Disappointed after changing shocks

[MSHappyCampers]

My MH was very rough-riding on bad roads so I replaced the original shocks with the recommended Bilsteins. There has been a noticable improvement but not the huge change I was hoping for. It did make a big difference in stopping the "porpoiseing" after going over a dip in the road but it is still rougher that I think it should be on bad roads. What has been your experience with this?

[SVTotem]

We have a similar sized coach and found the Bilstien shocks improved handling and ride, but for bad roads and sharp bridge expansion strips adjusting tire pressure was more effective. We had been a bit higher than the manufacturer chart for our weight.

[onechaddude]

Have you tried adjusting ride heights? I had same deal with shock change and set ride height to factory spec and much better ride.

[Dutch Star Don]

Joe.....I agree with checking your ride height to make sure that it's not part of your issue. You can see huge handling changes if your ride height is an inch or so off.

I haven't been in a coach with the Bilsteins, but I got a dramatically improved ride with the Koni's. My biggest gripe was also the expansion joints and sharp jolts from bridges and other road irregularities. The Koni's eliminated about 90% of the jarring. Before the shocks, I thought some of the roads were going to shake my overhead TV and framework right out of the coach.

I later added the sway bars to my coach and got an unexpected improvement. I noticed that they softened my front end even more. Some say they can't, but I disagree. I think the sway bars tie both sides of the front end together and when one side hits a pot hole or bump, it shares it with the other side, softening the blow.

Lastly, I changed out my front tires from the GoodYears to Hankooks. Both tires ride the same when at the same pressure, but I had to bump the GoodYears almost ten pounds to make them wear properly. I can now run the Hankooks at a pressure which is appropriate for my front end weight and get a better ride.

The Roadmaster chassis is probably the best handling, but also the roughest riding. The eight air bags are transmitting more road shock to the coach. It will never ride like some other high end coaches, but I think you can make it ride well if you get everything just right. Unfortunately, it's expensive to get everything just right. Coach length also plays a large role in ride quality, just like a limousine.

[JaM Boyer]

Joe, I have just replaced the front shocks on my 2002 Diplomat 38PST with Bilstein BE5 F628's based on the recommendation of a Bilstein technical rep. These are softer than the original BE5 F627's and give a much nicer ride, even on our terrible CA freeways!
With new front tires (Hankook AH 12's, 275/70 R22.5) and an alignment it is like a different coach to drive.

Now I need to deal with the rear axle shocks/tires etc. - I am a little hesitant to go with the same shocks for the rear as there is such an increase in un-sprung weight over the front, yet Monaco always specifies the same shocks front and rear. Does anyone have any experience using different shocks front and back?

[JimM68]

For bad roads, sharp transitions, things like that, the tires and tire pressure have much more affect than shocks would.

[YC1]

Ditto Don's comments. My ride height was an inch off. What a difference that made. I have factory shocks still. I did add the sway bars and that made a tremendous difference. As Don said it takes the bumps much better now. I have a good "test track" nearby and the before and after drives were astonishing. My rv handles fantastic now and the ride is much smoother. Source Engineering has some great stuff.

One more add for Source. I have a rear radiator and changed out my fan to the higher performance one from Source. Cheapest power upgrade to be had. Picked up mileage as well,.

[mickey53]

I put Bilstein's on my 03 Windsor, then checked the ride height. It was off by almost 2 inches(low) after having it checked at Monaco in Elkhart a few years ago, they said it was good, but I still was not happy with the ride. Some say to check it at the air bags, others say check it from between the H frame & main frame. When I measured the air bags (top of bottom plate to bottom of top plate) there was not enough adjustment to get 9 1/2 inches in the front & 11 inches in the rear. When checked at the H frame to the main frame it was good. On the rear on my Windsor there are five settings on the rear axle, so I moved it up one hole which was one inch. For the front, the 1/4 inch rod was not long enough and no more adjustment left, so I cut a new 1/4 inch rod to the length I needed so the coach would travel level. I ended up at 9 inches at the front air bags(top of bottom plate to bottom of top plate) and 10 1/2 inches at the rear. The ride is so much better now, bottom line ride height is very important. Good luck. Mick

[DtBt]

Some of the published ride height specs for Monaco are wrong or else the wrong method of measuring. My Windsor specs were 9.5 front and 10.5 rear according to phone call to Monaco Tech. The back always looked low. When I finally checked the floor level and changed to 9.5 front and 11.5 rear did the ride improve immensely and the drive shaft roar disappear.

