Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Monaco Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-31-2017, 05:54 AM   #15
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Perry, OH
Posts: 46
continuing Monaco electical problem

Okay, here's the latest. I hope the schematics copy okay. I found the schematic of the front run panel. Actually, I have a book with all the schematics for our 2000 Signature admiral. Anyway, first pic is the bottom right of the schematic with the relay and fuse block Myron mentioned. The blue box is the relay that doesn't seem to be energizing. The red box is a small fuse block with no power. The green arrow and the pink arrows in the relay are the only two terminals that have 12v power at all times, whether the coach is running or not. The green arrow terminal went to the Panasonic memory fuse in the small fuse block. However, for some reason, the other end of the Panasonic memory fuse, pink arrow, a yellow wire, was removed from that fuse block and spliced to the green wire at the other end of the pink arrows, so the 12v going from the green arrow terminal to that fuse did nothing. Therefore, at Myron's suggestion, I took the green wire that fed the non-working fuse block and moved it to the terminal that previously fed the panasonic memory (light blue arrow), which now gave me power to the backup camera, which I desperately need for my trip. Also in that relay is the white wire (brown arrow), which might be important, but I can't figure out where it goes. Using the schematics here, the white wire goes up and over the small fuse block and turns up (brown arrows). Then on the other schematic, it goes to something labeled "motor ground," and I don't know where it goes from there, as I don't know how to read the rest. I'll continue in the next post with the other problem I found.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	bottom right.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	348.3 KB
ID:	150529   Click image for larger version

Name:	middle center.jpg
Views:	91
Size:	424.3 KB
ID:	150530  

joefromperry is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 01-31-2017, 06:12 AM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Perry, OH
Posts: 46
Okay, following the previous post, I now have a backup camera, but still no power to driver or passenger armrest switches, which include map lights, ceiling lights in cockpit area, etc. These look like they are supplied from the center domestic fuse block, which, unlike most other fuse blocks that are supplied by red 4ga cables through the two solenoids in the box, are fed from a 4ga black ground cable. Going back to my first schematic, the yellow arrow points to a purple wire, a good ground, that connects from the relay (blue box) to the non-functioning domestic fuse block (light blue box). The purple wire connects directly to the 4ga black wire, which goes directly to a large black post/terminal in the side of that front run panel compartment. The ground is good. And so, that's where I am. I have my backup camera, but still no power to anything in that domestic fuse block, which seems to be powered by a ground cable. This morning I will trudge through the new snow (on top of the old snow) here in northeast OH, and connect one end of a test lamp to a good 12v source, and with the other end check each of the fuses in the dead block. Maybe that will tell me something. I'm still puzzled by the white wire mentioned earlier and if that might have something to do with that relay not functioning. I think I've used up all of the little electrical troubleshooting knowledge I have. I appreciate all the help. Oh, regarding that original salesman solenoid in back, all wires are connected as they were, except both the input and output cables are now both connected to the input side of the solenoid. Otherwise, if I put the output cable back to the output side, I don't get house lights.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	bottom right.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	348.3 KB
ID:	150532  
joefromperry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 06:42 AM   #17
Registered User
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Varies Depending on The Weather
Posts: 8,517
The defective Salesman Switch Solenoid has nothing to do with the other problems. Bypass the damn thing and leave it alone for good. Mine has been bypassed for over 12 years now and never needed it in the first place. However, I would recommend disconnecting the purple control wire from the solenoid, tape the end and zip-tie it somewhere safe. This prevents any power going to the solenoid coil which may cause problems in the future like a fire or a meltdown.

In regards to the power problem in the FRB, I agree that the ignition switch is one place that many Monaco's have had problems with previously so that should be looked into as a possible cause.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Dr4Film is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 06:46 AM   #18
Senior Member


 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,911
joefromperry-

On that relay:

10GA GRN TO J3(7) is 12V power, always on
14GA WHT is ground
10GA PUR is 12V power, switched
10GA GRN is power to the fuse block, above
14GA GRN is power to the Panasonic memory

By wiring it this way, the radio memory is always on, and the rest of the fuse block is live when the "Domestic" (i.e., house) battery switch is in the "on" position.

Splicing the 10GA GRN TO J3(7) wire to the 14GA YEL to M34(6) wire bypassed the Panasonic fuse. I wonder what the problem is/was that someone wanted to bypass the fuse? If there is a short at the radio end of the yellow wire, you're no longer protected.

