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Old 08-14-2017, 06:02 PM   #15
YC1
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While things seem to be working correctly, print out that picture. Grab your voltmeter and test light. Find a good ground for both of them and then take readings on all of the terminals on the solenoids shown.

When it fails again, carefully take the same measurements. RESIST the temptation to hit the switch on and off again. Just take the cover off the panel if it has one and gently connect your meter and test light.

Those silver round solenoids can be taken apart and cleaned but they are cheap and I do not recommend it.

The solenoid someone suggested is in your engine bay is probably not there based on the looks of the panel shown. It appears to have the large solenoid in the bottom section as the battery combiner for the emergency start function.
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Old 08-14-2017, 06:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8thDegree View Post
Thanks for all the replies everyone.



I had an opportunity to go work on the RV today and I took the salesman switch that I originally removed and replaced it. As I wired it up, I heard a click that I believe is above the doorway. After completing the re installation of the switch, I turned it off and on several times and heard the click every single time. I believe it is coming from the Heart Interface which has the inverter on/off switch along with a series of leds showing current levels for the different electrical systems.



All that said, everything is now working like it should! Every time the salesman switch was turned on, I heard the click but all the coach lights came on. When turned off I again heard the noise above me, but none of the lights came on. I wish my wife would have been there as I could have had her put her hand on it to see if that is what is making the noise.



Jeff, sorry I did not get a chance to open the engine bay and take a picture. Another member e-mailed me and told me which solenoid that the switch controls. Here is the picture he sent me of his (as far as I can tell, mine looks exactly like his). He also put an arrow on the solenoid to check out.

Attachment 172841



K7JV, To answer your first question I have been in the martial arts forever, thus the screen name. Do you think you can clean the contacts of the solenoid in the above picture? That is the one controlled by the salesman switch at the door. Our battery cut off switches are located at the top left of this electrical box in the engine bay. As I said in my original post, I checked them and they are working fine.



Nothermark, like I originally said I attached them because nothing worked (coach or chassis) and every time I turned that switch on the battery level monitor would show some current then quickly die. I have since checked the switch using my car battery and a 12 volt test light. It works perfectly and I reinstalled it this afternoon. That is when I starting hearing clicks that I believe are coming from above the door. I am not an expert but don't think there is any way you could hurt anything as all I did was bypass the switch. The switch simply lets current run through it in the on position. Hooking the wires up is exactly what happens when you turn the switch on (as long as the switch works). Please correct me if I am wrong, but that is my understanding of a two wire DC switch. Other members have told me that the salesman switch controls a much larger solenoid in the electrical box in the engine bay. That is where I think my problems are coming from (fingers crossed).



JC1, thanks as that is the same info I received from another member earlier today. He also sent me that picture above and showed me which one to check.



Again, great group on here and I will keep you posted on my progress!


You must not have been plugged into shore power when you took that picture. If you were the light on the box in the lower right hand corner should light when your house batteries are under charge voltage. It keeps your chassis battery charged. It's about $300 for a new one from the guys that used to make them.
I've had to replace both the battery isolator (lower left) about $90 and the battery charger (lower right in your picture )
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Old 08-14-2017, 06:14 PM   #17
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Keep those big lugs on the lower left nice and clean. There is a lot of D.C. Current in this box so make sure everything is off when you work on it. Check it with a meter. It can burn you.
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Old 08-14-2017, 06:19 PM   #18
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I'm not sure what the smaller device at the bottom right is,

LE-415 Lambert Battery Maintainer
https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/Surfa...8-p/le-415.htm
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Old 08-14-2017, 07:45 PM   #19
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Thanks again for all the suggestions and replies! I really do appreciate all of them.

Just to clarify, that picture that I posted is NOT of my Dynasty. I received it from another member who saw my post. He also recently purchased a 1997 Dynasty and had been reviewing the electrical system of his coach when he saw my post and he sent me that picture. At least I know which solenoid that the salesman switch by the door controls, plus I know what the other solenoids control. Could not ask for more.

Hopefully some time this week I will be able to take the electrical box cover off of mine and do some diagnostic work and follow all of your suggestions.

Then I can scratch another off my to do list...
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