Can't start the coach.

[-Gramps-]

I can't figure out if this is a chassis problem or a house problem. The coach started as normal my last time out, but I turned it off for just a few minutes before pulling out of the driveway. After that it would not turn over at all, no dash lights, no click, no dome light, and the steps would not operate. I checked the battery voltage and it was a bit low at eleven volts. I couldn't figure out what was wrong, but I tried the battery boost and it started. The battery boost also gave me my dome light and powered the steps, they also worked while the engine was running. After our trip I found two dry chassis battery cells. I filled them with distilled water and put the battery on a trickle charge. My coach does not charge the chassis when on shore power. I left the charge on for most of a day. When I checked it last night the dome light was back on and the steps worked. This moring I was able to start the rig normally without the boost twice. While the engine was running I checked the voltage to both the house and chassis batteries, the house showed 13.1, the chassis just over 12. I don't think the chassis was getting a charge. I shut the engine down and then tried to start it a third time. The dash lite up for a second and then when blank. I started with the booster, shut the engine down, before I deployed the steps, I had to use the booster to do that then it went dead as well. I can't start the engine at all now, the generator will turn over. This one has me stumped.

Any ideas?

[GaryKD]

Hi -Gramps-,
Get the engine started. Check the VDC coming from the engine alternator/generator. It should be around 14.5 VDC. If the VDC is good, make the same check at the batteries. The VDC reading should be the same. If not, the problem is between the battery and the alternator/generator. The above mentioned check tells you if your alternator/generator is putting out the correct VDC.

Disconnect the chassis batteries from the engine.
1. Fully charge them with a portable charger.
2. Let them sit for a couple of hours.
3. The VDC reading should be 12.6 or more. If not 12.6 VDC the batteries are not accepting a full charge. They may need to be replaced.
4. Let them sit for a week.
5. Take a VDC reading. The reading should be 12.6 or more. If not 12.6 VDC the batteries are self discharging too fast. This may be due to a shorted cell. The batteries may need to be replaced.
6. Take the batteries to your local auto parts store. Ask for a load check.
These steps will tell you the condition of your batteries.

Also look down the sides of the batteries. Are they straight or bowed to the outside (even a little). If bowed, the batteries need replacing.

[Dr4Film]

I would dare say that with having 2 dry cells on your battery, it is history. It probably has enough to power something small, but when it comes to delivering significant amps to the starter, it doesn't have it to deliver without using your battery boost.

A quick way to test the cells is use charge the battery fully with a portable battery charger, then using a battery hydrometer, measure each cell to see what the specific gravity is for each one. I would imagine that you will find them not to be within spec's.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

[-Gramps-]

Gary, I have had the chassis battery on a trickle charger for a couple of hours. I just went out to the coach and the dome light was back on. This is obviously a voltage problem with the chassis battery or something between the battery and the dash. When I can't start the coach I also can't turn on my headlights either. I think the first thing to do is as you suggested. I will pull the chassis battery and take it to Autozone and have them check it. I think I will also purchase a Trik L Start and install it as well. That should help since my coach does not have a BIRD relay.

[Dr4Film]

Quote:

Originally Posted by -Gramps- I will pull the chassis battery and take it to Autozone and have them check it. I think I will also purchase a Trik L Start and install it as well. That should help since my coach does not have a BIRD relay.

Gramps,

Having AutoZone check the battery is a great idea. They can tell you whether each of the cells are working properly. I would suggest not using a trickle charger but rather a battery maintainer. They are a bit more expensive but will keep you battery in better condition in that it won't be over cooked by the trickle charger. Check out the functions of both to see how each one operates and then make a decision. I am sure you will decide on the maintainer versus the trickle charger.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

[Wayne M]

Gramps,
Consider the Battery Minder

A little on the pricey side, but worth the money as it is a desulfinaor also.

[depchief]

Gramps
I would say the battery is done. When you have dry cells that is the death notice. When you have AutoZone check it they will say it needs replacement. The battery will charge but will loose the charge when you apply a load such as starting.

When you replace make sure that you check all the ground connections, trace the negative wire to the ground point.

I have not had any luck with Exide batteries, try to stay away from them.

[bullydogs1]

Derrick...

With two dry cells, it points to the battery...but check your connections as well as I've seen post connections go intermittent just like this....of course, if you replace the battery, you redo the post connection thus fixing it..If battery passes load test, redo the connections...if it doesn't...scratch one battery....that stinks that you don't recharge on shore power...I do have the BIRD and my chassis is supposed to charge on shore power....I guess I'll find out later in the week as the batteries are on and the coach is hooked up to electricity at my storage yard. So far, no issues with batteries, but I check them every week and watch the charge rate to make sure the batteries don't boil.

[-Gramps-]

Stuart, the coach manual shows a BIRD located in the front electrical bay (it would be easy to spot under the big black box if it were there) but the coach doesn't have one. That is what the Trik L Start, which I have heard is standard on Winies is for. It is a battery minder and maintainer and runs completly off 12 volts. I think my iso relay is tripping because the chassis battery drops its charge so fast especially with it being so cold. Once the relay trips I lose all 12 volts from the chassis battery and so the steps quit working and so does my cockpit dome light. And depchief it is an 18 month old 72 month Exide battery!

[LVJ58]

Gramps, if when your engine is running and you're not getting 13 or 14+ volts to your chassis battery, it's sounds you may have a bad contact in your isolator solenoid on the chassis battery side. Just a thought. I had one go bad on the house battery side in our coach and had to replace the isolator solenoid.

Good luck finding and fixing your problem.

[Snowman 1]

We had a similar problem awhile back in our coach. Turned out it was a bad chassis battery disconnect switch in the back electrical compartment. Bypassed the switch while a new one was being ordered. That one then proceeded to fry itself going over the passes near Grants Pass, OR. Not a good place to have mechanical breakdowns but that's another story. Anyway, any more problems with the OEM Guest switches and I'll be installing heavy duty switches.

[-Gramps-]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snowman 1 We had a similar problem awhile back in our coach. Turned out it was a bad chassis battery disconnect switch in the back electrical compartment. Bypassed the switch while a new one was being ordered. That one then proceeded to fry itself going over the passes near Grants Pass, OR. Not a good place to have mechanical breakdowns but that's another story. Anyway, any more problems with the OEM Guest switches and I'll be installing heavy duty switches.

What does that disconnect switch look like? Does it have a red knob that you turn?

[Diplomat Don]

Gramps....One other thing for the batteries....You can't test dead batteries. AutoZone is going to throw a load tester on it, which basically shorts the battery during the test. What most people don't know is that you can't test them when they're drained. You need to throw a charger on them for a sufficient amount of time. If you're using a charger that charges at 6 amps, it's going to a couple of days to put a full charge on them.

[Snowman 1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by -Gramps- What does that disconnect switch look like? Does it have a red knob that you turn?

I think it's either black or orange and says "GUEST" right on it. It's ON/OFF. They're a marine application Monaco put on their coaches for several years. They've gone to a different manufacturer now.