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Old 10-21-2017, 10:56 AM   #1
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Unhappy Dead Chassis Batteries

I have been parked and plugged in to 50 amp shore power for three weeks. In preparing to depart on Monday I was performing checks and find my chassis batteries are dead (12.3v). The batteries are new AGM 4/2017. When I attempt to bridge the coach batteries I have no response. When pressing the Battery Boost toggle it does not light up. This started happening on my trip to Albuquerque after traveling a very rough highway through Arizona. In fact several items have shaken free but can be handled at a later date. When checking the battery compartment I found a loose wire that I do not know what the function is and have attached a photo. When checking the Elec Status (photo attached) on Alladin before opening the battery compartment I had NO solar charging now it appears I have some. I do not understand what the Aladdin display is telling me so any explanation of the readings is much appreciated. Questions include (1.) Is there a fuse or Big Boy that controls the Battery Boost and if so where would it be located? (2) Why would the chassis batteries not be charging or maintained by the charger/inverter and/or the solar? (3) What is the loose wire I found in the battery compartment and should it be connected, if so, where?

My rig is a 2007 Monaco Executive Sandia 44' with Cummins 525hp ISX.

Thanks in advance for your answers and assistance.
Patrick
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Old 10-21-2017, 11:30 AM   #2
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Hi
We had an 05 Navigator for years so I haunted the Aladdin . That page for sure. It is showing your coach is hooked up to 50 amps with great voltage but inverter is not charging. Try going out to inverter and see if circuit breaker is on. Battery charger portion of inverter is not working. Try that and let me know.
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Old 10-21-2017, 11:42 AM   #3
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Sorry I can't offer suggestions on that problem. Keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 10-21-2017, 11:50 AM   #4
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First, I was intrigued by your description of using AGM batteries for chassis starting use. I looked up Trojan Battery suggestions and found:

"What are the advantages and disadvantages of gel, AGM, and flooded lead acid deep cycle?
Generally, gel and AGM batteries have about 20% less capacity, cost about two times more, and have a shorter cycle life than comparable flooded lead acid batteries. However, Gel and AGM batteries do not need watering, are safer (no acid spilling out), can be placed in a variety of positions, have a slower self-discharge characteristic, and are more efficient in charging and discharging than flooded batteries (see table below). Gel batteries are more suitable for deep cycling applications whereas AGM batteries are more for light cycling and engine-starting applications."


So I guess if you don't mind the cost and have enough CCA, they do save having to add water. If you installed them, I would hope you checked that you have a proper charging system for AGM batteries.

If you have a 12.3v reading on your chassis batteries, measured at their terminals, they aren't dead. 12.3v is a state of charge of more than 70% . If you're not getting any reaction in the chassis circuits, it could be connection problem or blown fuse.

It's beyond my ability to tell from a couple of inches of a large gauge wire end to tell what its function and connection point should be. Where does it come from? Any voltage present? Is it a ground? Does it become 'hot' when the dash boost switch is held down?

You'll need to do a step-by-step check of your electrical system, checking for 12v with a meter at each point of the system, from batteries to fuse panel. Just reading off the screen of the Aladdin system isn't telling you much. You didn't mention which Aladdin model you have, but manuals are available online. Here's one.
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Old 10-21-2017, 12:12 PM   #5
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I agree with bflinn. However I had AGMs in our coach and found that the chassis batteries held lots of storage. With the engine battery the motor always spun fast and started right up (Detroit diesel 60 series ). Check the inverter.........
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Old 10-21-2017, 12:20 PM   #6
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That "loose wire" appears terminated with insulation and isn't supposed to go anywhere.
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Old 10-21-2017, 01:07 PM   #7
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Those are my fingers holding the wire so it is not large gauge. I am guessing that it is for battery temp but not certain. I was asking for the location of the fuses for chassis and inverter in my questions. I appreciate the link to Aladdin.

