Dash AC condenser fan schematic

[YC1]

2008 HR Endeavor 40 SKQ 400 ISL rear radiator.

Three times my AC has blown a 20 amp fuse in the front run bay in the small fuse panel below the large one. Usually it is a simple swap and things work. I replaced the fuse again today and it popped. My schematics have some incomplete information or inaccurate.

With a new fuse in place the compressor kicks in again. The condenser fan on the side of the MH is not getting any voltage. The schematic shows this line is connected directly to the compressor power. If that is the case I have a bad connection. However there may be another relay or fuse I have not sorted out.

That said the fan motor itself measures .5 ohms. That calculates to a lot of current by itself. It is possible if the fan motor is shorted that it burned a wire open.

So I really need two things. A schematic from someone with a 2009 or newer because mine is right at the crossover period of building.
The second would be input from someone that may have measured the dc resistance of their fan in the past.

I may just remove the fan and breadboard it at our next stop if necessary.

If the fan is bad does anyone have a replacement suggestion. Internet here is terrible and slow.

The system is built by Specific Climate Systems. Complete part number for condenser and fan is 084-00218

Thanks for reading the long thread.

[Dutch Star Don]

YC1......I read your post and looked for a fan under the part number. I found this on line RV Chassis Parts USED RV/MOTORHOME AC AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER P/N: 084-00218 Radiator - Cooling Parts | RV SALVAGE PARTS AND ACCESSORIES AND SERVICE. EAST BERNSTADT, KY. LONDON AND SURROUNDING AREAS. TN. OH. WV. SHIPPING AVAILABLE. ORDER ONLINE. K?.

Then I re-read your post and saw that the part was for the whole assembly, not just the fan. I looked for just fans and found that JEGS actually had quite a selection.

If it's still popping fuses, can you disconnect the fan and see if that stops the fuse from blowing. I know that sometimes cars will do what yours is doing when the Freon is low.

I went outside and opened up my condenser bay to look for a part number on the fan. All I found was "Made in USA". I'm glad I looked, I checked my small slide motor while in there and saw that one of the odd nuts that Monaco used to lock the shaft was coming off and the bracket that holds the motor was loose and the motor shifter.

[Homey55]

Not sure of the specifics on your condenser fan but mine seized. After searching and calling around I found the exact replacement I needed at wawaparts dot com. It is a universal 16" condenser fan. Prices as high as 180.00 for the same one elsewhere; here for less than 45.00 shipped.

http://wawaparts.com/Condenser_Fans_Universal.aspx

Hope this helps,
Brian

[YC1]

Thanks for the suggestions. Any chance of you guys having a schemati. I want to be sure the voltage for the fan comes along the same line as the compressor itself. According to my schematic they are parallel. Knowing how they threw these together in 2008 it could be a bad butt splice anywhere.

Don, as for the low freon I kept that tidbit out of the conversaton at this point. I unplugged the fan, put a new fuse in, and charged the system with almost one full large can. Plugging the fan back in did not blow the fuse but it was not running either. So there is currently no voltage to the fan.

In any case, this evening when it cools down and we get setteled in our new RV spot in Oregon I will check it out.

Keep the ideas coming

[BFlinn181]

I think your fan is bad. You might testing the fan motor by using jumpers from the battery. According to Ohm's Law, Current = V/R, Your .5 ohm at 12 volts is 12/.5= 24 amps, well over the 15 amp fuse.

[YC1]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

I think your fan is bad. You might testing the fan motor by using jumpers from the battery. According to Ohm's Law, Current = V/R, Your .5 ohm at 12 volts is 12/.5= 24 amps, well over the 15 amp fuse.

Yep. I did the math. However at this time there is no voltage getting to the fan so a wire may have become a carbon trace.

If I said 15 amp fuse I was brain dead. It had a 20. Giving some tolerances with the ohmeter it could still be ok.

Sure wish the documentation was better. I bought the factory CD years ago and downloaded a bunch of stuff but I suspect they did not release everything.

[YC1]

Thanks for the schematic Don. It compares to mine. After 40 yrs as a technician I always advise fixing the obvious first and other symptoms often clear. After removing the fan and checking my ohmeter I found it needed to be calibrated. It was telling me I had a dead short and not 7 ohms or so. Guess the 100 degree temps was hurting my bain. Or lack of beer.

Took the motor apart and found the short. I can see why it could have been intermittent. It should work fine now with some insulation I added. Still don't know why I didn't measure voltage on the wire. I was able to see the ground side. Oh well, that is not unusual.

Put the motor back on and it fired right up.

Oh, and the new hard drive for the Direct TV box fixed it right up.

What am I going to do the rest of the evening?

Thanks everyone for the tips. I think I need a beer now.

[Dutch Star Don]

You're a better man than me.....I would have looked at the meter, looked at the fan and said....crap, I haven't a clue and ordered a new fan!