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Old 01-09-2010, 04:31 AM   #15
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Are your bay heaters easily accessable? Mine is located in a position where you have to be a contortionist to reach it.

If fact the sani-con is mounted in such a way that the impeller manual access hole faces the rear and cannot be accessed with a screwdriver, but that's another story.
Bob,

You are correct in that you must be a contortionist to remove and replace the heater. I was able to do that and also install a back up 110 VAC heater connected to the block heater outlet near the radiator. We do not winterize and keep the coach at home plugged in to 50 amp. Here is a photo of my heaters:


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Old 01-11-2010, 03:36 PM   #16
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when I was passing through NC after Christmas I opened up the Water Bay door and felt the cold air blowing from the heater. I have seen the red glow before but not this time. The outside temperature was about 28 degrees. I just finished checking everything inside the Cargo Heat unit that I could check. The Fuse was okay and all connections were tight. I reinstalled the unit and checked that 12 volts were available on the Red side of the connector, 30 amp fuse Okay. Then I jumpered the Red and White wires at the connector, buy-passing the Disk Switch. The unit heated up and ran NORMAL! I think I will install a switch in lieu of the jumper, that I subsequently removed, so I can over-ride the Automatic function if I choose to. Still scratching my head as to why the unit was not blowing hot air up in NC.
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:35 PM   #17
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My bay heater will blow cold air when it is in the cool down cycle. Try leaving the bay door open when the temp is around 30-degrees and see if it turns on. The snap switch closes at 31-degrees and off at 38-degrees.
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:14 PM   #18
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It should be cold enough here in Florida tonight for me to check it out. I had not thought about a cooling down period because it was too cold at the time. It would be a good idea to cool it down a little with the temp. fuse in there. My wireless temperature transmitter just ran out of battery life but it also seemed to cycle at about 33 degrees located in the bottom of the bay. I still can not find the location of the disk switch in the wiring harness.
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:42 PM   #19
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Hello again everyone, I have a question about the bay heater in my 2004 Diplomat. The temp is getting into the teens at night and low 30's during the day I just went out to drain the fresh tank and hot water heater and hot lines, the hot and cold lines will not drain so I guest they are frozen so I started the gen and turned the System Heat Operation switch on and the bay heater started blowing, I then let it sit for about 30 minutes went to check the bay and the heater is still blowing cold air. Question is am I doing something wrong, why is the bay heater still blowing cold air? Any help would be appreciated.
If its the fuse, it is a bear to get to it as stated in some posts. Simple thought here before you start messing with the guts... Take it for a ride and possibly it will heat up... If not... sorry many other thoughts/ideas will come forward. Good Luck.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:34 PM   #20
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The snap disk is most likely hidden behind your panel in the service bay and up high. If you have the plastic panel that is open at the bottom, try using a mirror and flashlight and look behind the panel.

On my 01 Diplomat, it is at the very top of the bay at the back of a shelf for storing hose. I can see it but it is very hard to reach.
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:15 PM   #21
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Thank you Rex. I will try with a mirror. Have you had to remove the panel for hose reel maintenance. I dread having to change the o-ring on that device. If I find the snap disk I will relocate it to the lower part of the bay, but not in the direct flow of the hot air. Based on my experience with Monaco I doubt much engineering went into the present location. My Cargo Heat was working properly last night but I also found that the "Heater Running" light bulb in the coach is intermittent at best. This also makes trouble shooting a PITA. Looks like I will need to replace the Water Heater switch for the same reason, bad bulb. It would be nice to have a LED there to eliminate the bulb failure problem.
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:01 PM   #22
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No I have not removed the panel as mine is built much different than the 05's are, so can't offer any advice there. Hope you don't have to actually remove it. Let us know when you find the snap switch. It is about the size of a dime and will have two push-on wire terminals. Does not look like a switch at all.

If the bulbs are burnt out in the water pump switch, you can get a pack those mini bulbs at Radio Shack with Radio Shack P/N 272-1092 which is lamp #7219, you'll need a bit of dexterity and small needle nose pliers. You can carefully take the switch apart but do it over a table so you don't loose any of the internal parts.



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Old 01-13-2010, 10:06 AM   #23
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I have checked my heater when running and there was a glow, but now it runs and blows cold air and no glow. The last time I checked the haeter was running but the bay was 25F. On the control panel the first time I started the heater an additional light above the on/off switch came but after that time it does not come on but was heating.
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Old 01-13-2010, 01:40 PM   #24
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Thank you Rex. I will try to replace the bulbs myself.

Montiem, FWIW The indicator bulb is not trustworthy, switch light is switch position only and the indicator light only tells you the unit has been told to turn on. Only feeling warm air from the heater is a positive indication of proper operation.
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Old 01-14-2010, 06:53 AM   #25
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Thank you Rex. I will try to replace the bulbs myself.

Montiem, FWIW The indicator bulb is not trustworthy, switch light is switch position only and the indicator light only tells you the unit has been told to turn on. Only feeling warm air from the heater is a positive indication of proper operation.
I see you have a Knight also, can you tell me where the snap disc is located in your coach, I have not looked real hard it's been to cold to stay out but what time I did look was unsuccessful.
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Old 01-14-2010, 07:00 AM   #26
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Bob,

You are correct in that you must be a contortionist to remove and replace the heater. I was able to do that and also install a back up 110 VAC heater connected to the block heater outlet near the radiator. We do not winterize and keep the coach at home plugged in to 50 amp. Here is a photo of my heaters:


Bob
Where did you get a 110V heater with a low thermostat setting that would not over heat the bay, what is the thermostat set at on the added heater, I would like to do that on my motor home
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:59 AM   #27
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Where did you get a 110V heater with a low thermostat setting that would not over heat the bay, what is the thermostat set at on the added heater, I would like to do that on my motor home
montiem,

To be honest we have had two of those heaters for quite a few years and I do not remember where I got them from. My guess would be Walmart but they may not be available now. The heaters are ceramic and have a high and low speed fan setting as well as a thermostat. I keep the fan speed on high and the thermostat turned almost all the way down. That keeps the compartment about 60 degrees F. I have a wireless thermometer installed in the compartment that can be read locally or remotely. The name of the heater brand is Calore. You may be able to use something like this:
Walmart.com: World Marketing Ceramic Safety Furnace: Home Improvement

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Old 01-16-2010, 11:25 AM   #28
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I may have misread my owners manual, but I thought it said when you turn on the bay heater, the tank pads are also on.....and the tanks need to have water/effulent in them so as not to ruin the tank heat pads. Maybe not all bay heater applications are connected the same way or maybe they are not on the same electrical circuit. Can any one speak to this?
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