Thanks


First, I was intrigued by your description of using AGM batteries for chassis starting use. I looked up Trojan Battery suggestions and found:

"What are the advantages and disadvantages of gel, AGM, and flooded lead acid deep cycle?
Generally, gel and AGM batteries have about 20% less capacity, cost about two times more, and have a shorter cycle life than comparable flooded lead acid batteries. However, Gel and AGM batteries do not need watering, are safer (no acid spilling out), can be placed in a variety of positions, have a slower self-discharge characteristic, and are more efficient in charging and discharging than flooded batteries (see table below). Gel batteries are more suitable for deep cycling applications whereas AGM batteries are more for light cycling and engine-starting applications."


So I guess if you don't mind the cost and have enough CCA, they do save having to add water. If you installed them, I would hope you checked that you have a proper charging system for AGM batteries.

If you have a 12.3v reading on your chassis batteries, measured at their terminals, they aren't dead. 12.3v is a state of charge of more than 70% . If you're not getting any reaction in the chassis circuits, it could be connection problem or blown fuse.

It's beyond my ability to tell from a couple of inches of a large gauge wire end to tell what its function and connection point should be. Where does it come from? Any voltage present? Is it a ground? Does it become 'hot' when the dash boost switch is held down?

You'll need to do a step-by-step check of your electrical system, checking for 12v with a meter at each point of the system, from batteries to fuse panel. Just reading off the screen of the Aladdin system isn't telling you much. You didn't mention which Aladdin model you have, but manuals are available online. Here's one.[/QUOTE]
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Old 10-21-2017, 01:09 PM   #8
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It is actually bare metal on the end
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Old 10-21-2017, 01:21 PM   #9
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That 'wire' is a temperature sensor that runs to the charger. Tuck it somewhere between the batteries. Aladdin looks normal for being plugged into 50a. Solar is charging at 3.6a. House batts are at 12.7v discharging at 7a. Which tells me they were not being charged at the time of this photo.

Your problem appears to be the chassis batts are not being charged on shore power. This points to the Big Boy or the intelletec BIRD. The BB is located on the right side of the engine compartment.
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Old 10-21-2017, 01:21 PM   #10
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Check in a manual for your inverter(converter)/charger and see if it is a temperature sensor for the charger. If so, it is usually tucked in to have contact with the battery terminal or case. A temperature probe usually is more than one conductor, before touching the end to anything, I'd make sure it's not a 12v (+) lead.
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Old 10-21-2017, 01:48 PM   #11
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I agree. That's probably the Inverter temp sensor. Just tuck it in between batteries.
Make sure your inverter is running first.
If it's working, then clean/rebuild the Intelletec Big Boy relay. It's located in the rear run compartment on the passenger side.
Mike Canter posted some very nice instructions on how to take it apart and clean it. Basically there are 2 copper contacts that corrode. You can also just purchase a new Big Boy, but keep the old one as a spare.
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Old 10-21-2017, 02:08 PM   #12
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I located the BB a little while ago but still searching for my main chassis fuse. Also any idea on why the Battery Boost does not appear to work? Is this a function of the BB? It was in my previous coach.


Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a View Post
I agree. That's probably the Inverter temp sensor. Just tuck it in between batteries.
Make sure your inverter is running first.
If it's working, then clean/rebuild the Intelletec Big Boy relay. It's located in the rear run compartment on the passenger side.
Mike Canter posted some very nice instructions on how to take it apart and clean it. Basically there are 2 copper contacts that corrode. You can also just purchase a new Big Boy, but keep the old one as a spare.
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Old 10-21-2017, 02:08 PM   #13
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Like others have said, it is your BigBoy solenoid in the rear run box. It allows for the jump start as well as getting all your batteries connected for charging. Had same problem on mine when i got it. I also switched to AGM batteries for starting because they offered higher voltage when first demand drawn by the starter. I was having slow cranking and needed more battery. They will work fine with your alternator. I ended up learning on this forum about the Denso gear reduction starter and that solved my cranking issues. These were known to have weak starters.
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Old 10-21-2017, 02:34 PM   #14
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Did you replace your BB or just clean the contacts. Also are there any precautions, disconnects required or inverter turned off, shore power disco'd etc I need to follow so I don't fry anything or get hurt?
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