Bedroom slide-out bottom damage

[The Danes Are Coming]

Here is a long story for you. This is spurred on by another resent thread on bedroom slide-out failure.

A definite weak point in the design of our 07 Diplomat is the bedroom slide-out. As we have heard quite a few people have a problem where the slide-out rollers is “eating away” at the slide-out bottom. Anyone know what the exact build-up of these slide-out bottoms is?

We will have to address this problem on our MH before we damage the surface beyond repair and here is our thoughts for repair:

Maybe it is possible to attach new and wider rollers that will spread the load? This would maybe have been a good solution early on and could still have some benefit as a supplement to a reinforcement of the slide-out bottom.

We are aware that Monaco’s repair centres in some cases have added strips of what must be thin stainless steel sheets where the rollers get in touch with the slide-out bottom. This now acts as a load distributor and with a much harder surface than the original slide-out bottom. Did anyone successfully add such strip themselves?

Ideally the strips should be thick – at least thick enough to be able to countersink stainless steel screws into it. We would have thought that a super strong and at the same time very flexible silicone glue maybe could do it on its own but a mechanical fixing must without a doubt add strength to this add-on. If the strip decides to come away from the slide-out bottom at any time it will surely create a royal mess to the outside of the MH plus do serious damage to the slide-out bottom.

If the stainless strip is too thick this may act as an unwanted “speed bump” when it, on its way in, meets the rollers. We wonder if the solution is to make the strips long enough so that they are under the rollers even when the slide-out is fully extended? Would it make a difference if the slide-out gets lifted say 3 or 4 millimetres? If it won’t go under the rollers permanently one could taper the end of the strip to ease the bump but we think that this may, over time, be detrimental to the rollers.

Any thoughts?

Thanks for reading this.

[William Willard]

I have stainless steel strips under the rollers -- I used pop rivets -- Bill Willard

[alan1]

Had that problem on my endeavor. Was fixed using the stainless steel/ or aluminum strips using pop rivets. Slide can be lifted up using jacks and 4x4's.

[powerboatr]

same problem on four of my 6 slides on the damon
I installed alum "roads" for the rollers to travel on this solved the problem...
really irritates me that it was not a factory fix from the get go

[38 Special]

On my 02 Diplomat, I added aluminum strips. I used 1/8" thick material. Afterwards, we had to lean a little on the slide at the top to get it to go out. 1/8" was a little too thick and compressed the seal on the top to the point of restriction.

[Wayne M]

I feel your pain. Slide problems are not exclusive. Our 23 foot slide ripped the pedestal that the bed rails glide on right out of the floor. There was supposed to be a factory modification that only got 90% installed. The rails needed to be increased in width for a proper ride.

Good luck. I wish I could be of help.

[The Danes Are Coming]

Thank you all for your comments.

Quote:

Originally Posted by William Willard I have stainless steel strips under the rollers -- I used pop rivets -- Bill Willard

Bill - just so that I understand your comments correctly. Your stainless steel strips are long enough that the rollers don't have to negotiate what I call "a speed bump"? I am sure that I have enough clearance at the top to add say 1/8" thick steel strip. I don't want to have to manually push on the slide to get it over a bump.

Pop rivets seems to be way that works for fixing. None of you added any kind of adhesive?

[H. Miller]

Henrik,
What is your present outer layer made of? I refer to that which rides on the rollers.
Ours is a thin white "plastic" sheet (maybe 1/32") that covers the entire slide bottom. It has no mechanical fasteners so is presumed to be glued to what appears to be thicker plywood (not mdf) so pop rivits wouldn't work. It's only a small 6"X6" area at the motorhome wall (when extended) so we took out the small mangled pieces - straightened out the jagged edges and it has not gotten any worse in over a year.
Hal
PS - I bottled last week and have another batch brewing

[The Danes Are Coming]

Quote:

Originally Posted by H. Miller Henrik, What is your present outer layer made of? I refer to that which rides on the rollers. Ours is a thin white "plastic" sheet (maybe 1/32") that covers the entire slide bottom. It has no mechanical fasteners so is presumed to be glued to what appears to be thicker plywood (not mdf) so pop rivits wouldn't work. It's only a small 6"X6" area at the motorhome wall (when extended) so we took out the small mangled pieces - straightened out the jagged edges and it has not gotten any worse in over a year. Hal PS - I bottled last week and have another batch brewing

Hi Hal

Thanks for your comments. I think that "our bottom" is identical to yours (no punt intended ).

May I suggest that we schedule a site meeting when we hopefully meet in Boerne in September.

I would be extremely pleased to sample your latest brew.

Looking forward to see you both.

[William Willard]

Great Dane -- I used 22 gauge(.030) stainless steel, cut into 6" widths, & length, as would be required to go OVER the rollers -- Use something like Liquid Nails to hold in place, then use stainless pop rivets -- They will hold in the wood --Mine has been there 3 years -- It steel will cost about 401.00 Danish Krone -- Bill Willard

[The Danes Are Coming]

Thanks Bill - pictures are very explanatory.

[powerboatr]

my rollers are already in contact with the alum strips as well, this solved the speed bump issue with the first go round of testing.
i used wood screws and epoxy adhesive to glue the strips in place.
my alum is .032 " then a small amount of rtv to seal the edges.

if it helps

[The Danes Are Coming]

Quote:

Originally Posted by powerboatr my rollers are already in contact with the alum strips as well, this solved the speed bump issue with the first go round of testing. i used wood screws and epoxy adhesive to glue the strips in place. my alum is .032 " then a small amount of rtv to seal the edges. if it helps

It does help - thanks.

[H. Miller]

Where would one obtain the stainless steel? I've got the aluminum covered.