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Old 02-04-2010, 07:47 PM   #43
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Sorry I don't have the number but I can get it tomorrow when I pick my heater up, I think it is the same therma switch that is inside of a 120v ceramic heater, he picked it up local I think. He was going to find one if he could. As I understand the Cargo heater people told him to do it
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:52 PM   #44
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Since everyone is having so much trouble I bought a small 120 heater with an adjustable thermostat, I am getting electricity from the storage bay or the back back where the electrical comes in, I have not figured out how to run the wire yet. Just for a backup
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:54 PM   #45
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You forgot to mention, these heaters are junk. It seems that everyone is having a problem with them. I'm throwing minr in the trash and puting in a small ceramic heater. It will work when I need it and I don't have to wonder if the junk is working this time or not.
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:36 PM   #46
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That's what I did but getting electricity to it in the water bay is another story
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:38 AM   #47
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You forgot to mention, these heaters are junk. It seems that everyone is having a problem with them. I'm throwing minr in the trash and puting in a small ceramic heater. It will work when I need it and I don't have to wonder if the junk is working this time or not.
Where is some wood...cuz I'll need to knock on it after I say that there has been no issue with the one in the Diplomat...



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Old 02-05-2010, 05:00 AM   #48
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That's what I did but getting electricity to it in the water bay is another story
Buy some high quality extension cord that is rated for 15 amps at 120 VAC or better. Buy a high qulity female socket that can be attached. Cut off the female socket that came with the extension cord. Make sure the extension cord is long enough when you purchase it to run from the block heater 110VAC outlet near the radiator up over the wheel well and up to the water bay. fish the cord from the radiator area being careful to tie it in many places with cable ties as you go. Keep away from hot exhaust and moving suspension. It will be tight going over the wheel well and difficult to tie down. It can be done because I have done it. When you get to where the floor of the water bay is carefully select a place to drill a hole for the cable to enter. First use a small bit to make sure you have selected a good place to drill and will not hit the water tank or other equipment. Once you are sure about the location of the hole drill the hole just slightly larger than the diameter of the cable. Slip the cable through and give yourself enough slack to bring it outside the water bay door. Seal around the hole and cable and cut off any excess cable length. Now install the new female socket and you have 110 VAC power for your heater.

Here is a photo of my 110 VAC Ceramic heater installed next to the 12VDC Cargo Bay heater:


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Old 02-05-2010, 08:17 AM   #49
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The service man called and was not able to find the 120v thermosat but if he does find one I will let everyone know. I think it is teh same part except for a 120v corparable heater. I ordered the correct one that was posted earlier in this forum, Radio Shake, $1.69 for part 5.00 shipping
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:24 AM   #50
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Buy some high quality extension cord that is rated for 15 amps at 120 VAC or better. Buy a high qulity female socket that can be attached. Cut off the female socket that came with the extension cord. Make sure the extension cord is long enough when you purchase it to run from the block heater 110VAC outlet near the radiator up over the wheel well and up to the water bay. fish the cord from the radiator area being careful to tie it in many places with cable ties as you go. Keep away from hot exhaust and moving suspension. It will be tight going over the wheel well and difficult to tie down. It can be done because I have done it. When you get to where the floor of the water bay is carefully select a place to drill a hole for the cable to enter. First use a small bit to make sure you have selected a good place to drill and will not hit the water tank or other equipment. Once you are sure about the location of the hole drill the hole just slightly larger than the diameter of the cable. Slip the cable through and give yourself enough slack to bring it outside the water bay door. Seal around the hole and cable and cut off any excess cable length. Now install the new female socket and you have 110 VAC power for your heater.

