Battery problem???

[studmuffin]

We have a 2007 Camalot 42 PDQ, 400 Cummins. About 5 days ago, I went to start the coach, and the batteries were low, engine and generator would not start. I found I had left the house rotary shut off on, so I thought that was the problem. After external jumping, etc, I got the generator running, then the engine. Ran for 45 min, charged up everything seemed OK.
Just went over. turned on both battery disconnects, and neither engine or generator will start, even with batt boost. Tried the gen. first, with battery boost, and cranks slowly , then nothing.
Couple of months ago, I checked the batteries , with a load checker, all 6 , 2 -12v and 4 6v, checked OK. Now the batteries are dropping to 10.8-11 volts.
I guess I have a drain somewhere, but both sets going bad have me confused. I have a battery THING, that charges the low set from the higher voltage, but I thought that only worked while the battery isolators were turned on.
When I get it home, I will check current on both sets of batteries.
But, this is a pain in my backside, the coach has always started, even if down for 4 - 5 weeks, the longest down time.

Any ideas where to start, I'll look for a draw, while disconnected first, and go from there.

Oh well, aint life grand, The Muffin Man.

[Lukeaa]

Have you checked the water level in the house batteries?

[Mike Canter]

You didn't say how long it had been sitting when you first discovered they were low. Also remember the cold temperatures greatly reduce the power from the batteries. The first time you knew you had left the disconnect on so there was a valid reason for the batteries being low. OK so now you got everything started and let it run for 45 minutes. That is NOT enough time to get a full charge on all those batteries. Four six volt batteries is probably about 500 amp hrs so if they were totally dead and you had a 50 amp charger it would stand to reason you would need to charge them for 10 hours. 11.3 volts in the batteries is considered to be 10% charge so you were below that. I just think you need to charge them for a longer period of time and everything will be OK. Can you get it somewhere that you can plug it in for a day even on a 20 amp outlet?

[studmuffin]

Thanks for the chart, Mike. I use to know stuff like that, but forgot most of it. I brought it home and charged it for 20 hours. Unplugged and now letting the voltage stabalize, then will see what I get for a drop.

Thanks , the Muffin Man.

[studmuffin]

Whoever installed the ECHO CHARGER made a slight error. The chassis hookup is before the chassis disconnect, and the coach hookup is after the coach disconnect. So when I left the coach disconnect on, it was the same as leaving both battery sets ON. The echo charger ran, both battery packs down, together. Down til the voltage was to low to start either the generator, or the motor.
If both disconnects are OFF, everything should be OK. I guess I'll see. Also, both sets of batteries are at 12.6 volts, with the charger off. So I guess they are fully charged now.
Thanks, the Muffin Man, all charged up, and ready to go.

[Pat-13]

Since batteries are the topic I thought I'd ask for an opinion on how long brand new 4ea 6Volt AGM coach batteries should last in a 2009 Monaco Dynasty if, aside from the small drain items that can't normally be turned off and the only major draw is from the all electric residential fridg. I seem to be pushing the limits when after retiring for the the night with 12.6 and then waking 8 hours later with 11.2 What do you think I should be seeing? Thanks in advance for any input.

[Mike Canter]

Pat, how many house batteries do you have in support of that residential fridge. With my residential fridge I have eight 6 v batteries and if I go to on 100 % battery power at 10:00 pm with 12.6 volts then at 8:00 am I have 12.1-12.2 volts showing. What setting is your fridge on for the main compartment and for the freezer? When I dry camp like that I turn my settings to a three so the fridge does not run much at night when nobody is opening it. One of the problems I had in my MH is that I had the residential fridge but still had the roof and back vents for a camping (propane) fridge. In the summer this allowed the hot air to come in behind my fridge and then the fan on the coils underneath blew this hot air across the coils and into the MH. Not only did it heat the inside of the MH while driving and while parked but the hot air across the coils resulting in my fridge to run all the time and use too much power power. I removed the top of my roof vent and cut some of that pink insulation styrofoam to fit down in the opening. Did two layers with silicone sealer sealing the edges. Then I used that metal tape and sealed off the side vent and stuffed fiberglass batting between the fridge and the vent. Wow, what a difference. Now my AC keeps me cool and the fridge doesn't work as hard and use up my batteries. We don't need vents in the residential fridge at home so I figure we don't need them in a MH since there is no propane used by these residential units.

Just to check here that you did reprogram your inverter/charger for AGM batteries?

[Pat-13]

Thanks Mike for the feedback. I currently have 4 batteries for the house side of things and guess, based on what you experience with 8 that I'm probably going to have to add another layer of 4 to double the available amp/hrs. Not sure I understand how much effect turning the fridg temp controller to a different setting matters as long as you don't open the door. I figured it would be adequately insulated and be able to maintain a temp with minimal compressor operation. Always learning I guess. Estimate to add the 4 additional batteries with a shelf was considerable. Oh, and yes on the inverter reprograming.

[billsmax]

Mike,

How long has your fridge been running with the back and top vents closed off? I'm seriously thinking of doing the same to mine.
Thanks for the info

[Bob (WA0MQE)]

How can one tell if there is a Echo Charger installed? I too have had problems with the chassis batteries going dead while setting at a campground. If I do have an Echo Charger it's not working. Where is this so-called Echo Charger located?

[Mike Canter]

Bill, I have made two trips with the vents closed off. The way I look at it a residential fridge is now made with the coils on the bottom so it can be pushed right up against the wall and there is a little fan underneath to circulate the air. There is no open flame and no vent requirement for today's residential fridges. The big thing is that my Sig stopped getting dust over everything all the time from the open vents while driving. My heater works better and my AC works a ton better. While driving this summer (and DW behind the wheel) I went back to the fridge and HOT air was pouring in from under the fridge coming from the vents. If it had been a Norcold type RV fridge that would have all been sealed off. I will be very interested in seeig the difference next summer when it is real hot out.

You have my email address so if you want detailed description on how I did it then let me know.

[Mike Canter]

Pat, I don't think the fridge insulation is that good that turning it down to 3 from 5 would not help save battery power. Also, when my vents were open the hot air coming in during the summer just prevented the freon from being cooled in the coils so it just didn't get real cold inside the fridge and the compressor was running all the time.

I will say this with all these RV fridge fires I sure am glad I have a residential fridge.

[billsmax]

Mike, you always come through with great fixes or mods.
Thanks

by the way, I'm glad I don't have to put your name on my coach everywhere I've used one of your suggestion, it would begin to look like it's your RV