Eternabond Question

[WheelingIt]

Hi All,

We're getting ready to eternabond the front and rear caps on our 2008 Holiday Rambler Endeavor. However there seems to be some old tape (?) up on the seal, some of which is underneath the dicor and would be a pain to remove

My question -> DO you think we need to remove this tape, or can we just put the eternabond over everything (after cleaning)? If we need to remove any ideas as how best to do it?

Nina

Here's what it looks like up there:

[Barlow46]

I would remove the tape as best I could and as you said, clean the area real good before putting down the Eternabond. I'm not sure I would get into a "fight" with the Dicor that is covering the tape but I would make sure the Eternabond is wide enough to get a good grip on the other side of the Dicor.

["007"]

I would clean and maybe remove the loose caulking on the end caps and use the 6" wide tape from roof to the fiberglass end cap and do the same in the front if same condition.
You may use sealant to hold down the loose tape your showing for smooth job.
Use a wall paper roller to make tight seal of new tape.
ROOF MAINTENANCE

[The Danes Are Coming]

This appears to be another general issue with the Monaco's. We had exactly the same problem when our MH was just over 1 year old. Monaco refused to repair this free of charge so we did the repair ourselves.

Check out this link.

Our repair is now 3-4 years old and it looks like the day we did the repair.

Here is what we did:

We removed all the Dicor type caulking. For this we carefully used a putty knife. We tried to remove some of the tape but had to give up. We then came to the conclusion that if it was that stuck we might as well leave it on. Any loose part of tape was cut away, and where tape was bubbling it was also removed. Clean all surfaces wit a solvent. Applied Eternabond (we love this stuff) and finished around the ladder with small pieces of Eternabond plus Dicor.

This is the way to do it. There is absolutely no doubt.

Beware: Getting the old Dicor styff off is hard work but it's worth it. Careful not to damage the body work in the process.

[WheelingIt]

THANK YOU everyone for the great input!!
Nina

[old bullfrog]

Removing caulking? Putty knife vs oscillating tool?

I recently did repairs on house and while trying to use putty knife to remove caulking a carpenter friend mentioned that an oscillating tool would make the job MUCH easier. I used a 20% off coupon and bought the "cheap?" one from Harbor Freight.

Cordless Oscillating Multifunction Tool

WOW! Much easier (my opinion)! Used the angled scraper blade. DON'T force it though. Just gentle and steady. Let the tool do the work.

Good luck on your project. I've got to do similiar on my 1st time rv "almost vintage" class a this spring.

Old Bullfrog

[tylerdmoore]

Interesting idea Old Bullfrog. Do you think that tool would damage or scratch up the underlying fiberglass?

I need to replace a skylight and do some additional seal maintenance, it would be great to use that tool if it won't cause any damage.

[JC2]

Here is a link that might be of help on removing eternabond if needed.
Roof Leak Repair Products & Sealing Tape | EternaBond®

I used a heatgun set on low and a small putty knife to remove old calk.

[tylerdmoore]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC2 Here is a link that might be of help on removing eternabond if needed. Roof Leak Repair Products & Sealing Tape | EternaBond® I used a heatgun set on low and a small putty knife to remove old calk.

Thanks JC2. That does help. I do want to remove everything and start fresh...the only way to know for sure that it's right. I only want to do this once

[old bullfrog]

That's where the "gentle and steady" comes in.

I personally think a better job can be accomplished using the oscillating tool IF the operator remembers "gentle & steady". Of course on a very small job the putty knife would probably be just as good.

Good luck!

[Airtool]

Nina! Heat works to soften the Dicor sealant. I have used a piece of wood,Like wooden shims to remove the material once you get it warmed up. This reduces the chance of cutting or placing deep scratches in the material being cleaned.
Used a hair drier as a heat source to warm small areas at a time.Must admit that I killed one hair drier doing the job!
I can not tell if the roof material is EPDM from you picture,if it is do not use any oil based products to clean the area,it reacts with the material an it bubbles some, for lack of a better word an will not lay flat.
This is a time consuming process,but the time spent is well worth it.

Dick.

[tylerdmoore]

Nina, would you please post some progress pics as you go? I'd love to see, and hear about what you find that works best.

Thanks, Tyler

[ArmyEOD]

I just did my rig, the seams were ok, but showing some ware, the seam tape that Monaco used was very thin and the edges were sealed with dicor type chaulking. Anyway I went to the Eternabond web site and ordered the product "Seam Eliminator" it is 6 inches wide and about 3/16 thick. It comes in 10ft rolls (2) rolls. It is made to cover any exsisting seam material as long as it over laps the other crap. I used a stiff brush, old towel, and plastic putty knife to clean up any lose material. I wiped it all down with Acetaone, let it dry for about 20 min and the applied the product as directed on both the front and rear cap seams. I had maybe a foot left from each roll. I cut it into strips and sealed around my airhorns and ants. Worked great, easy to use. From the factory with shipping about 90.00.

[WheelingIt]

More great input everyone! We won't start this until sometime next week, but getting all the prep work ready now. We have the 4" eternabond on-hand already so I think we will make do w/ that (altho' I DO like the sound of that 6" seam-eliminator!), and I very much appreciate the idea of applying heat. A trip to Lowes for some shopping next......oh yeah!

Nina