for support. This is what was done on the early 1-2 years of adding the screens



bottom hinge



I won't actually cut the "new hinges away from the existing until I get the screen door in my posession so I make sure I cut it close to where the mounting holes are on the door. I feel better about this now, I am sure I will run into something but it's the nature Right??

[RUNDLC]

I finished de-constructing the door today and I am pleased with the outcome thus far. Once I took all the mechanicals out I was able to see that I will be able to reuse my existing latching system, the only thing I will have to do is make new rods that "actuate" the latch.

The next thing to do is grind down all the burrs and start locating stuff. Our forum brother PML has a 94 and he is going to get me all the critical dimensions I am looking for on Saturday Thanks Patrick!

My goal for this weekend is to have the latch re-installed in the proper location and getting the new abs door panel cut to size. I don't want to weld anything until I take the door off that way I don't have to disconnect my batteries.

I will post a pic of the door tomorrow with all the crap gone, no turning back now!

[RUNDLC]

These are the dimensions we will be looking for on Saturday, I am wondering should I use abs plastic for the door panel or 1/8" red panel wood?

[RUNDLC]

Todays update,

I spent the better part of two hours making a full size pattern to work with, I made a paper scale based on the door handle cover, I then transferd that into a working scale. I took a ton af measeurement from my door and started to layout what the door panel will look like full scale.

Hopefully you can see the the level of detail and I think she is right on, I am "thinking about having the 1/8" abs plastic laser cut per my autocad drawing that way if anyone ever needs to have theirs replaced I could just send them the file. Here is my full scale drawing. Tomorrow I am going to transfer the info over to my door and see how she looks.

[SpinRite]

If you need to check any of the dimensions, I took some pix for you.

There are four series of pictures, because I had to move the yardsticks around to cover everything.

The first picture in each group shows the overall position of the yardsticks, followed by individual closeups of the exact measurement points.

SERIES 1












SERIES 2
Note: For the rest of the measurements, the vertical yardstick is using the 1-inch mark as the reference point (at the bottom of the window frame), so be careful to subtract that inch from all the measurements.


















SERIES 3








SERIES 4