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Old 08-19-2011, 03:22 PM   #1
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Chassis Battery Negative Post Switch

Has any one tried using a negative post battery switch on their chassis batterys? I have parasitic loads on my chassis battery while in storage even when both chassis and coach main battery disconnect switches are turned off.
I have noticed 3 wires coming directly off the positive side of the chassis battery not going thru the main cutoff switches.
Somewhere i've read that the engine and trans ECU's need constant power as well as propane monitors.

Your Thoughts

zsss
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Old 08-19-2011, 03:41 PM   #2
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I used on on a previous coach with no problem. You will loose the programming of your radio but that is no big deal. Should not have a problem with other systems that are not powered.

I now use a 15-watt solar cell and it does a good job of keeping the batteries topped off in storage. I have a Trik-L-Start connected between the house and chassis batteries. Some will say this is not enough power to charge the batteries, but in fact it does. I also exercise the generator every 30 days while in storage.
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:29 AM   #3
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zzzs:
If you store your rig outdoors, then Rex's recommendation (using your installed solar panel) should keep both banks charged. Problem is that (in Monaco's great wisdom), they only provide solar charging juice to the house batts.
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Old 08-21-2011, 11:50 AM   #4
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Hi Robi

We store indoors so the solar panels don't work, we used to plug in but on 2 ocasions we found the chassis battery dead and the 20amp circut breaker tripped. Not sure why the power tripped I did check and change the inverter amp draw for charging from 15 amps to 10 but haven't tried it again for fear of destroying our chassis batteries. They can only take so many dead cycles.
I think the reason the chassis batteries died was the xantrex inverter.
Whenplugged in to AC, the inverter must be set to Charge and when AC power is lost it takes power from where ever it can the chassis battery.

So now we don't plug in and turn off the battery switches.

I plan on using a negative battery post switch for the chassis batteries because there are three hot wires going from the positive battery post to some where. I think these are parasitic loads that bypass the battery disconnect switch although it's hard to believe that these loads can draw down 2 heavy duty batteries in amatter of 2 to 3 weeks.

I'm currently lose 20% power every week using the battery disconnect switch.
I wonder where those hot leads go what will happen when I disconnect for an extended period.

ZZZS
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:09 PM   #5
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I wonder where those hot leads go what will happen when I disconnect for an extended period.
While I don't own your brand RV - it's common on many rigs to use the chassis battery as a "backup" alternative source of power to the electric steps as well as fire/carbon monoxide/propane detectors - my guess is those small wires are connected to these devices. Turning those off while the rig is stored won't harm anything.

To my knowledge the only downside of turning off the chassis battery is that your rig might run lousy for a short time while the on board computer resets itself - unless your going straight to the DMV for a smog check then that should not pose a problem.
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzzs View Post
Hi Robi

We store indoors so the solar panels don't work, we used to plug in but on 2 ocasions we found the chassis battery dead and the 20amp circut breaker tripped. Not sure why the power tripped I did check and change the inverter amp draw for charging from 15 amps to 10 but haven't tried it again for fear of destroying our chassis batteries. They can only take so many dead cycles.
I think the reason the chassis batteries died was the xantrex inverter.
Whenplugged in to AC, the inverter must be set to Charge and when AC power is lost it takes power from where ever it can the chassis battery.

So now we don't plug in and turn off the battery switches.

I plan on using a negative battery post switch for the chassis batteries because there are three hot wires going from the positive battery post to some where. I think these are parasitic loads that bypass the battery disconnect switch although it's hard to believe that these loads can draw down 2 heavy duty batteries in amatter of 2 to 3 weeks.

I'm currently lose 20% power every week using the battery disconnect switch.
I wonder where those hot leads go what will happen when I disconnect for an extended period.

ZZZS
If it was me, I'd move those non-critical direct wires to the other side of your battery disconnect. I would also ensure they have in-line fuses installed. I wouldn't think the engine computer memory would use too much juice to maintain but I would move those other loads..I'm thinking that would be better than adding another switch to remember or fail on me..
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