Auto-leveling when parked

[RustyTools]

Me again ("Oh no, not him!")

I may have found part of my problems - the pneumatic switch on the little pump is intermittent. Should be a simple fix (HA!).

What I did find while trying to drain the air from the little tank to remove the switch, I'd get a continuous - but very small - inflow of more compressed air. But from where? Is this the infamous check valve, but installed correctly, and adding air from the big tanks? If not, what?

Still haven't found a good plumbing diagram to work from. Found the 'generic' one in the Valid literature, but dunno if it's accurate for my configuration. I called them the other day, but haven't heard back.



Any thoughts?

[10Boomer]

Rusty, PM CaptJake1. He fix mine and has a decent understanding of what needs to be done.

[Captjake1]

Originally Posted by 10Boomer

Rusty, PM CaptJake1. He fix mine and has a decent understanding of what needs to be done.

Thanks Perry.
The check valve is there to prevent any air from leaking back out through the little compressor. When they factory installed them they put the pressure switch between the check valve and the compressor. The pressure switch should be on the tank side of the Check valve. Basically just reversing the position of those two should solve most of the issues. By having the pressure switch between the compressor and the check valve it will cause short cycling and make the compressor come on more often than it needs to. I bought both the pressure switch in the check valve from eBay they're much better quality. Presently in the Phoenix area if you are in this area as well
Here is a bad picture. My finger is pointing to the check valve. Well, for my says I dont have permission to post a picture....

[RustyTools]

Still not sure if I'm making a big deal out of nothing with this system , but ...


Here's a photo of my setup. The large cylinder is the little tank with a yellow 1/4" line attached, heading aft. Next to them is the pop-off valve. On the side is a tee with a yellow 3/8" line (also heading aft) and a short line going to another tee at the compressor. Other end of that tee is the switch.

*I don't see a check valve, could it be somewhere in the frame bundles? {probably}

*Since I can (mostly) deplete the air in the little tank and then fire up the engine, is the check valve installed correctly since I will then quickly get lots of air in the little tank? {I'm guessing that 'yes' it is working ok}

And does some air get bled a little at a time into that tank when the engine is off? {I'm guessing 'yes'}

* Is that supposed to do that? {I don't know}



Thanks for bearing with me, guys.

[Bill1947]

I am a newbie to this, I just purchased a 2006 Monaco Diplomat 40'. When I use auto level the 2 rear stabilizers come down then the one stabilizer in the front comes down. When this happens it raises the front so high it is out of level. Is there a sensor somewhere that might be sending the wrong signal to the control unit?

I can level it in manual.
Thanks I know this is a little off topic but all of you seem so knowledgeable I know you have an answer.

[RustyTools]

Let's try that again (photo too big)


Ahh, that's better

[RustyTools]

Hi Bill (and welcome) -


I had an '06 Endeavor (sister-ship to yours) and mine would do the same thing. When auto-leveling, it jumped around so much, and lifted the coach so high, I was afraid it was going to end up breaking the windshield. I finally gave up on auto-level and just did it manually. By the way, if/when you do use manual leveling it's important that you drop the front foot first, since the rest of the coach can then pivot around it.


As far as a sensor, I never found one so can't help you there. I'd suggest you post a new thread about it, since we have a lot of knowledgeable people on here - about everything. Your question may not be seen very well on this thread, since we're talking air-leveling.


Good luck!

[Captjake1]

Ok. Looks like you have 2 check valves. They are very small. One at the large tank and one at the tee heading to the compressor. They have orange rings on them.
The pressure switch hanging off of that tee needs to be moved. I would delete the check valve at the tank all together.
I would then move that switch between the remaining check valve and the tank (check valve should be closest to the compressor. It is there to mot allow air backwards out of compressor when it is off).
Hope that makes sense.
Those check valves are directional as well. They are marked.

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by RustyTools

Let's try that again (photo too big)


Ahh, that's better

Ron,

That's exactly what I've been saying, and this picture verifies it. Your coach is plumbed wrong. The check valve near the "T" in your picture needs to be moved to your compressor outlet. simple change out, but as the Capt'n says, they are directional.

Reading your post, and looking at your picture, does that yellow air line connect? or is it 2 lines running from the tank? It goes out of the picture, so hard to tell.

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by Captjake1

Ok. Looks like you have 2 check valves. They are very small. One at the large tank and one at the tee heading to the compressor. They have orange rings on them.
The pressure switch hanging off of that tee needs to be moved. I would delete the check valve at the tank all together.
I would then move that switch between the remaining check valve and the tank (check valve should be closest to the compressor. It is there to mot allow air backwards out of compressor when it is off).
Hope that makes sense.
Those check valves are directional as well. They are marked.

Capt'n,

I'm looking at his picture, and at first, I thought the yellow lines are one and the same. but now, I'm not sure. I think they are 2 separate lines. If the line on the tank (with the check valve) goes to another air tank, you wouldn't want to take that check valve out of the system.

[Captjake1]

Originally Posted by windsorbill

Capt'n,

I'm looking at his picture, and at first, I thought the yellow lines are one and the same. but now, I'm not sure. I think they are 2 separate lines. If the line on the tank (with the check valve) goes to another air tank, you wouldn't want to take that check valve out of the system.

True. I thought it was the same yellow line.
I just looked st mibe. You are right, 2 different lines. Leave that check valve at the tank.

[RustyTools]

Thanks for joining the party, Bill
Those are 2 separate yellow air lines, the one at the top of the tank is 1/4" and the side one (at the tee) is 3/8". They go up to the rails and bundle together with a lot of other cable & wires, all heading towards the back. Following them may get complicated , but I'll work on it.



Any chance there's a 'Fox & Hound' tracer for pneumatic lines?

[RustyTools]

What is the check valve air-flow direction? From the orange ring towards the threaded-brass, or the other way?


I'm cautious with air lines. No problems playing with live AC lines (dumb, tho), but a neighbor got the skin on his arm peeled open when his shop compressor line split while he was right next to it .

[Captjake1]

Originally Posted by RustyTools

What is the check valve air-flow direction? From the orange ring towards the threaded-brass, or the other way?


I'm cautious with air lines. No problems playing with live AC lines (dumb, tho), but a neighbor got the skin on his arm peeled open when his shop compressor line split while he was right next to it .

Open the drain valve on the bottom of the tank and you will be fine. You really have to look at the valve to determine. But, if they were in backwards, the system wouldn't work at all. I bet they are in the right direction, but the one on the lower tee needs to be moved. Where it is, it has a very tiny amount of air it uses to sense loss. It needs to be using that small tank to sense pressures.