Myron's temporary fix implies that the relay has failed.

With the diagrams you can re-wire this back to the original configuration.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
l1v3fr33ord1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 06:56 AM   #19
Senior Member


 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,911
joefromperry-

Your post #16 indicates some confusion. The black cable to the "Domestic" fuse panel is a positive 12V power connection, not a ground.

On the other side of the stud to which the black cable connects is a 1AWG red cable that should go to the house battery disconnect switch. If that switch is "off," everything on that fuse panel, and the one attached via the PUR wire, will be dead.

Check your house battery disconnect switch first. If it's "off," turn it "on." If it's already "on," look for 12V on the output. These switches can fail.

[Addendum: In my post #18 I said the relay had likely failed. This may not be the case. If there is no power to the fuse block (PUR wire), then the relay could be OK. First order of business is to get 12V to the "Domestic" and "CD GPS BACK-UP" fuse panels/relay.]
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
l1v3fr33ord1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 06:58 AM   #20
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Perry, OH
Posts: 46
Thank you, Mark. A few questions:

1. You indicate the purple wire is 12v, but it is wired directly into the black 4ga wire that feeds the domestic block, and that wire is connected directly to that large ground terminal. I don't understand how that can be. For testing I thought the black 4ga cable from the terminal on the side wall was negative because when I put the voltmeter onto the red post(s), and put the other end on the black cable, it gave me 12v.

The purple wire in the relay, which connects to the large black cable, tests negative, too, when measured with a meter to a 12v positive.

2. Also, when you say go back to the original relay wiring, do you mean to split the green/yellow wire splice and put it back on the panasonic memory fuse and put the two green wires as they were?

That would mean I lose my backup camera again. I appreciate any explanation to help me understand.

3. Regarding the relay- should I replace it? Myron indicated the troubleshooting we did meant it was good - you're saying the opposite - We tested by jumping across the relay from the green/yellow-spliced wire to the other side, the relay clicked.

4. Are there any specifics for testing the ignition switch or the main disconnect?
joefromperry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 08:47 AM   #21
Senior Member


 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,911
joefromperry-

I could be incorrect- it's happened many times before!

By your diagrams, where does the other end of the 1AWG cable terminate in the Rear Run Panel? By a drawing set I have for the 2007 Signature/Dynasty/etc., the cable terminates on a circuit breaker on that panel.

Here's my thinking: 12VDC circuits are normally fused at the beginning of the run, to protect the wiring from shorts; the 12V loads are normally grounded near the load (I know there are exceptions). If a fuse block has only one stud, as these appear to have, then it logically follows that the stud is 12V positive.

Another tip-off is that the white wire goes off to a ground somewhere else. If the fuse panel studs were ground, the wire would terminate on the stud (shorter wire).

I believe it's possible that you can read a ground at the stud if any of the loads fused through the fuse panel are connected to ground at the time of the measurement, and the 12V upstream of the stud is cut off.

Don't get confused by the fuse panel for the CD/GPS/etc. I believe it's specially wired so that the Panasonic fuse is not fed from the common stud.

Now that I see there's possibly a circuit breaker in the Rear Run Panel that feeds the fuse panels in question, I'd suggest checking that breaker's status (is it tripped?) next.

As far as the relay and its replacement, rewiring, etc., I would not touch that until you fixed the larger problem of no 12V to either fuse panel. As I said, the temporary fix you and Myron worked out would work if the relay was OK, and if the relay had failed (because the "normally closed" output is now attached to the permanently powered green wire).

As I said, I could be incorrect- but then again, maybe not. Your diagrams should help you sugar that out.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
l1v3fr33ord1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 10:03 AM   #22
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Perry, OH
Posts: 46
updates

According to the schematic the items that are out in the front panel go back to the left hand solenoid at the Rear Run Plate. This solenoid is right next to the one that failed for the 12V cut switch.

Funny enough I just now noticed that the purple trigger from the passenger 12V cut switch appears to be a trigger for both solenoids.

On the left hand solenoid I have 12V at every lug except the output (just like the RH failed solenoid). I am thinking of jumping the output cable to 12V to see if it fixes my problem or breaks something else ..... - Stay tuned.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Rear Run Plate - Solonoids.jpg
Views:	71
Size:	228.3 KB
ID:	150555  
joefromperry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 11:01 AM   #23
Registered User
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Varies Depending on The Weather
Posts: 8,517
I would bypass both of those solenoids. They are both high failure items and if the purple wire triggers both then that's your problem.

