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Old 12-24-2016, 05:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonNBama View Post
Duh! I have Good Sam Roadside! Wonder if it will cover "garage side"?

Ron,

Most hydraulic jacks have release valves at the pump body. Maybe you could open those valves and pry the jacks up with a crow bar.

Bob
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Old 12-28-2016, 07:09 PM   #16
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Whew! Finally solved my problem(s) by applying the KISS principle. Was able to raise/tilt front battery enough to slide it over the lip of the tray. Fortunately, I was wearing safety toe boots when it cleared the tray!

The resting voltage of one unit was 5.8V with 7.2V on the other. Jumper cables from toad with battery boost switch activated had minimal effect (affect?) on the starter.

In the schematics, there is a component called a "200 amp Dual Battery Isolator". Does this gadget allow the shore power/inverter-charger to keep both the chassis and the domestic battery banks charged?

Thanks for the suggestions and pointers. I probably should have tested my Good Sam assistance policy and saved myself a lot of stress and skinned knuckles!
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:05 AM   #17
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Dual battery isolators don't work to keep the chassis battery charged in storage.

In newer systems, isolation relays connect the battery banks together.

With diode based isolators, like yours, all the alternator output is directed to it. It then sends the output to both battery banks. It is basicly a one way device.

If not already installed, you need something to maintain your chassis battery.

A Trik L Start is popular. It takes some of the charge current, going to the house bank, and sends it to the chassis battery.
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:27 AM   #18
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Thank you for that explanation twinboat. After posting the question, I found tophog's thread and realized that there is a lot more to this system than I ever imagined!
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