Draining Air Tanks

[caymann]

I have been draining air tanks by getting under the coach and turning the drain valve.
I was reading that there maybe a easier way such as lanyard or something that i can pull from outside of the coach to drain air tanks. I have never found one.

Do Monaco coaches have lanyards or ropes or other outlets to drain air tanks.
If so, where are they located?

jim

[Gary - K7GLD]

In the past - depending on the type of drain valve - I simply "cracked" the valve enough to allow a slow drip of any accumulated water - but not enough to noticeably affect normal compressor operation. Just need to occasionally check to see there is still a small flow in effect...

[Diplomat Don]

Caymann...Monaco apparently moved the drains from your year model to ours. I have a valve on the firewall next to the generator and a valve on the hitch. No crawling under the coach.

I beleive Freightliner uses a lanyard that you can just pull, but is a different kind of valve/release. You could relocate yours by removing the valve, add a hose and relocate the valve in an area that is easier to access like they do on the newer models.

[Clonetrooper]

I have auto drains on the front set of tanks on my Discovery 38', Freightliner chassis. Not sure if they are original or add on. Elecric operated, dump when water in tank. Back set stays dry. You probably could run long wire from manual dump to side of coach maybe into basement bin, save a trip under coach. Post back if you want brand name of auto dump, will crawl under coach, here at house.

[caymann]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don You could relocate yours by removing the valve, add a hose and relocate the valve in an area that is easier to access like they do on the newer models.

Yes, that is what i would like to do
Can you post/email me a picture of what yours look like?

[walt2137]

In 10 yrs I have never got a drop out of my tanks but I change my disiccant and coalescing filters each 2 to 3 yrs , I did check this month while I was checking the ride height, nothing in the 3 bleeds.

[MACRacing]

I also have a air drain valve inside the generator compartment. I am not sure if this would get water out of the tank however. I still use the valve on the tank once a year to make sure there is no water build up. Maybe thats overkill but it isn't that difficult and I go under the motor home at the start of the season to lube and check things out.

Mat

[Gary - K7GLD]

WELL, in any event, do NOT underestimate the potential damage and/or injury that can be caused by an exploding compressor air tank! We had one, a common 5-gallon job on wheels, burst in the pressroom of the newspaper where I worked, and it literally was like an explosion - the tank was totally destroyed, and the motor/compressor heavily damaged from being projected against the frame of our press. Fortunately, the pressmen were far enough away at the end of the hose to not be injured - but their ears rang for a good while afterwards!

[Clonetrooper]

Yeah Gary, high press air, hyd oil, water etc are nothing to mess with. Easy to get killed or injured around these things. If I was draining my air tanks to install a pull drain valve I would be careful. Used high press 300+ and high volume (1000 gal tanks and more) air for diesel engine direct air start on many small ships I worked on. Air is directed into cylinders to turn engine over, no starter. Anyway when monthly air tank inspection came along and all air was drained from tanks, the moisture compressed in air would freeze in air tank drain pipe, stopping air from coming out. Heat goes to cold. Pipe would be freezing cold. Tank would still have over 100 psi in it.
Not gonna happen on a MH tank but I knew guys that had hp air, oil and steam injuries.
Mat, You have to drain water from tanks at the bottom of the tank or a point that is lower. If your not getting water you should be ok. Overkill is ok, was reading post by bigdog about friend that never drained tanks on school bus. Cost a lot of money to repair water damage to brakes etc.
KC

[Diplomat Don]

Jim.....Open this link IMG_1307_Large_ - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery and if you look a couple of inches above the "A" on the mudflap (one o'clock position) you'll see the bronze valve. It's a attached to a bracket. You can see the hose behind the valve that runs to the rear tank. The front is the same set up with the valve mounted next to the air connection of the passenger side of the generator.

It would probably be expensive, but you could probably order the hoses from Monaco and add your own brackets.

I think the easiest/cheapest and most sturdy way would be to remove the valve you have now and have a local hydaraulic hose shop fit a hose with a male and female end that matches your valve. Add a couple of brackets and you would be good.

[caymann]

I am looking at this kit
I am hoping this would do the trick.

[ShapeShifter]

Quote:

Originally Posted by caymann I am looking at this kit I am hoping this would do the trick.

That might be a bit of work to get hooked up properly. I looked at that kit a while ago for my portable compressor. The included black hose needs to splice into the line between the pressure control switch and the compressor head. When the pressure switch opens, it vents the air from the compressor head so that the compressor head has no pressure when it starts up next time. The control line to the valve is tapped into that line between the compressor head and pressure switch. When the compressor stops, the change in pressure in that line triggers this valve to open momentarily and dump moisture from the tank.

To get it to work on the MH, you will need to find some way to splice into the line between the compressor and regulator. You will need to find the line that triggers the desiccant filter to purge, and tap into that. You will need some custom fittings for it, as the T fitting supplied in the kit will be much too small.

You might be able to get it to work, but I personally would be hesitant to try to adapt it to a situation that is significantly different from its intended application, while trying to apply it to something that is a critical safety item like the air brake tanks. If this device malfunctions on a home compressor (its intended use) then it's an inconvenience. If it fails on an air brake system, it could either result in a loss of air pressure (if it fails open) or a lack of draining (if it fails closed.) The former could affect brake operation, while the latter could cause a water buildup because you think they're doing their job when they aren't. Finally, I wouldn't want the process to be fully automatic, because I want to see if there is any oil, water, or dirt coming out of the valve when it is opened. Oil could be an indication of a compressor problem, while water or dirt could indicate a failure of the desiccant/filter. Either situation is an indication that service is required.

While this sounds like a good idea on the surface, it doesn't sound like something I would want to try. You need to make your own call.

[caymann]

Excellent point.
I don't intend to use the kit as is , instead use parts of it just to drain air manually

[ShapeShifter]

Quote:

Originally Posted by caymann Excellent point. I don't intend to use the kit as is , instead use parts of it just to drain air manually

Then I guess I don't understand. How will you trigger these valves? They need to see a change in air pressure in that trigger hose, and even then, they are likely to only open for a short time. That short time might be enough to expel accumulated water if triggered each time the compressor cycles, but if used manually (which implies only occasionally) I wonder if they will stay open long enough?

To trigger the purge valves, you would have to work up some sort of valving system to the trigger line, and then connect that to an air pressure source. If you're going to go to that much work to rig it up, maybe some electric solenoid valves (like used for the air bag dump) would be a simpler way to go? That way, a set of push buttons would be all you need to trigger them.