Coolant filter: does it dispense SCAs ??

[Robi.1014]

This Fall, I hope to flush and fill my coolant system with the new OAT "technology" rather than stay with SCA "technology". I've done extensive reading on the topic, but it's not clear what model/brand of filter is appropriate when move to OAT. The Fleetguard DCA4 has a SCA- dispensing feature, I believe, so I need to stay away from that. What say ye?

Cummins ISC-315/330

[Rex]

Robi, Monaco stopped adding coolant filters sometime in 2004, the year of your coach. If you do have one, then there are three filters for it, standard, extended and blank.

The standard and extended both dispense DCA. the standard dumps it all at once and Cummins recommends changing it twice a year.

The extended had a slow release and should be changed once a year.

If you use a type antifreeze that does not require DCA then the blank filter is what you would use. Blank is a misnomer in that it IS a filter, just does not have any DCA.

Before you ask, no you cannot eliminate the blank filter as it is my understanding Cummins requires it if you have a coolant filter equipped engine.

[lonestarace]

We run coolant that has the DCA pre-mixed so we use FG #WF2077 that doesn't have any DCA in it.

We hope this helps

[rebelone]

Any one know? If I put on new filter with the DCA in it, with out changing anti-freeze will it cause problems with to much of the DCA in the system? I bought this 2004 Monaco with the ISC Cummins in it,used. Not sure if filter was ever changed? Filter on it now is a WF2074
Thanks
Rebel

[Rex]

Reblone, yes it could. You can get filters with different amounts of DCA. Always check your antifreeze with the correct test strip making sure the test strip is not out of date. Then install the filter with the DCA needed to balance the system.

[rebelone]

Will find the test strips Thanks
Rebel

[RinkersRanch]

You could replace your current coolant filter (Fleetguard WF2074) with a with a Fleeguard WF2077 non chemical filter. I have attached a link to a Fleetguard coolant brochure that is a good source for coolant product part #'s.

Fleetguard Coolant

Here is a link to the Fleetguard home page.

[Robi.1014]

Much thanks to you all. You've set me on a good course. Goodbye SCAs and hello OTA.

[Mr_D]

DCA is not needed with the new coolants. Just get a filter with no DCA in it. That's what I did with ours, but I mistakenly used the wrong coolant so I need to change it again as what I got has an acid in it that destroys silicone gaskets and hoses.
Be sure and follow Brett's write up on changing the coolant:

Quote:

I just changed out my coolant to Caterpillar ELC and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience. To my knowledge no chassis/coach maker is using ELC—so all are “low silicate coolant for diesels” with included or added SCA. Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer’s instructions (usually every 3 years). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use (we check the SCA concentration in all coaches at Cat RV Club Rallies). When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to Caterpillar ELC and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech. Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain cock. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. I catch it in 2 Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so I do not even get them dirty. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free. Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes at regular temp. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the color is clear. At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to “Last rinse”. For older systems or for switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner such as Cat Fast Acting Cooling System Cleaner 4C4611. Follow directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8 to ¾” lines going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until what comes out is clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water. If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s). Last Rinse is with distilled water. At $.62/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water. Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. My cooling system is 18 gallons, so I added 9 gallons of Caterpillar ELC CONCENTRATE (119-5150) (plus one for overflow container). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture. This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter. Check belts while you are in there.