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Old 03-13-2017, 10:32 PM   #1
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Dark fuel with black specs

I drained some fuel from my water seperatir and found darkish fuel with small black flakes. I was going to put some biobor jf in it but thought I better wait until I get closer to home in case I go through multiple filter changes.

Ideas or comments?

On a related note Arnold (Cummins Ocala) who is one of their best mechanics told me to plug the center hole on the primary and prefill it with clean fuel. He told me to put the secondary on dry and use the lift pump (3-5 30 second cycles to fill the secondary. Seems most people fill the secondary too??
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Old 03-13-2017, 10:48 PM   #2
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I do!

Read too many stories of no- starts using the lift pump method !
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Old 03-13-2017, 11:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff753 View Post
I drained some fuel from my water seperatir and found darkish fuel with small black flakes. I was going to put some biobor jf in it but thought I better wait until I get closer to home in case I go through multiple filter changes.
With the age of your coach, be aware that the insides of the fuel lines may not be "up to snuff" for the "new" bio-fuel.
The black flakes may be pieces of the fuel line flaking off.
Our coach is a '02 and will be changing out the fuel lines soon.
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Old 03-13-2017, 11:22 PM   #4
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I drained some fuel from my water separator and found darkish fuel with small black flakes. I was going to put some biobor jf in it but thought I better wait until I get closer to home in case I go through multiple filter changes.

Ideas or comments?

On a related note Arnold (Cummins Ocala) who is one of their best mechanics told me to plug the center hole on the primary and prefill it with clean fuel. He told me to put the secondary on dry and use the lift pump (3-5 30 second cycles to fill the secondary. Seems most people fill the secondary too??
Yup.. Water.... and old fuel.
Diesel fuel starts to break down within 60-90 days of refining. That is the darkish color. It actually coats the inside of your tank with tar.

The black flakes are likely microbes growing in the fuel at the water/ diesel fuel interface.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel..._contamination

There has been much discussion and misunderstanding of algae in diesel fuel. Algae need light to live and grow. As there is no sunlight in a closed fuel tank, no algae can survive, but some microbes can survive and feed on the diesel fuel.[61]
These microbes form a colony that lives at the interface of fuel and water. They grow quite fast in warmer temperatures. They can even grow in cold weather when fuel tank heaters are installed. Parts of the colony can break off and clog the fuel lines and fuel filters.[62]

Water is heavier than diesel fuel so the fuel rides on top. Stuff lives where the water meets the fuel. No water no microbes.... The microbes can actually get quite thick. In a boat in rough water the fuel can get stirred up and the microbes distributed in the fuel and end up in the filter. Unlikely in a MH.

I could be wrong but it might be an indication that if it is indeed water in your tank, that it is getting a bit deep and close to the fuel pickup and the microbes are getting pickedup. ( not good ) I base this on the assumption that you are not off roading at 50 miles per hour in your RV so the fuel is not going to get shaken up much.

Water usually enters the tank via bad diesel fuel or via condensation through the fuel vent. Not much you can do about that one. Always get your fuel at a place that goes through a lot of fuel. Like truck stop. Some local garage that goes through a tank every 2 months is a poor choice.

My advice is to dump the fuel, and send it through a water filter like this link.

Home

This actually works. All the fuel that goes in to my boat goes through Mr Funnel. Filters out the water. Cheaper and faster than using up fuel filters.

Then mix it with some fresh fuel and use it quickly. You should always add a biocide to your fuel and if the MH was built prior to the low sulfur fuel coming in around 2003 you should also be using some additives for lubricity. The sulfur in diesel fuel was used to lubricate the hi pressure pump and the injectors, much the way lead lubricated the valves in gas engines. No sulfur now so you need to add lubrication.

Manufactures even recommend the additives for new engines because its simply too dry and the pumps don't like it.

My blue water sail boat has a 75 hp diesel that cost me 20k to replace a few years ago. I always add biocide and lubricity additives.

I also have 2 -30 micron filters that the fuel goes through and then 2 10-micron filters. They are actually set up so that it goes through one 30m filter and then through a 10m. Any problems and I immediately flip a couple of valves and we go to the second 30m filter and the second 10m filter.

There is nothing like going in through a narrow cut in 6 or 8 foot waves and a 25 or 30knot breeze and loosing your engine. The natives will heartily disapprove.



Cheers,

Colin
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Old 03-13-2017, 11:26 PM   #5
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I do!

