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Old 09-29-2009, 08:05 PM   #15
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BigDomino...
Here is what the snap disc will look like...but this one is not in the wet bay.



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Old 09-29-2009, 09:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtrek View Post
Steve

The heater also has an inline fuse/over temp device in it, you can verify with an ohm meter after removing the heater. The fuse/over temp device (don't remember what it is called) but they are not hard to find. I replaced mine last winter on a Safari Trek, tried working with the manufacture of the heater but goy nowhere. Not very hard to fix, need a good electrical crimp tool to do it.

Richard
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I looked up what the device is called. It is a thermal fuse, located in the heater and is about .25 inch in diameter and .75 inch long with leads on each end. They react to current and temperature, they are common in most all heating appliances like toasters, irons etc.
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:38 PM   #17
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My 12 volt wet bay heater didn't work either and the snap disk t-stat was ok. When I was at the service center this was on my list so they dug into it. The wires for the heater were never run so they had to run new wires to and from the switch on the EMS panel to the heater. Now it works and the status light burns green when it's on. My snap disk t-stat is in the compartment behind the wet bay with the water pump and auto winterization remote valve and reservoir. I had to remove a panel that was attached with screws to gain access to the area. Mine comes on at 40* and goes off at 58*.
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:00 PM   #18
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HI Steve . You need to check your snap disk switch. Its in the wet bay and thay go bad real fast. Mine did not last a year. Mine was up in behind the panel you remove with 4 screws and was way back up on or near the frame. It cuts your heater on and off when the temp goes below 35 deg. You can check yours with a test meter. Should be open from about 40 and up. Should be close below 35 so you should get a reading on your meter then. I took the snap switch off and put a 12 fuze onto the two push on clips. Kinda like stright wireing it and went in and turned the inside rocker switch on and the heater came right on. Found me a new switch on the net and installed it but only after adding some wire to it to get it out where I can change it easer next time. I have been told that dont last over two years.
Good Luck. Tallguy
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:30 PM   #19
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I have an additional question. I have an 09 Holiday Rambler Admiral, the mannual says the Cargo Heat consumes 20 amps. Will a 110 cord handle this or will I need to be plugged into 30 amps?
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Old 10-03-2009, 02:03 AM   #20
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HI Steve . You need to check your snap disk switch. Its in the wet bay and thay go bad real fast. Mine did not last a year. Mine was up in behind the panel you remove with 4 screws and was way back up on or near the frame. It cuts your heater on and off when the temp goes below 35 deg. You can check yours with a test meter. Should be open from about 40 and up. Should be close below 35 so you should get a reading on your meter then. I took the snap switch off and put a 12 fuze onto the two push on clips. Kinda like stright wireing it and went in and turned the inside rocker switch on and the heater came right on. Found me a new switch on the net and installed it but only after adding some wire to it to get it out where I can change it easer next time. I have been told that dint last over two years.
Good Luck. Tallguy
tallguy850 .. welcome to iRV2! we are glad to have you join us.
I can say that we must be lucky -as we have had our rig for over 3 years now and we have not had to replace it (and yes- I am knocking on wood as I type this)
Again -welcome to the forum ...we hope you visit and post often!



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Old 10-03-2009, 02:07 AM   #21
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I have an additional question. I have an 09 Holiday Rambler Admiral, the manual says the Cargo Heat consumes 20 amps. Will a 110 cord handle this or will I need to be plugged into 30 amps?
I-ramble...I want to also welcome you to iRV2! I cannot answer your question for sure - but I might ask where are you plugging it into?
I am sure some of the AM guys will be able to answer soon...

again welcome to iRV2..we hope you also post & visit often!



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Old 10-03-2009, 05:34 AM   #22
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I have an additional question. I have an 09 Holiday Rambler Admiral, the mannual says the Cargo Heat consumes 20 amps. Will a 110 cord handle this or will I need to be plugged into 30 amps?
I-Ramble,

That would be 20 amps at 12 volts which is about 240 watts. The OEM bay heater runs off the 12 volt house battery system. On the shore power side (110VAC) you will only be adding about 1/2 amp of current to the cord when the heater runs and this will not necessarily be at the same instant. That is because the power consumed by the bay heat from the battery bank will be replaced when the inverter/converter charges the batteries.

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Old 10-03-2009, 09:51 AM   #23
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Bob---I'm brand new here---let me make another attempt. Can I expect my bay heater to run OK if connected to 110, or will I need to be connect to 30 amp?

Jim
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Old 10-03-2009, 10:37 AM   #24
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Welcome! Your Bay Heater will run just fine either way. The load on your 110 will be minimal, no need to increase the capability just for the Bay Heater. However, if you are running just on batteries your batteries will not last very long. As stated above; The Bay Heater does not run on 110. It runs on 12 volts, only available from your batteries. Your 110 runs the charger that re-charges the batteries. It is not an either or situation. If you are just charging the batteries 15 amp is more than enough, at least for my rig.
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Old 10-03-2009, 10:52 AM   #25
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Welcome! Your Bay Heater will run just fine either way. The load on your 110 will be minimal, no need to increase the capability just for the Bay Heater. However, if you are running just on batteries your batteries will not last very long. As stated above; The Bay Heater does not run on 110. It runs on 12 volts, only available from your batteries. Your 110 runs the charger that re-charges the batteries. It is not an either or situation. If you are just charging the batteries 15 amp is more than enough, at least for my rig.
I would however, keep a close eye on your batteries. Depending on the converter, it may run continuously and boil out the acid. With yours being a newer coach, I would not expect this to happen, but I would watch it for a month or so. By watch it, I mean take a look every couple weeks, not daily. Also, the bay heater will not normally turn on until the outside temp is approx 28*.
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:17 PM   #26
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you need to be pluged in to the 30 amp because its a 12 volt heater and if your inverter is not getting enough power put back into your batterys thay will go dead
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:15 PM   #27
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This discussion is getting quite interesting. After mulling this over and talking with an electrician I have this to add. When I am hooked up to a standard 110 outlet, figuring it may be fused at 15 amps, I have 1650 watts available. This goes to a converter, which mine has an input of 1000 watts and an output of 13.6 volts and 60 amps, which means it can deliver 816 watts. The bay heater uses 12 volts and 20 amps, which equals 240 watts. So, bottom line is, I don’t need to be plugged into a 30 amp service to have sufficient electricity to run the heater.

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Old 10-12-2009, 08:41 PM   #28
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Hello Guys Just wanted to let everybody know who has ever been down to Florida to Camp monoco that it has been reopened. They are not monoco now but have some of the people working there who did all the monoce work. They are taking appointments now and the campground is open to but its 20.00 dollars a night. I know the general manage and am sure they can help you out with any problem you might have with any brand of coach. My e-mail is wcd66lbd@hotmail.com if anybody would want the contact info. They can do warrenty work on items covered .
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