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Old 07-20-2015, 06:22 AM   #15
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Thanks, I'll check the box by unplugging wires and assume that this is the only way to determine if the controller has failed. If it does not go to full speed, I'll then move on to something else.
David White. 05 Windsor

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Old 07-20-2015, 07:32 AM   #16
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Location: Apollo Beach FL
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Dave, when you unplug the controller, it should go to full fan, thats the fail safe built into them. When they fail, your fan will run at full speed keeping you from overheating. One thing you can try is, the next time it goes to full fan, try wiggeling the the wires where they enter the controller, when my unit started to fail I could get it out of full fan by playing aroud with the wires......Bruce

Bruce and Sandy 2018 Coachmen Leprechaun 26DS Chevy
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Old 07-20-2015, 07:54 AM   #17
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Here is a picture of my sauer danfoss controler, it was mounted on the drivers side of the engine compartment. Very easy to get to. The other pics that show up are the Source Engineering wax valve replacement......Bruce
Bruce and Sandy 2018 Coachmen Leprechaun 26DS Chevy
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Old 08-15-2015, 09:57 AM   #18
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My fan seems to run at the same speed all the time. I unplugged the controller and it seems like it picked up a little speed. How hard is it suppose to blow at high speed. Thinking about joining the two lines by by-passing acuator and see how hard it blows. Any thoughts. Jim
2006 Monaco Camelot 40 PAQ 400ISL - Toad Jeep Grand Cherokee - DW is the Nagivator. Work to travel and everything revolves around the price of diesel.
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Old 08-15-2015, 10:08 AM   #19
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Wow, it seems like it doesn't matter, side rad, rear rad, hydraulic drive, belt drive. It's not a matter of if these fan clutches fail, but when. BTDT.

Larry & Cheryl Oscar, Louie, Ranger & Henry (our Springers)
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engine, fan

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