Dash blower motor resistor-location-

[jpl]

2004 signatureHaving a off and on problem with my dash blower motor-(runs for a couple of hours than slows and stops.Will start again on its on, after the resistor cools down.PS--Not a good thing in the middle of a snow storm coming through Pittsburgh at 7:00 am. Talked to Monaco Techs and feel good the problem is the resistor--Here is the problem,they keep telling me it is located and can get to it from behind the side out genertaor below the windshield. NOT! Yes the housing is their but the resistor must be above the dash base?. In the SIGNATURE they use the SCS system,I looked up the unit on the web and located the resistor on their picture,which at the very top of the unit,Now heres my problem I can,t see the top of the SCS unit because the dash covers it. Has anyone come across this, and if so how did you resolve it.( I,m thinking about cuting into the plywood that i can see from from below the dash at the heater box location. jpl

[FLYING BUTCH]

Don't know if this will help but did you dry standing up inside behind the generator? It is tight but there is room to stand in there from underneath the coach-of course with the generator out. My blower motor squeaks and sometime I am going to have go look at it, When air conditioner fluid is added to the dash air you have to stand in there to do it. Again don't know if this will help. good luck

[jpl]

Thanks Flying Dutch. No problem getting in their,but what i,m looking for isn,t their. But thanks jpl

[CoCoDave]

jpl,

I can't see mine either. But if I slide my hands up into the area pointed to by the arrow in the link below, I can find it by touch and remove/replace.

FWIW


http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dash...air-54770.html

[jpl]

Thanks for that imput,just viewed it and my setup is totaly different on the Sig. My unit is mounted dead center and has the stamping of SCS in bold letters on the outer case. The casing going up into the dash ,can,t see the top bacause of the fiberglass mouled dash and front cap support. But thanks again,I will solve it just not sure how yet.John

[rex]

Jpl try this. This pdf has several SCS systems. If you find yours it may help identify where the resister pack is located.

http://scsfrigette.com/pdfs/rv/Motor...AC%20Units.pdf

and here is the parts catalog that may also help.

SCS / Frigette - Climate Control Products for a World in Motion

They are out of business but some parts are available from:

Ross Equipment
ask for Mike Leone
P. O. Box 810833
Bayway Avenue
Elizabeth, NJ 07202
800-290-9798


Parts also available from:


Victory Climate Systems
8912 South Fwy
Fort Worth, Texas
817-293-3331
Victory Climate Systems

[jpl]

Thanks REX I have done that it is the HC206A. As you can see the resistor is at the very top. I can,t see my top ( fiberglass flat panel--part of monaco body construction in the way) I have another call in to a dealer in the area, to see if any of his mechanics have ever replaced a resistor on a 04 SIg. But really do thank you for trying. John

[jpl]

2004 SIG. Thanks for everyones help with where the resistor may of been. For the thrid time talked to Monaco Tech line,This time I got someone who when above and beyond the job. He when a looking and found what others said was not correct. Resistor is located under the dash right side of heater housing. On the 04 sig. their is a cold air return vent center of the dash at the floor. Remove vent,reach in as far as you can to the right of the housing,feel around and BINGO 4 wire plug attached to the resistor.You are working blind,but what the heck,someone gave you a place to look. John

[rex]

jpl, thanks for the update. I am sure many others will appreciate having this information. Glad you found it.

[86 Cavalcade]

I have a 2001 Monaco Diplomat and from the day I bought it the in dash heater and AC worked very poorly. My wife had always complained about the cold draft coming from the front of the coach on her side. I checked all of the things I could. I put a new thermostat in the engine and looked for any type of added on shut off valves in the heater hoses going to the front heater core. I also installed a new heater control valve, this did not help at all. I thought the heater core could be plugged up so I flushed it both ways with a garden hose and the water flow was good in both directions. On Tuesday I was looking at it again from the outside of the coach and saw that I had about a 1" gap at the top of the heater core/evaporator assembly box. Who ever installed this assembly used #14 self tapping screws and the heads on the bolts were wider than the re-inforcement tabs on the ABS plastic box. It broke the the plastic away when they tightened the bolts down. This allowed the box to fall away from the firewall at the top. Since the heater fan pulls thru the heater core and the evaporator it was by-passing all of this and pulling outside air straight into the coach. I pop riveted a piece of 1/2" X 1/8" aluminum flat stock on the top flange of the box to be able to bolt this back to the firewall.

I also installed a heater booster pump from a Mercedes while I was doing these repairs and this heater and AC work great now. It is hard to believe what a difference this has made. I am attaching a couple of pictures to show what this looked like right after I took it out. George

[CoCoDave]

Good job, George! Assuming it is installed correctly, is it only the four screws holding it in? Two on top and two on the bottom?

Where does the booster pump go?

Thanks,

Dave

[86 Cavalcade]

Dave, About 2 inches from the the top on both sides there are places to put one additional metal screw. I used #12 X 1" self tapping 5/16" drive screws so I have a total of 6 screws now instead of only the 4 that were used. I bought new foam tape from AutoZone. It was too wide so I cut in in half to replace the foam tape that is used to seal the assembly to the firewall.

I put the circulating booster pump suction side in the supply line going to the temp control valve. I then ran a hose from the pump outlet to the inlet side of the temperature control valve. You need to find out which hose is the supply and which is the return. The only thing about this pump is the one I got the inlet side is 3/4" instead of being 5/8" on both the inlet and outlet. You can buy these pumps new starting at about $60.00. I bought one from a junk yard because I wanted the mounting bracket which I could not get because it was welded to the cars body work. I did get the rubber donut that holds the pump. I made a mounting bracket from sheet metal. I let the engine warm up before I turned the pump on and the heater was putting out pretty warm air but as soon as I turned the pump on the heater started putting out hot air. I am pleased with getting this issue settled. Rex had given me some advice on this heater/AC problem. I never dreamed it would be what I found though. I had looked at this heater box dozens of times and never saw it was pulled away from the firewall the way it was. I probably would not have seen it at all if I had not removed the tilt down door on the front which made it so much easier to work on. At times the most difficult things to see are those that are in plain view. George

[CoCoDave]

Thanks, George. I may look into that booster pump.