Coolant change, is a step missing in the manual?

[Letsgoagain]

Good evening,
Its time for my first engine coolant change and I've decided to replace the current green coolant with the new red OAT(organic acid technology) coolant.
I've read all the posts in the Cummins forum and haven't seen much mention of what I'm about to ask.
To do this requires me to flush out the old green coolant.The steps in the manual say to open the drain valve and flush the radiator with water to get all the old coolant out but no where does it mention turning on the front dash heater.
It seems to me that to flush the coolant out of the line that provides the heat exchange for the heater up front would require me to turn it on to get it flowing.
Have any of you done the change yourself and does your manual list the step to turn on the dash heater? Appreciate any help.
Letsgoagain

[Letsgoagain]

Good evening,
Its time for my first engine coolant change and I've decided to replace the current green coolant with the new red OAT(organic acid technology) coolant.
I've read all the posts in the Cummins forum and haven't seen much mention of what I'm about to ask.
To do this requires me to flush out the old green coolant.The steps in the manual say to open the drain valve and flush the radiator with water to get all the old coolant out but no where does it mention turning on the front dash heater.
It seems to me that to flush the coolant out of the line that provides the heat exchange for the heater up front would require me to turn it on to get it flowing.
Have any of you done the change yourself and does your manual list the step to turn on the dash heater? Appreciate any help.
Letsgoagain

[MonacoMama]

Letsgoagain...
I am also going to shortcut this to the Cummins forum....

MM

[Letsgoagain]

MonacoMama,
Okay, thanks for the shortcut. I believe I read a post in the Cummins forum from a Newmar member about this specific step being in his procedure.
Maybe this will give it the visibility over there and the same person will respond.
Still though, I wonder if its not something that should be done on the Monaco, Holiday Rambler \Roadmaster chassis.
Best regards,
Letsgoagain

[Ecker]

FWIW - I can't answer your specific question but can say that it is not necessary to drain old coolant, if its good, in order to use OAT.
You can get some test strips from Cummins Filtration CC2718 Quik-Chek 3-Way Coolant Quality Test Kit and if found good then use CC2778 ES Compleat OAT Converter. Both these products should be available at a Cummins Distributor or dealer.

[Letsgoagain]

Ecker,
Thanks for the reply. I understand what you are saying about converting it over but I'm wondering if the 24 month coolant change in the manual is more for getting any old stuff out and inspecting the system and changeing the thermostat.
Believe me I would rather not go through the process of draining the old out. Kind of at a loss here on whether to drain it or not.
I have tested the coolant regularly although the test strips I used have a # as CC260A. Not sure if this tests different things then what you are referring to. My precharge of SCA is getting on the low side, 1.2 on my scale. I have added the DCA4 in the past to bring it up but now since the #'s are back down and the 24 months is actually past has led me to believe its time to change it out.
would value your opinion on how you would approach changeing it or not.
Letsgoagain

[cb5300]

Just take it to the Cummins dealer and have him change it. No mess, no fuss...You also don't have to worry about getting rid of the old stuff you drained out.

[nutensteve]

I'm with cb....take it to the Cummins shop ....but I'm kinda lazy and always take the easy way....probably why I'm broke lol

[Les Stallings]

I worked a deal with Cummins Crosspoint (Nashville) to drain and refill with new coolant, a new filter, and proper adjustment of DCA. Their drain and FLUSH was very expensive and they recommended a much cheaper drain and fill for systems that had been properly maintained. The shop time is greatly reduced, so the cost is much less.

I believe it ended up in the $350 range, parts and labor, Cummins Power Club discount applied.

[Ecker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Letsgoagain:
Ecker,
Thanks for the reply. I understand what you are saying about converting it over but I'm wondering if the 24 month coolant change in the manual is more for getting any old stuff out and inspecting the system and changeing the thermostat.
Believe me I would rather not go through the process of draining the old out. Kind of at a loss here on whether to drain it or not.
I have tested the coolant regularly although the test strips I used have a # as CC260A. Not sure if this tests different things then what you are referring to. My precharge of SCA is getting on the low side, 1.2 on my scale. I have added the DCA4 in the past to bring it up but now since the #'s are back down and the 24 months is actually past has led me to believe its time to change it out.
would value your opinion on how you would approach changeing it or not.
Letsgoagain </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Cummins Filtration states that as long as you haven't gone past the life of the coolant it can be converted. The test strip you are using (CC2602A) is different than the one I mentioned. They both measure 3 items which makes the name 3 way a little confusing but the one I named actually checks the quality of the coolant not its SCA status. It measures ph/sulfate and chloride.

[tom wilson]

yes, turn the heater reostat to full hot and drive the motorhome until the heater air blows hot, then drain the clear flush water. that will remove all the old antifreeze from the heater. i went one step further by adding cascade dishwasher soap to the flush water so that the dca chemicals will be cleaned out. the dca is not needed with the OAT, finalcharge in my case, so you will have all the coolant in your system protected my OAT. test strips are no longer needed nor accurate.

[Ecker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tommywilson:
yes, turn the heater reostat to full hot and drive the motorhome until the heater air blows hot, then drain the clear flush water. that will remove all the old antifreeze from the heater. i went one step further by adding cascade dishwasher soap to the flush water so that the dca chemicals will be cleaned out. the dca is not needed with the OAT, finalcharge in my case, so you will have all the coolant in your system protected my OAT. test strips are no longer needed nor accurate. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Cummins specifically warns against using liquid dish soap.

"Do Not use liquid dish soap. Foam and air locks in the cylinder heads can occur and cause severe engine damage."

[tom wilson]

cascade dishwasher soap is not liquid. it is what cummins uses to clean dca from their engines.

[Ecker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tommywilson:
cascade dishwasher soap is not liquid. it is what cummins uses to clean dca from their engines. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes I know. I was simply trying to make sure no one drew the wrong conclusion from your comment. I don't know who the Cummins you refer to is but the corporation does not recommend that one use anyhting other than Cummins Fleetguard Restore or Restore Plus. See Section 11 of this document

Cummins Coolant