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Old 10-18-2014, 07:36 PM   #1
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Engine Won't Start!

I have a starting problem with my 2006 HR Scepter with a 400 Hp Cummings ISL engine. I purchased this coach this spring and the dealer I purchased it from filled the fuel tank. I asked if all the filters were changed and was told yes.


I drove the coach about 400 miles and parked it at our RV site until last week. On my trip home it immediately lost power and the check engine light came on. I got the rig to a diesel repair shop and had the fuel filters replaced (the filter with the water separator was fouled, most of the outer openings were covered with gunk).


The 400 mile trip back home was uneventful, the engine seemed to run fine. When I got home I decided to check the filter to see if there was any crud buildup, the filter seemed clean so I screwed it back in place and after a few tries the engine started and ran for a few minutes, so I shut it down.


Today, I attempted to start the engine and it would not start. I pulled the batteries and had them checked by several auto shops and each location told me the batteries were marginal so I replaced them with 950 CCA batteries of the same type.


The engine still won't start, so, I replaced the filters and again it won't start. I added fuel to the filters, however did not have enough clean fuel on hand to fill the fine micron filter, its about 3/4 full. I turned the key on to prime the filters several times, maybe I am not leaving the key on long enough to prime that one filter?


Also, this coach has air leveling and the air bags are deflated and since I can't start the engine to pressurize the bags can I connect an air compressor to the air chuck located in the generator compartment to pressurize the bags? I am thinking I may have to crawl under the coach to get to something and the way it is now I can't crawl under it.


My Questions are:


a. Could there be fouling somewhere in the fuel system that is preventing fuel from getting into the fuel filters? I ask this because of the way the initial filter looked, bad!


b. Can I pressurize the air bags using a portable air compressor?


c. After reading comments about pouring fuel into the fuel filter I am paranoid about contaminating the injectors. I did add fuel to the outer holes of the fine micron filter. However, the one with the water separator clean fuel got into both the inner and outer ports.


I thank you in advance for your thoughts and comments!


Thanks! Bill
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:45 PM   #2
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What is happing when you turn the key to the start position.


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Full timing out of Silver Springs, FL

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Old 10-18-2014, 07:51 PM   #3
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The engine turns over, however, no start.
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Old 10-19-2014, 03:15 AM   #4
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Time to drop the filters and top them off before trying again. There are several threads on the issue if you try a search you should find them. To fill or not to fill is an argument that comes up often. I can tell you my manual says not to fill them but I have yet been able to start it if I don't, even when doing one filter at a time.

Some have put about 3 psi in the fuel tank while cranking. Seems the fuel runs back to the tank and leaves a lot of air in the line. Maybe I will just install a small electric pump right at the tank. Anyone know how much fuel volume would be needed. A small avocet inline pump just might do the trick.
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:11 AM   #5
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Add a shock treatment of Biobor to kill the algae. Turn key to on for 30 seconds then off. Repeat about 20 times. Once air is in injectors it will be difficult to start. Only turn over engine maybe 30 seconds then wait 2 minutes to allow starter to cool.
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:56 AM   #6
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I agree 100% with DbDt. Find a West Marine store and buy a bottle of Biobar JF biocide. Use what is called the shock treatment on the instructions. It will the algae in 24 hours. Pour diesel fuel into a small known clean container such as a plastic coke bottle or milk bottle and fill those fuel filters all the way up. That switch the key on and off to make sure it is primed and give it a try. Also in the front right corner of the MH should be an air fitting just under the bumper that tow trucks use. You can plug in an air compressor and inflate the suspension. Carry several primary fuel filters with you until the dead algae has been collected. Don't have to change the secondary.
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:39 AM   #7
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When I know that the RV will be parked for a period of time I always make sure the fuel tank is left full. This will prevent the build of condensation/water in the tank. I also add a dose of the Biobor to prevent algae build up.

I recently also started to add the StarTron Diesel fuel enzyme treatment which is suppose to breakdown any algae. Just started this so don't know how well or if this works. I was able to shop on line and find this for a reasonable price. Local suppliers wanted 3X $$.

I do not prefill my filters, just change one at a time, turn the key off and on multiple times and then start engine after change one filter and then repeat process. I also inspect my filters to see what comes out of them to see if I have any contamination.
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Old 10-19-2014, 12:21 PM   #8
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Jim it wont fill the primary on our ISC or ISL engines with cycling the key you are getting the filter full by running the engine but cycling the key will fill the secondary filter but I also prefill in the outside holes only by plugging the outlet middle hole , lots simpler and cant hurt anything.
I have been running Star Tron in everything i own that has a engine for about 3 yrs now I think its does the job.
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Old 10-19-2014, 01:50 PM   #9
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You can connect an air hose & air up your coach.
Pull the filters & fill them with fresh fuel.
Turn the key to on (don't crank engine) for about 30 seconds. Do this 4 or 5 times.
Try to start the engine.
No start, fill filters again.
Pressurize fuel tank with about 2 to 3 lbs. of air pressure. This will force fuel to the filters.
Should start this time.
When parking for a long period of time fill tank & use a biocide to prevent algae growth in your tank.
Good luck.
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Old 10-19-2014, 04:47 PM   #10
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Thanks For Your Helpful Comments!

I am going to try to pressurize the fuel tank with 3-4 lbs of compressed air. It looks like the fuel vent line would the best place to install a temporary connection point.

However, before I attempt this process are there any points between the fuel line pickup point and the filters that could be fouled with crud? I was thinking maybe there might be a check valve in the fuel line to keep fuel from running back into the tank or a screen of some type to keep big chunks from moving into the fuel line?

Thanks Again!

Bill
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