[deSanford]

Koni's, sway bars, Safe T Plus with Henderson's adjustment and nitrogen in the tires. deSanford PS will have a Source Fan for sale soon.

[walt2137]

Originally Posted by mickey53

I put Bilstein's on my 03 Windsor, then checked the ride height. It was off by almost 2 inches(low) after having it checked at Monaco in Elkhart a few years ago, they said it was good, but I still was not happy with the ride. Some say to check it at the air bags, others say check it from between the H frame & main frame. When I measured the air bags (top of bottom plate to bottom of top plate) there was not enough adjustment to get 9 1/2 inches in the front & 11 inches in the rear. When checked at the H frame to the main frame it was good. On the rear on my Windsor there are five settings on the rear axle, so I moved it up one hole which was one inch. For the front, the 1/4 inch rod was not long enough and no more adjustment left, so I cut a new 1/4 inch rod to the length I needed so the coach would travel level. I ended up at 9 inches at the front air bags(top of bottom plate to bottom of top plate) and 10 1/2 inches at the rear. The ride is so much better now, bottom line ride height is very important. Good luck. Mick

Mickey not trying to be a smart A but you dont have to change the rod to achieve the proper ride height, I will past the procedure I used on our old Dip and also on the Dynasty.

Note in 2006 Monaco changed to measuring the distance from the bottom of the top plate of the air bags to the top of the bottom plate.
The old procedure is easier for me because of the double donut type air bags.
Using 1/2" wood dial cut at 8" and 10" and coach level with safety stands and chaise aired up. adjust front with the 8" wood dial from top of H frame (this measurement is to be taken at the back of the H frame that goes from one side to the other) to bottom of the frame of the coach by adjusting the ride height valve in the middle and over the front axle with a long rod attached to front axle.
On the back use the 10" rods to adj the two ride height valves as with the front.
If the measurement is off, loosen the adjusting lock nut at the eccentric slot on the valve. Take a 7/16 wrench and 7/64 twist drill bit and crawl under the front of your coach. Locate the front jack. Just forward of the front jack, you should be able to sit up. You will see a narrow, vertical shaft. That shaft connects to a metal plate fastened to a short tubular piece of plastic. There is an elongated slot in the metal plate with a nut sticking out. Loosen the nut Move the plastic arm (tube) up to raise suspension height, this will inflate all the front air bags. Move the plastic arm (tube) down to lower suspension height, this will deflate the air bags. Make adjustments in small increments. When satisfied insert the drill bit in the plastic arm and valve body, the bit is there to hold the arm while tighten the 7/16 nut to 60 to 80 inch lb. After you finish blow down and start the engine and re air and check the height again adjust if necessary. Be sure to click on the attached file.

[Papa_Jim]

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

My MH was very rough-riding on bad roads so I replaced the original shocks with the recommended Bilsteins. There has been a noticable improvement but not the huge change I was hoping for. It did make a big difference in stopping the "porpoiseing" after going over a dip in the road but it is still rougher that I think it should be on bad roads. What has been your experience with this?

I think you did a good thing by installing the new shocks.

I think you should weigh your coach and then figure out what your tire pressure should be.

The ride of our coach is very much controlled by the air pressure in the tires. 5 lb. too much pressure in the front tires is VERY noticeable.

[frankdamp]

You're driving a TRUCK. Why do you expect it to ride like a Rolls-Royce? I have an F53, which is probably a lot worse than your rig, but I'd much rather spend my money on fuel and CG fees than chasing an unattainable goal.

Different strokes for different folks, I guess, but I'll live with my 11-ton box truck.

[DennisZ]

Sanford
Why you getting rid of the Source fan??

Dennis