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Old 03-11-2016, 07:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Just a shot in the dark- Can you take a picture of the inside of your Front Distribution Panel?
Ray (N Pela)-

... or, as "Jeff753" points out, your coach might have the interesting stuff to photograph in the "rear high current run bay." Basically, post a picture of the bay with the large battery wires and the electronics, but may not be the same bay as the batteries themselves.
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:03 PM   #16
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Here's what I haveClick image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByiRV2 - RV Forum1457820088.688553.jpg
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Name:	ImageUploadedByiRV2 - RV Forum1457820144.579620.jpg
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Name:	ImageUploadedByiRV2 - RV Forum1457820173.500561.jpg
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobRoy View Post
So it appears at this point you need the build sheet for your MMY coach along with the wiring schematics, because without one of them (both preferred) everything will be just a crap shoot.



FYI I have found that my owners manual at times can be very general and generic and not vehicle build specific.





Happy Hunting

How do I go about getting a build sheet and wiring schematics???
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:14 AM   #18
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To troubleshoot this solenoid which is a very common failure item you need take just a few measurements.

Measure the voltage on each side of the relay/solenoid. They should be the same as right at the battery. In this case you have indicated the batteries are at different charge states (voltage level), so that should be reflected on the large connectors. Loose connections can cause all kinds of issues not likely in this case.

Now measure the voltage on the small terminals. You should have 12.5 approximately on one and zero on the other. If so, feel the relay, it is probably warm or even hot.

If you do not have the control voltage there have someone press your Aux start button. You may need the ign key on for this.

If you do have the control voltage on the little terminals your voltage on each side of the solenoid should be the same, if not, time for a replacement.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Trombetta.pdf (1.07 MB, 70 views)
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:17 AM   #19
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Not part of the issue but is that a solar controller I see in the top right hand side?
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:35 AM   #20
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Not part of the issue but is that a solar controller I see in the top right hand side?

I have not done any changes or disconnected any wires"in reference to your pdf" and yes that is a solar controller.
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:32 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff753 View Post
My dynasty has a lambert maintainer in the right rear high current run bay

It's on the right in the photo.


Jeff
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I hate to chime in with just a "me too" post, but . . . my coach also had the maintainer. I also had a chassis battery failure after leaving the coach for a while. I replaced the maintainer with a Trik-L-Start and haven't had the problem since.

I'm very satisfied with the Trik-L-Start. At less than $40, it was an easy choice.
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Old 03-15-2016, 02:11 PM   #22
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I am having problems with the charging system in my Thor RV. I have a Trombetta and Gas potted BIRD controller which is supposed to allow both the house and chassis batteries to be charged simultaneously. It works perfectly from the engine and alternator side. The Trombetta is open and the systems separate with the engine off. With the engine on, the alternator put it 14.1 V and in about 2 minutes the BIRD closes the Trombetta and charges both battery banks. When the engine is turned off, after a period of time, the Trombetta opens and separates the two banks. When I turn the generator on or plug into shore power, however, the Trombetta never closes even when the house battery bank reaches 13.6v. The documentation says it should open and charge both banks when the charge on the house batteries reaches 13.1-13.3v. It does not. It seems that the Trombetta may not be opening at 13.3 or even 13.6 v but will open at 14.1. My question is, is this a Trombetta or a BIRD issue and how can I tell? Since the Trombetta works when the alternator is charging can I assume that it is not the problem? Or is it possible that the Trombetta will close at 14.1v but not at 13.6v? Or is the BIRD faulty and closes the Trombetta at 14.1v but not 13.6? This is a real head knocker. The Trombetta is only about $25 while the BIRD is around $85. So I don't want to buy a new BIRD (or Trombetta for that matter) if I do not have to. Thanks for any comments or help.
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Old 03-15-2016, 02:46 PM   #23
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I am having problems with the charging system in my Thor RV. I have a Trombetta and Gas potted BIRD controller which is supposed to allow both the house and chassis batteries to be charged simultaneously. It works perfectly from the engine and alternator side. The Trombetta is open and the systems separate with the engine off. With the engine on, the alternator put it 14.1 V and in about 2 minutes the BIRD closes the Trombetta and charges both battery banks. When the engine is turned off, after a period of time, the Trombetta opens and separates the two banks. When I turn the generator on or plug into shore power, however, the Trombetta never closes even when the house battery bank reaches 13.6v. The documentation says it should open and charge both banks when the charge on the house batteries reaches 13.1-13.3v. It does not. It seems that the Trombetta may not be opening at 13.3 or even 13.6 v but will open at 14.1. My question is, is this a Trombetta or a BIRD issue and how can I tell? Since the Trombetta works when the alternator is charging can I assume that it is not the problem? Or is it possible that the Trombetta will close at 14.1v but not at 13.6v? Or is the BIRD faulty and closes the Trombetta at 14.1v but not 13.6? This is a real head knocker. The Trombetta is only about $25 while the BIRD is around $85. So I don't want to buy a new BIRD (or Trombetta for that matter) if I do not have to. Thanks for any comments or help.
Since the system works in one direction, I would be looking at sense wire from the BIRD to the house battery. It needs to see house battery voltage to work.