Read too many stories of no- starts using the lift pump method !
Get an electric fuel pump that will push the fuel through the system but that will allow the fuel to simply flow if it is not working. I hate those lift pumps. Any leak in the system ( like your filter is passing air) and you will never get the fuel there. NEVER.

I will try to get the name of the pump I use on my boat when I get down there later this week.
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Old 03-13-2017, 11:29 PM   #6
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With the age of your coach, be aware that the insides of the fuel lines may not be "up to snuff" for the "new" bio-fuel.
The black flakes may be pieces of the fuel line flaking off.
Our coach is a '02 and will be changing out the fuel lines soon.
Never heard of this. Fuel hose will rot due to age but its pretty tough stuff chemical wise. My boat had the same fuel lines for 30 years before I bought it. I replaced them because it was time, they were not falling apart.
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:03 AM   #7
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That's probably microbe growth. Shock it with Biobor JF or something similar to kill and change your filter frequently for a year or so.
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Old 03-14-2017, 10:56 AM   #8
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I do!

Read too many stories of no- starts using the lift pump method !
here is a link to an electric fuel pump I use on my boat for priming the fuel system

Onan 0149-1828 Electric Fuel Pump - Electric Fuel Pumps - Fuel Pumps - Fuel

If it is not turned on the lift pump on the motor can draw fuel through it with no issues.

If you need to prime after a fuel filter change it will do it. If there is a leak at the fuel filter after reassembly this will also show it to you.


Cheers,
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Old 03-14-2017, 11:21 AM   #9
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Very cool info. I will filter my tank when I get home. I bought this 01 Dynasty from my wife's cousin. It sat a good bit. I read where you can possible stick a hose down to the bottom of the tank, put your finger in it, and take a rough core sample. I've just put about 3000 miles on it so I am cycling some fuel. Almost always buy it at flying j

I've read mixed opinions if additives. I started using optilube after replacing my caps pump and it seems like that's when this started but I can't be sure. Maybe it broke some stuff loose?

I've heard where you can send some fuel to a lab for testing? Don't know if it's micros or asphaultines?
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Old 03-14-2017, 11:29 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Traveler2162 View Post
here is a link to an electric fuel pump I use on my boat for priming the fuel system

Onan 0149-1828 Electric Fuel Pump - Electric Fuel Pumps - Fuel Pumps - Fuel

If it is not turned on the lift pump on the motor can draw fuel through it with no issues.

If you need to prime after a fuel filter change it will do it. If there is a leak at the fuel filter after reassembly this will also show it to you.


Cheers,
Colin


Would this be good to rig up for a racor on a board to filter my fuel tank? Maybe run it down to 1/3 then filter what's in there then add new with biobor jf and repeat??
I ran my tank the lowest it's been (since I've owned it 4 years) last year. Turned right (away from pickups) and it died. Lost my caps pump st that time. Maybe hit the water/fuel layer in the tank? Never had water show up in the separator (fleetguard). I want to change it to a racor (manual calls for s 3201t I think...or comparable 10 micron racor) with a restriction gauge but I need to figure out how to do that.
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Old 03-14-2017, 03:01 PM   #11
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I also just read Mike Cantor's post about not using additives but is that true when asphaultine symptoms present themselves too.
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:20 PM   #12
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Never heard of this. Fuel hose will rot due to age but its pretty tough stuff chemical wise. My boat had the same fuel lines for 30 years before I bought it. I replaced them because it was time, they were not falling apart.
The key word is Biofuel usage.
Doubt that you ran much if any in the boats... Bio scrubs the lines and tank, causing a bunch of fuel filter change outs and issues that the "Powers that be" never thought of... let alone experience when they started demanding that everyone use the stuff.
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:32 PM   #13
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Jeff,
Google "fuel polishing" and read some of the marine forums reply. Not sure how good the process is but around your home, there are plenty of companies doing it. Never have had to do it myself but do know some diesel boat guys who have had decent results.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:35 PM   #14
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I think I'm going to make a fuel filter system using a pump and a Racor mounted on a 2x12 with a 12v battery. Just need to figure out which fuel pump and which Racor to use. I also need to figure out how to get my brass wand down in the tank. Don't know is I can access it from the filler neck, fuel pick up line or removing the sender to access the tank. What does a tank look like inside? I think it has baffles???
Any ideas on which fuel pump and which filter set up to use would be appreciated. I'd rather cycle the furl front the tank then have to run all that crud through the lift pump and into the filters.


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