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Old 01-11-2014, 04:09 PM   #1
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Captains chairs lost power

Hi,
Both of my chairs lost power at the same time any one have any idea as to where to look for a fuse?
I check the front left box no fuse there.
the rear right box no fuse there can some one shed some light on this?

Thanks.... mike
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:31 PM   #2
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My seats have a circuit breaker in the front bay under the driver side. They should reset themselves. Strange they both went out at the same time.
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:39 AM   #3
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You may think this is odd, but do's you tachometer work? I had a bad ground took out the fuel gauge,tach, and the seats. Try running a ground wire straight to the chair
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorlininc View Post
My seats have a circuit breaker in the front bay under the driver side. They should reset themselves. Strange they both went out at the same time.
Yes I found the breaker, I must a look in that bay and the schematic several times and never saw the breakers,
apparently it dint reset and what I did temporarily is the bridge over to the hookups lag.
Both chairs are connected on the same breaker, so now since is not resetting do I need a new one?
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Monaco View Post
You may think this is odd, but do's you tachometer work? I had a bad ground took out the fuel gauge,tach, and the seats. Try running a ground wire straight to the chair
Yes the tach is working........
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:33 PM   #6
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On ours the radio switch on the front dash will control the power for the chairs as well.
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:12 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Inventor View Post
Yes I found the breaker, I must a look in that bay and the schematic several times and never saw the breakers,
apparently it dint reset and what I did temporarily is the bridge over to the hookups lag.
Both chairs are connected on the same breaker, so now since is not resetting do I need a new one?
Mike,

I suggest you either replace the circuit breaker or as a minimum install an inline fuse. You can purchase an inline fuse at auto stores. You don't want to take a chance that a short circuit will melt your wiring. It could even cause a fire or the fumes from the burning wires could harm your animals if you have any.

Here is an example of an inline fuse available at Advanced Auto:
Bussmann In-Line Fuse Holder for ATC Fuses BP/HHD-30-RP: Get the best Fuse Blocks & Holders at Advance Auto Parts

Bob
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:29 AM   #8
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Hi Conmoto. I don't think the radio switch should have anything to do with your chairs. Sounds like some wires are crossed.
I'd be surprised if both seats are on the same circuit from the factory. Maybe a PO rewired it that way.
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:41 AM   #9
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Thanks nodine
what amp fuse you thing I need?
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:46 PM   #10
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I am sorry, I was completely wrong with my post! Everyone please disregard all future responses from me.....
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:06 AM   #11
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Thanks nodine
what amp fuse you thing I need?
Mike,

If you can read the current rating on the failed circuit breaker then use that size fuse. If not then I would suggest a 20 amp fuse.

Bob
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:34 AM   #12
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Both chairs are connected on the same breaker, so now since is not resetting do I need a new one?
Yes, I would replace the breaker, it's the best and cleanest solution. Better than splicing in a new fuse from a new power source.

Pull out the old breaker to see the rating, you should be able to find a replacement at any auto parts store. But before trying to disconnect anything from that heavy bus bar, make sure the power is off - either with a battery disconnect switch or by pulling the NEGATIVE cable(s) off of the battery(s.)

You want to do this because if your wrench happens to hit a ground (just about any exposed metal on the rig) while you're working on that bus bar, it can ruin your day since a short like that would have a LOT of current running through it. That's the same reason you disconnect the negative side of the battery first, so you don't have to worry about your wrench hitting ground when doing the positive side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nodine View Post
I suggest you either replace the circuit breaker or as a minimum install an inline fuse. You can purchase an inline fuse at auto stores. You don't want to take a chance that a short circuit will melt your wiring. It could even cause a fire or the fumes from the burning wires could harm your animals if you have any.
Normally a valid concern. But if you look closely at his picture, you can see that he didn't just jump over the failed breaker (which would be a bad thing to do without a fuse.) What he did was jump over to the output of another breaker. The wiring is protected (assuming the working breaker is rated same or lower than the failed breaker.) The issue is that now two circuits are fed from one breaker, increasing the chances of overloading that breaker and causing nuisance tripping. Since the seats normally don't use any power (except when being adjusted) the chances of a nuisance overload are low, but it is still there.

Of course, if the adjacent breaker that is now supplying power to the seats is rated significantly higher than the original seat breaker, there is the chance that the seat wiring could be exposed to overloading and damage. (Not because a higher capacity breaker will force more current through the line, but it will allow more current if there is a problem.)

This was a good emergency fix, but the real fix is to replace that breaker and return the wiring to the original state.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:24 AM   #13
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breaker location

Dumb question but in the picture what does the breaker look like?

Jim
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:14 PM   #14
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Dumb question but in the picture what does the breaker look like?

Jim
Not at all dumb. I know exactly what they look like, and it still took me a bit to find them...

There are five breakers in Inventor's picture above. They are small metal cans, with black plastic bottoms, and two machine screws for terminals.. Mostly, you can only see the bottom. One terminal of each is connected to the vertical copper buss-bar. The other terminal has one or more wires with ring terminals, held on with a nut. The power comes in on the big red cable, is distributed by the buss-bar, and then goes out to individual circuits on the smaller wires.

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