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regvett · 05-06-2013, 09:02 AM

We were traveling to Pennsylvania yesterday to our dog show. As we came through New Jersey the ABS light came on followed by the ATC light and than no power to the RV no lights or flashers in a two lane highway while pulling our toad. I waited a couple of minutes and the flashers came back and the RV started back up. We tried to move again and a half mile it did it again. Same thing. We tried to pull off between an entrance ramp and the highway not much better we were still in a bad spot. Well we called the cops and a tow truck. While waiting with the cops we tried it one more time we wanted to get to a safer place while the cops were following us. Well we were able to run our last hour and a half to get to where we were going. I was waiting in the parking lot the RV kept shutting down, no lights or indication just died.
Well I thought to myself from all my reading on this site I should check the battery master switch I left the flashers on and turned the master battery switch off and back on and it never came back on.
When I removed the switch it came off in a bunch of parts. So I am hoping that was the problem. From what I saw I could not believe we made it here. we were so lucky. Well when we purchased the RV I had a lot of extra parts that came with the RV and in there was a switch, but it was for the house batteries. I hope they are the same.

t55watson · 05-06-2013, 09:16 AM

You may be able to eliminate the switch to get home. Just bolt the cables that go into the switch together and try to start it. You only need the switch to kill power when in storage.

Gorlininc · 05-06-2013, 09:51 AM

Hi

Sorry about your troubles. I'm trying to understand. When you say the master switch. Is that the switch by the door that turns off the 12v systems?
If that's the switch, I'm having the beginning of that problem right now. I understand the first clue is the abs brake light goes on. I'm going to ties the cables on the solenoid together today. I never use that switch and these solenoids are known to go bad.
Please let me know what you find.
Rick

regvett · 05-06-2013, 09:59 AM

No the switch by the door is for the house batteries not for the motor. The switch on my RV is in the back passenger side next to the batteries. The switch looked new from just looking at it, but when you remove it you will see if it is bad.

Gorlininc · 05-06-2013, 10:21 AM

Sorry. You mean the main cut off switch. Wow. I never heard of them going bad. And the fact you couldn't tell from looking at it or turning it, is weird.
I can imagine the surprise you had when it fell apart.
Thank you got the info. Ill have to check mine out.
Please post your outcome.
Thanks
Rick.

Mike Canter · 05-06-2013, 11:24 AM

Rick, if the ONLY problem is getting an ABS light and if that happens when the motor is under load such as climbing then I would change both your fuel filters. Many and I say many times on this forum people have gotten an ABS light and it was the fuel filters. Hard to believe but it is a fairly positive indicator. How many miles has it been since you changed both fuel filters?

YC1 · 05-06-2013, 11:48 AM

Hmm. Since you have two battery banks wouldn't the coach batteries have kept you running? This is assuming your battery combiner circuit is functioning correctly which is not always the case. I say always fix the obvious of course and many strange things go away. There have been issues with some "splices" in the wiring but have not heard of that issue in a few years.

Pusherpilot · 05-06-2013, 02:04 PM

Similar thing happened to me. I was getting "funny things happening" all over the place just before we hit a CG. While in there I tried to switch the chassis batt switch and it had a grinding feel to it. I pulled the switch, which disintegrated in my hands, and connected the two ends of the battery cable with a bolt and replaced the switch when we got home. No more "funny stuff" after that. I've replaced both the switches on our coach and removed and wired around the coach battery cutoff relay circuit too. Lots of little problems went away when I did that. They seem to be damaged by vibration. If I have to do it again I'll replace the switches with a knife switch.
Ron

Les Stallings · 05-08-2013, 06:44 AM

Monaco used two different battery cutoff switches. One looks like grey metal and is fairly robust. The other is plastic, usually red, and looks more modern but has a history of failure.

Like someone said, you definitely can connect the wires on the back of the switch together, even removing those on one terminal and bolting them on the other terminal, bypassing the switch altogether.

You may also have a fuel problem if the coach was surging while running, especially if it did it while under heavier load. That is symptomatic of clogged fuel filters. The ATC light usually flashes during the surges.

Actually the surges could have jarred the battery cutoff switch enough to fail an already weakened switch. That's a stretch but a possibility.

KSCRUDE · 05-08-2013, 06:59 AM

I had a semi Truck last week that would not start on a fuel island. Put 4 new batteries in it last month. It has been acting up for a couple months. Very weird electrical problems. The driver messed wilt the battery disconect switch and the lights came on. Truck started right up. When he got back we took the switch off and the whole back side was melted. Bolted the wires to gather as we had to order a new switch from Peterbilt. They use a switch called a flaming river. Pot metal tee Handel with a plastic body. I have these on every rig, but have never seen one fail. Mack uses one just like it, but it is another brand of switch.

YC1 · 05-08-2013, 08:48 AM

Les, you may be on to something. With dual batteries the engine should keep running unless part of the battery combining system is not working.

nodine · 05-09-2013, 04:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YC1

Les, you may be on to something. With dual batteries the engine should keep running unless part of the battery combining system is not working.

Not all coaches have a B.I.R.D. On our coach you must press BATT BOOST switch to connect the house and chassis batteries together. If you did have a B.I.R.D. and the chassis batteries became disconnected the B.I.R.D. would think the chassis batteries were low and drop out the relay. When the relay drops and the chassis batteries are disconnected the alternator would not have a supply for the field and stop generating.

Bob

regvett · 05-10-2013, 05:46 AM

Well we made it home without any further problems. She ran like a dream. I would have to say that the switch was the problem.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Ron