Here is a photo of my 110 VAC Ceramic heater installed next to the 12VDC Cargo Bay heater:


Bob
I looked at that route in trying to find the right way, with my coach I am thinking about running the cord down through the floor of water compartment and under the LP tank and up the front of the LP compartment and into the back storage and hooking in the recepticle there. In my LP bay there is a small space open that ou can see the plastic liner of the storahe bay, drill through that just below the water tank. I looked at the route you took and I think it would be maybe a little better but more difficult. Do you see a problem with the LP tank area, as you know it is open on the bottom
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:37 PM   #51
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You guys are right, the cargo heat is junk and they what $120 for a new one that will crap out in a year or so???? Dont think so. Will also run a ceramic heater as a replacement.
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:29 PM   #52
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You guys are right, the cargo heat is junk and they what $120 for a new one that will crap out in a year or so???? Dont think so. Will also run a ceramic heater as a replacement.
Posted earlier in this thread, right after purchasing my '02 Windsor second owner, found the bay heater stuck in another bay. Looked at it, look at where it was plugged in, saw a bunch of rust not only on the bay heater but in the bay too, thought this looks like a piece of junk and tossed it into the trash. Permanent bay heater and water in my book don't go together. Now I use a drop light with a 100 watt bulb when the temp gets too low, meaning around 35F or so. If the temp was to stay there or lower too long, I'd be heading further South. I do have a small spare ceramic heater that will fit in there but haven't had to use it yet. Won't be a problem if I do as it will be easy to run an extension over to the power panel to hook into the 30 amp. I won't leave it there as too many times that bay gets wet from service or doing other tasks. I keep my service bay clean and dry as much as possible and like it to stay that way. Having a rusty useless bay heater there doesn't make sense to me.

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Old 02-05-2010, 03:10 PM   #53
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I looked at that route in trying to find the right way, with my coach I am thinking about running the cord down through the floor of water compartment and under the LP tank and up the front of the LP compartment and into the back storage and hooking in the recepticle there. In my LP bay there is a small space open that ou can see the plastic liner of the storahe bay, drill through that just below the water tank. I looked at the route you took and I think it would be maybe a little better but more difficult. Do you see a problem with the LP tank area, as you know it is open on the bottom
I don't see a problem with your route but if your coach is like mine you should be able to use a sewer snake and fish the cord across the top of the gray and black tanks to the other side. My coach has a service door that can be opened on the curb side. It is easy from there to run the cord past the hot water heater into the rear storage area by using the door that opens to access the water heater by pass valve. There is an AC outlet right next to the door for an outside television. I did not take that route for my wet bay heater because I have a second heater on that side just to make sure I don't freeze any of the three tanks. I use that outlet for that heater and to charge my DeWalt power tool batteries. I guess you can tell I am a little anal about the heaters. We do not winterize the coach because we use it all year. It has done just fine at 6 degrees and the tank bay was at 40 on the curb side and 55 on the street side. I have wireless thermometers on both ends of the tank bay. An added benefit is the bathroom floor receives some heat form the heater on the curb side.

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Old 02-05-2010, 06:54 PM   #54
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I finished mine today, I went through the floor of the water bay, then through the LP bay and then I found a part of the frame, 1" channel, I was able to run the extension cord through the channel, there is no place the cord is exposed to the bottom of the coach where something could catch it, worked perfect. Then it was almost to the receptacle, I drilled a 1 ¼ “hole at the bottom of the storage bay and up to receptacle. I found a small ceramic heater but it is still too large to fit behind the plumbing but there is just enough room to set it on the floor next to the valves. In addition I installed a wireless thermometer with the receiver inside. I am going to be on the look out for a smaller heater and then I will install next to the 12V heater. I will havew to admit I feel a lot better with this heater than the one that come with the coach, it is a $120.00 piece of junk
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:49 PM   #55
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Don.t remember where I saw this, but there is a small thermostat that plugs in-line into an electric cord that will cut on and off at preset temps. I think it came from Lowe's and it was Yellow. Should work fine in the Service Bay and keep it from getting too hot. Should I come across the source or name, I will post it here.
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:32 AM   #56
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Re Rex's above, may want to do a search for "Thermo Cube" on line. It looks like something that would work.
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