Chassis Battery Not Charging

[RickGyver]

I've done a forum and internet search but now need to reach out to this forum. My '95 Dynasty (low mileage) has a Hehr alternator, external regulator and isolator. I get no charge to chassis battery. Tachometer doesn't work and volt gauge shows discharge.(below12V) It normally jumps up to 14V on start.The yellow stator LED lite doesn't come on at run. I am approaching the end of my patience! I am starting to suspect the regulator but it tested ok yesterday ! YC1 has alot of 12V experience and has been helping me. I hate to start throwing parts at it. I hope someone who has had a similar system will read this and can shed some light. I've done all the obvious checks. Yes, I own several VOM's.Thx

[Shadowcatche]

What are the actual voltages you are getting. As you point out you should be seeing about 14.5V at the battery with the engine running. Are you seeing any voltage change at the battery with the engine running vs not running (measured with VOM)? What is being put into the regulator and what is coming out?

The tach not working implies some fairly deep seated failure.

Places like AutoZone will test the system free (in the expectation you will buy their parts).

[Jimmy F]

RickGyver,

Maybe this will help you out.
http://www.hehr-international.com/pd...ALTERNATOR.pdf

I had trouble with my house batteries not charging this summer but my problem was 1/2 the battery isolator was burned out. Also I had to change the regulator because it was over charging. The regulator is from a Ford, F540XHD, available from auto part stores.


Jimmy

[86 Cavalcade]

RickGyver, If you have a 3 terminal battery isolator test the center terminal. This is the alternator lead from the alternator. If you have 14 to 14.5 volts with the engine running your battery isolator is bad. Since your tach does not work either that is fed from the a field of the alternator. That would lead me to believe you are going to be looking at an alternator problem. You could also test to make sure when the key is on you have 12v at the ignition excite post on your alternator. George R. 2001 Diplomat

[86 Cavalcade]

RickGyver, My tach is fed from the engine ECM. I have heard that the earlier coach's were fed from the field of the alternator. I don't want to say where your tach is fed from because I don't want to say something that I am not sure of. George R. 2001 Diplomat

[walt2137]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickGyver I've done a forum and internet search but now need to reach out to this forum. My '95 Dynasty (low mileage) has a Hehr alternator, external regulator and isolator. I get no charge to chassis battery. Tachometer doesn't work and volt gauge shows discharge.(below12V) It normally jumps up to 14V on start.The yellow stator LED lite doesn't come on at run. I am approaching the end of my patience! I am starting to suspect the regulator but it tested ok yesterday ! YC1 has alot of 12V experience and has been helping me. I hate to start throwing parts at it. I hope someone who has had a similar system will read this and can shed some light. I've done all the obvious checks. Yes, I own several VOM's.Thx

Your Tac is fed from the Alternator so that mean alternator needs repairing Reg and since you tested the reg OK that would leave the Alt, I would remove it and have it repaired cost should be $150 +-
The later coaches Tac were fed from the ECM.

[Nuge]

I did an extensive write up on how to isolate battery, alternator, and regulator problems in post 26 here:

No battery charge. Stranded in Wichita

[RickGyver]

I had the alternator bench tested and ckecks good. The '95 was the last year Monaco used the Hehr components which concerns me. The problem is intermitent which is in itself an issue. The regulator has 4 LED's and the stator lite doesn't light and should when engine is running. VOM checks are all good except the stator signal. Alternator is $850+ and regulator $250+ so I want to exhaust all possibilities.thx

[RickGyver]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy F RickGyver, Maybe this will help you out. http://www.hehr-international.com/pd...ALTERNATOR.pdf I had trouble with my house batteries not charging this summer but my problem was 1/2 the battery isolator was burned out. Also I had to change the regulator because it was over charging. The regulator is from a Ford, F540XHD, available from auto part stores. Jimmy

Sounds like you would have some good information I could use since we have the same rigs. Send me a PM ,,please. thx

[Nuge]

The main wear point in any alternator is it's brushes; could they be worn? In a most any troubleshooting procedure it's a good idea to check all interconnecting cables and wires..

[RickGyver]

Jimmy,,,, What year Ford ?? thx

[Jimmy F]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickGyver Jimmy,,,, What year Ford ?? thx

(1992-73) Ford, Lincoln, Mercury

Part No. F540XHD Ford OE# D9PZ-10316-A, E2PZ-10316-A, F0AZ-10316-A, F0PZ-10316-A, E4AZ-10316-B, GR-540-A, GR-540-B, GR-803


Jimmy

[bluepill]

Does your alternator support a "full field test"? If so, it's a good place to start.

[Jimmy F]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy F (1992-73) Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Part No. F540XHD Ford OE# D9PZ-10316-A, E2PZ-10316-A, F0AZ-10316-A, F0PZ-10316-A, E4AZ-10316-B, GR-540-A, GR-540-B, GR-803 Jimmy

Well here we go...same year Monaco, same model, different stuff! Why did they do that?
I just realized that you talked about LED lights in your first post so you must have the OTHER regulator. You must have the 10-170 or the 10-172 regulator.

There is a trouble shooting section in the Hehr document I linked to above for that regulator as well.

Did you get my PM?

Jimmy