Could be a fuse, bad or broken connection.
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:33 PM   #24
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I have a 2006 Monaco Camelot. The standard setup is for shore power NOT to charge the chassis batteries. I had a duel relay isolator installed so that I get EQUAL charging to the chassis and house batteries. If you get an isolator installed, make sure that you have equal charging. It takes the duel relay setup.
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:54 PM   #25
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I have a 2006 Monaco Camelot. The standard setup is for shore power NOT to charge the chassis batteries. I had a duel relay isolator installed so that I get EQUAL charging to the chassis and house batteries. If you get an isolator installed, make sure that you have equal charging. It takes the duel relay setup.
You may have had a IRD, ( Isolator Relay with Delay )

You had it replaced with a BIRD, ( Bi-directonal Isolator Relay with Delay )
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:35 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by YC1 View Post
To troubleshoot this solenoid which is a very common failure item you need take just a few measurements.

Measure the voltage on each side of the relay/solenoid. They should be the same as right at the battery. In this case you have indicated the batteries are at different charge states (voltage level), so that should be reflected on the large connectors. Loose connections can cause all kinds of issues not likely in this case.

Now measure the voltage on the small terminals. You should have 12.5 approximately on one and zero on the other. If so, feel the relay, it is probably warm or even hot.

If you do not have the control voltage there have someone press your Aux start button. You may need the ign key on for this.

If you do have the control voltage on the little terminals your voltage on each side of the solenoid should be the same, if not, time for a replacement.

Thanks YCI I checked the voltages on big cables on either side of trombotta solenoid and they are not equal...auxiliary start works fine, have to change solenoid when I get home, I'm on the road now.
I will post results after install.. Thanks
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Old 03-16-2016, 03:32 AM   #27
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Ray, as a temporary fix you can stack the large cables together on one side. I am curious that you say the aux start works fine.

Do you mean the voltage gets to the solenoid and the voltage on each cable then becomes the same? If so, the solenoid is ok.
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:47 AM   #28
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Since the system works in one direction, I would be looking at sense wire from the BIRD to the house battery. It needs to see house battery voltage to work.

Could be a fuse, bad or broken connection.
I think you may have hit the nail on the head. The red (coach battery wire) from the BIRD should connect to the house batteries via a fuse. While Thor chose to connect the ignition wire directly to the Trombetta via a fuse, the coach battery wire goes off into the innards of the RV. I guess I need to cut that wire and see if there is any current coming from the coach battery. If not, do you see any reason why I cannot connect the red coach wire from the BIRD directly to the coach battery side of the Trombetta via a fuse? From the BIRD documentation, I do not see any other place it should go except directly to the coach batteries. And it should make no difference where along that line (coach batteries to Trombetta) that I connect it? Thanks for your help.
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