Bird system doesn't seem to be working

[davdamon]

I have a 2003 holiday rambler imperial and my chassis batteries will not charge when plugged into ac. I have replaced the isolator with a 1602 isolator and also removed my salesman trombetta.because that was messing up. Any ideas would be appreciated. Also should I just switch to bim system?

[davdamon]

Looking also for a replacement to my battery maintainer lampert le415 any ideas

[Outbound]

I added a Echo Charger for chassis batteries, simple install, see attached.

[twinboat]

If you have a Lampert maintainer you don't have a BIRD system.
BIRD is a bi-directional device. Meaning it charges both ways.

Your isolator is only for your alternator to charge both chassis and house batteries while running down the road. It has nothing to do with charging while on shore power.

The Lampert charges your chassis battery. That's another isolator that uses your house charger to maintain your chassis battery.

If you have large battery cables on your boost solenoid, you can install a BIRD type device in its place.

Then connect your alternator wire, on the isolator, to the chassis wire, on the isolator, together. You don't need the isolator or the house battery wire.

Install this in place of the boost solenoid.

https://www.yandina.com/c600Info.htm

[Vanwill]

As I have said on several occasions, it has always seemed to me that the BIRD system was another of those overly complicated tech choices that Monaco made without any engineering expertise. Although my 2000 Dynasty did not have BIRD, it did have the solid-state isolator and a Lambert charger. Although that combination was not Neanderthal, neither was it state-of-the-art, even at the time.

Although my SSI and Lambert had not given a problem, the SSI had a “bulge” that concerned me. Prior to a trip from NC to Alaska, I elected to change the system to something more reliable and MUCH easier diagnosed and serviced. Blue Sea ML-ACR. (Look on Amazon). That was in early 2016. The system had performed flawlessly since then. I’ve never had a problem with it, but if I did, I could diagnose it simply by looking at the actuator on the ML-ACR.

My friend Paul Whittle, who originally made this swap, did it on his 1994 Signature. When his present 2006 Sig developed a problem with the BIRD, he replaced it with the Blue Sea ML-ACR. The changeover was simple. Search on iRV2 for his article. When he came to my house recently, I saw just how simple the changeover was.

There will always be those who want to maintain “OEM” systems. I don’t argue with those folks. If you spend enough money and time, your BIRD can be repaired. Me? I’ll take the easy upgrade to a more modern, dependable system. As the Blue Sea warranty reads, “We stand behind this device for as long as you own it.” Not one year. Not two years. Not five years. “For as long as you own it.” Many of the sailors that follow this forum are familiar with the quality of Blue Sea devices. The entire ML-ACR system is less than $200…AND IT WORKS AS SOON AS YOU INSTALL IT!

[davdamon]

Thank you

[davdamon]

Which one do I get there are quite a few on amazon

[RobRoy]

Originally Posted by davdamon

Which one do I get there are quite a few on amazon

" ML-ACR "

as seen here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_oKQ_N8_EY

HTH

[Vanwill]

RobRoy has posted the correct one. ML-ACR. If it comes in two versions, WITH or WITHOUT the remote switch, I suggest the one with the remote switch. The installation will work without it, but sometimes you will get an "Alternator Fail" light when running the generator at the same time the engine is running. In that case, flip the switch to disconnect the two battery banks and the light goes out. You could ignore the Alternator Fail light, but on most coaches, it disables the tach and speedometer.

Here is one thread by the guy who pioneered this swap. This one is on an 06 Sig. I think there is also another thread outlining how he did it on his previous coach. It was a 94 Sig.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/repl...cr-468617.html