Connect the large cables onto one side of the solenoid and get rid of the purple wire. Tape it then zip-tie it out of the way.

My coach only has one salesman solenoid but I know others utilize two.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Battery Cut-off Relay-02.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	96.3 KB
ID:	150558  
Dr4Film is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 11:06 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Perry, Ohio
Posts: 129
looks like a 2nd bad solonoid

So we bypassed the 2nd 12V solonoid and now things appear to be working except for the ceiling lights and porch light. I wonder if some bulbs toasted during the last couple days. Most importantly we now have aquahot head up front -

We are double checking the schematic on the ceiling lights.
__________________
Jonathon Lorek
2004 Newmar Mountain Aire 4302 - Spartan w/ISL400
Perry, Ohio 44081
jonohio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 01:03 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
RamiDav's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,186
Probably be a good idea to document all your changes and any changes you discover
that were done by previous owner .
Memory just doesn't work for me especially on things like this .

Who knows you may want to try to put it all in proper order someday .

Ray
RamiDav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 02:05 PM   #26
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Perry, OH
Posts: 46
All Fixed! As Jon said, and Richard suggested, we bypassed both of the solenoids in back, and disconnected and taped off the purple wire. That gave us almost everything back except for the few lights he mentioned. So we checked again at the rear 12v panel in the rear cabinet, and sure enough, the 20A fuse to those lights was blown. So we buttoned all up and it's good. Thanks so much for all who helped us out here, especially Myron, who spent a good deal of time on the phone with me.

By the way, earlier when I indicated the Panasonic memory wire was moved to another terminal, it was mentioned that the unit would not be fused now. However, I discovered it does have an in-line fuse, so it's good. I'm still not sure why it was moved, but all works okay now. Heading out tomorrow, fingers crossed. Thanks, again.

Joe and Jonathon Lorek
joefromperry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 02:19 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
flamebuster's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 262
Glad to hear you up and running...I may be a little late and deciphering all the schematics is a challenge on these rigs..But if it should help on my 07 Dynasty there was a fuse clear in the rear curb side panel where the inverter is located that controlled the power to energize the relay in the front street side compartment for all the accessories. If I understand the last post here you found this fuse or just a fuse to control the lights..?? Anyway happy travels..
__________________
Doug and Sue.
07 Diplomat 40 PET
2011 Jeep Liberty pushing.
flamebuster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2017, 05:12 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Monaco Owners Club
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Perry, Ohio
Posts: 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by joefromperry View Post
All Fixed! As Jon said, and Richard suggested, we bypassed both of the solenoids in back, and disconnected and taped off the purple wire. That gave us almost everything back except for the few lights he mentioned. So we checked again at the rear 12v panel in the rear cabinet, and sure enough, the 20A fuse to those lights was blown. So we buttoned all up and it's good. Thanks so much for all who helped us out here, especially Myron, who spent a good deal of time on the phone with me.

By the way, earlier when I indicated the Panasonic memory wire was moved to another terminal, it was mentioned that the unit would not be fused now. However, I discovered it does have an in-line fuse, so it's good. I'm still not sure why it was moved, but all works okay now. Heading out tomorrow, fingers crossed. Thanks, again.

Joe and Jonathon Lorek

Hey Dad, remember to pack some bourbon on your trip , I think there are a few well deserved drinks in store when you and I meet up in Florida next month. Perhaps we should stop by Tampa and thank Myron in person too
__________________
Jonathon Lorek
2004 Newmar Mountain Aire 4302 - Spartan w/ISL400
Perry, Ohio 44081
jonohio is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
electrical



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
June Lake: we spent 5 days at Twin Lakes and now are at June Lake for 5 days. Fishi Forest Grump Camping Locations, Plans & Trip Reports 12 06-23-2015 02:10 PM
Trip of a Lifetime in 6 Days Alan Wilson Camping Locations, Plans & Trip Reports 15 08-16-2014 08:11 PM
trip to Alaska in 61 days Papawto5 iRV2.com General Discussion 10 03-24-2013 12:38 PM
4 Days until a short trip Rsanchez24 Camping Locations, Plans & Trip Reports 13 04-02-2012 06:05 AM
5 days and counting - 3 month trip hawgguy Class A Motorhome Discussions 18 03-28-2012 08:11 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.