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Old 12-27-2012, 11:30 PM   #1
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cigarette lighter

Mine is a 2006 Diplomat.


One of my cigarette lighter outlets is not working.

I checked all the fuses in the front run bay; all seem good.
All the fuses there a labeled but none are called cigarette lighters.

What does Monaco call them (how might it be labeled) ?

The one by the passengers feet location is fine, the one in
the center of the dash has no power.


Thanks!
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:45 PM   #2
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By the way, I looked at the large fuse chart on the black plastic
fuse cover and did not see the correct one.
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:02 AM   #3
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Look for power port, accessory power, etc
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:00 AM   #4
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Some lighters don't work unless the ignition is on.

Mine draw their power from the two house batteries and not the engine battery.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:05 AM   #5
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On my 08 they are in parallel. You may just have a wire off the back side. We call them power points in our shop.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:57 AM   #6
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On our 07 Diplomat the fuse is located in the big fuse box in the front left compartment (under the drivers seat).

The fuse is no 1-58 and is labelled SERV.LT/AUX 12V PWR.
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Danes Are Coming View Post
On our 07 Diplomat the fuse is located in the big fuse box in the front left compartment (under the drivers seat).

The fuse is no 1-58 and is labelled SERV.LT/AUX 12V PWR.
Top row - far left... Ours is almost hidden.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdennislee View Post
Look for power port, accessory power, etc
Good advice, since Smoking is now politically incorrect they no longer put lighters in the socket, soem of them won't even work with a lighter, they call them "Accessory sockets" now days.

To the O/P.. you said "One of them" My Damon came with two of them, now has. 7 (I added a few) ONE is a "chassis" device and is on one of the TWO chassis fuse blocks I have.. The rest are HOUSE devices and are on the HOUSE fuse block.

Recently I blew a fuse in a motor home I was working on.. Took my volt meter and went down the lien.. Blade fuses have a pair of small holes in the "Top" of the fuse, You stick the two VM probes throug the hoels (NOTE: Use a digital meter please)

ZERO, ZERO, ZERO ZERo 13.6 ZERO

Pulled the 13.6 one and sure enough, it was popped.

Why use a digital? Well it might be -13.6
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:18 AM   #9
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When testing our fuses is better to use voltage or continuity
on a digital multi meter?

Does one method have an advantage over the other?




Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Good advice, since Smoking is now politically incorrect they no longer put lighters in the socket, soem of them won't even work with a lighter, they call them "Accessory sockets" now days.

To the O/P.. you said "One of them" My Damon came with two of them, now has. 7 (I added a few) ONE is a "chassis" device and is on one of the TWO chassis fuse blocks I have.. The rest are HOUSE devices and are on the HOUSE fuse block.

Recently I blew a fuse in a motor home I was working on.. Took my volt meter and went down the lien.. Blade fuses have a pair of small holes in the "Top" of the fuse, You stick the two VM probes throug the hoels (NOTE: Use a digital meter please)

ZERO, ZERO, ZERO ZERo 13.6 ZERO

Pulled the 13.6 one and sure enough, it was popped.

Why use a digital? Well it might be -13.6
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:26 AM   #10
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If in the circuit use a voltmeter. If not in circuit then ohmmeter.
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:37 PM   #11
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Oh, another way to volt meter if you have a known ground handy...... (I did not but I left a switch on so I knew the fuse had load)

Black lead to ground (Analog or digital volt meter or better yet a test light)

Touch one end then the other of each fuse

If using test light then:

light-light = good

Light-dark or dark-light = bad

If using meter LIGHT = battery voltage Dark = zero voltage.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:53 PM   #12
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You have a good ground if you drag the shoreline cord out and connect to the ground lead of that. No guessing that way.

I prefer to ground one lead and probe each end of the fuse. Trying to get two probes on one small fuse can be nearly impossible in some places. I agree that a test light is even better because it puts a load on the circuit and you can get tricked with a digital voltmeter. Recently I found a test light with a build in voltmeter. I didn't buy it but still might. At $150 it was a bit pricey even though I have tens of thousands in test equipment already.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:28 PM   #13
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In my car I looked and looked to figure out why I wasn't getting power to lighter outlet. Finally it hit me that maybe the outlet itself was bad. Pulled it checked the voltage right there at the outlet, was getting 12 volts. Checked the outlet with ohmeter and sure enough the outlet itself was bad!
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:20 AM   #14
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And some add on items will have an inline fuse in the line that feeds the 12 vdc port. Check the feed line to the port.

Ken
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