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Old 09-09-2019, 09:02 AM   #1
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Boost gone

I own a Monaco dynasty 1996.
I live in Pennsylvania and in August took a trip to Niagara Falls. So I did a pre trip all was fine. On my way home was driving 70 mph all was well, now Iím five mins from home hit a little hill it struggled to climb. (Now I look At my boost gauge not even 5 lbs)
I been in the automotive field so my knowledge is far from novice but my diesel is totally novice. So I started from front to back found a couple of things, first Pacbrake frozen took that off and freed it up . Then got under motor actuator rod bracket cracked off and was just hanging. Fixed that Iím thinking ok here we go fixed not so fast still no boost (5lbs) .
So I make my turbo boost tester I put a Gauge so I could check for leaks. Charge the system couldnít
build any pressure . I removed side cover put some soapy solution bubbles on all seams.. My question to anyone out there what do I do canít find intercooler can try to braze but thereís a cooler connected on the bottom looks like maybe for transmission but kinda small. Can anyone tell me if I can put a aftermarket intercooler on and just cut the bottom out and rebraze it back on I have not seen a intercooler this large so Iím assuming thereís a lot of heat. I know this is long and rambling but I been reading these forums and the knowledge base here is incredible. Please donít bash me on my spelling or grammar just direct me in the right direction.
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Old 09-09-2019, 09:10 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tare View Post
So I make my turbo boost tester I put a Gauge so I could check for leaks. Charge the system couldnít build any pressure . I removed side cover put some soapy solution bubbles on all seams..

My question to anyone out there what do I do canít find intercooler can try to braze but thereís a cooler connected on the bottom looks like maybe for transmission but kinda small. Can anyone tell me if I can put a aftermarket intercooler on and just cut the bottom out and rebraze it back on I have not seen a intercooler this large so Iím assuming thereís a lot of heat. I know this is long and rambling but I been reading these forums and the knowledge base here is incredible. Please donít bash me on my spelling or grammar just direct me in the right direction.
How are you testing the CAC? Are you removing hose from inlet side and using a "cap with a fitting" to pressurize? Are you capping the outlet side of the CAC too?
If you're not building any pressure you would have a huge leak (should be easy to find).

You can take your CAC to a radiator shop to see if it can be repaired. If not,
there are aftermarket CACs available. The key to get one of the same size (or larger is okay) that fits the space. Here's a popular aftermarket brand Source Engineering Inc | Custom RV Chassis | Eugene, OR
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Old 09-09-2019, 09:46 AM   #3
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Sound expensive. I hope I'm wrong.
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:39 AM   #4
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How did you pressure the system. I'm down a little on turbo boost so I will try that.
What did you use to block both ends to see if you have a leak.
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:05 AM   #5
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On past threads when boost disappeared like that they usually found
a hose came off that goes to the intercooler .
Also boost is directly related to fuel . Did you fill up with diesel before
this happened ? Bad fuel and plugged up fuel filters can kill your power
and boost .
When you had the pac brake off did you spin the turbo with
your fingers to make sure it is free but not loose ( worn ) ?

I believe you will find the intercooler is aluminum and they all leak
to some extent so I've been told .
Never heard of on being so bad to kill all the boost
Yes they are expensive , if you have the skills to engineer another
one in place there is no reason why it would not work .
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:17 AM   #6
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I was hoping that fuel filters was my culprit and as it was time for a service I've
changed them, didn't help.
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:53 PM   #7
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I used a plug then I made a rubber boot on the side that I connected to turbo I had a gate valve so I took compressor down to 30 lbs open gate valve it didn’t pressurize at all
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:55 PM   #8
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Also I changed the last filter at the back side of the motor I donít know where the other filter is
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Old 09-09-2019, 01:09 PM   #9
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Sorry for all these post I’m typing on my cell phone yes I did spin turbo and the fuel system I have has a Winn system I thought it was the only fuel filter
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Old 09-09-2019, 01:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tare View Post
I used a plug then I made a rubber boot on the side that I connected to turbo I had a gate valve so I took compressor down to 30 lbs open gate valve it didn’t pressurize at all
If you don't block the outlet side of the CAC for this test, you can get a false negative reading because the air will then go into the engine intake manifold and if one cylinder is in "valve overlap" the air will go into the cylinder past the intake valve and back out the exhaust valve, so you wont build pressure (but you would hear the air escaping at the tail pipe).

Before buying a new CAC I would double check your test method.

I've heard some DIYers will use a 4" or 6" (whatever is correct size) PVC pipe cap and drill/tap a hole in the end for an air coupler fitting. Then clamp that into to the CAC using the rubber boot. Same on the other side of CAC but without the fitting.
However note that you would not want to pressurize with more than 20 psi because that is a lot of pressure trying to blow out that test cap (e.g. 4 inch cap-squared x 20 psi = 320 pounds of force). Personally I would be very cautious trying this home made tester myself.
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Old 09-09-2019, 02:26 PM   #11
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Ok I have something similar to what you are saying but it’s a gate valve . So 20 lbs max and seal other side of cac thank you
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Old 09-09-2019, 02:36 PM   #12
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As CountryB said you have to cap off the intake end of the pipe as it will go through the
engine. The second fuel filter is on the left side of the engine at the rear under the intake
manifold, remember the engine is in backwards so the front of the engine is at the
rear of the coach. The fuel filter is hard to see. When I bought my coach it had never
been changed.
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Old 09-09-2019, 02:50 PM   #13
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Easy to check the complete intake system by capping the turbo intake after the air filter. Preferably at the turbo itself.
Put a plastic bag on the tail pipe. Just use some tape to hold it on.
Put about 5-10 psi. air pressure on the system and have a quick look to see if the plastic bag is filling up with air. It shouldn't, but if it does, just turn the motor over by hand a bit to stop the air. That will close the valves that may be bypassing the air.
Now get your trusty spray bottle with some dish soap and water. Spray it everywhere you can. Along the piping from the turbo to the CAC, then all along both ends of the CAC where the tubes are welded to the tanks.
Next go from the CAC to the cylinder head.
Finally take a good look at the exhaust manifold and turbo mount area. Leaks in this area should show traces of black soot.
Hope that helps.
Happy Glamping.
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Old 09-09-2019, 03:19 PM   #14
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When you mentioned having a Winn fuel filter system it got me to remembering
having read on here that system has been known to cause problems .
It went out of production maybe that's why .
Since it is also you primer you really need something similar to take its place
if it is causing problems .
Here is a link to another thread you may want to read

Ray

Winn fuel filter water separator primer pump system
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