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Old 02-04-2018, 10:43 PM   #29
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My fans are running wide open, I checked the two wires going to the coil and have no voltage when cold. Is this right or should it be something around 12 volts when cold?

thanks
Larry
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Old 02-06-2018, 01:26 PM   #30
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Fan stuck wide open

Not very good with photo markups but heres what I know
The first photo may be my wax thermovalve? If so it has in and out marked. If I trace the lines they go to in at the back of the fan Motor along with the hydraulic tank reservoir line which I think goes to the bottom of my hydraulic tank.
The out hose goes to the bottom of the motor in the second pic.
Do they look like they are reversed?
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:20 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry koenn View Post
My fans are running wide open, I checked the two wires going to the coil and have no voltage when cold. Is this right or should it be something around 12 volts when cold?

thanks
Larry
I'm assuming you have the Sauer Danfoss FDCA. I believe it should have power when cold.

You can take the big nut off of the solenoid and place a magnet where the nut was to activate the solenoid; the fan should slow down.

On the bench I was unable to actuate the solenoid with the nut on it even with a 2" rare earth magnet.

If you can find the electronic pack, that is probably all that is wrong with it. I was unable to find that part.
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:46 PM   #32
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Jeff -- That is the wax valve -- Your`s is plumbed a little different than our`s -- The lines look to be the same size, so reverse the lines either at the valve or the motor, witch ever is easier to get to -- The OUT line is the return line & returns to the hydraulic tank, the IN line is the pressure line -- You won`t lose much or any oil on the pressure line, & the return line will probably leak a little, but no pressure, so not much of a problem -- Bill Willard
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:54 PM   #33
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Fan stuck wide open

Quote:
Originally Posted by William Willard View Post
Jeff -- That is the wax valve -- Your`s is plumbed a little different than our`s -- The lines look to be the same size, so reverse the lines either at the valve or the motor, witch ever is easier to get to -- The OUT line is the return line & returns to the hydraulic tank, the IN line is the pressure line -- You won`t lose much or any oil on the pressure line, & the return line will probably leak a little, but no pressure, so not much of a problem -- Bill Willard

So Im pretty sure the line labeled IN on the valve goes to the back of the motor and couples to the line from the hydraulic tank. If thats true the lines appear reversed???

Im going to see if I can get a part number off the Motor and see how its supposed to plumbed.
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:19 PM   #34
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Fan stuck wide open

I could use a bit more help
1) I read these are two number 6 hydraulic lines. Does anyone have a description or link to the proper plug and a union for testing the valve.
And
If anyone has a 2001 Dynasty with a 350 ISC can you tell me if the line labeled in on the wax valve goes to the back of the motor or bottom. You can see this from the rear hatch.

On my wax valve the left line (labeled Out on the wax valve body) goes to the pump?? On the bottom of the Motor. Is that correct or reversed Click image for larger version

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Old 02-07-2018, 07:58 PM   #35
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Jeff,

The hose ends are the standard JIC flare type fitting. Go to a local hydraulic shop and buy a union and 2 plugs that will fit.
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Old 02-08-2018, 09:12 AM   #36
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Jeff -- The fittings are # 6, 37 degree flare -- If you`er going to disconnect the lines anyway, why not reverse the lines & see if that`s the problem -- Won`t hurt anything, & it will answer your concern about switched lines -- Bill Willard
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Old 02-08-2018, 12:46 PM   #37
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Fan stuck wide open

Quote:
Originally Posted by William Willard View Post
Jeff -- The fittings are # 6, 37 degree flare -- If you`er going to disconnect the lines anyway, why not reverse the lines & see if that`s the problem -- Won`t hurt anything, & it will answer your concern about switched lines -- Bill Willard


Yes I figured Id swap them but wanted the union/plugs on hand when I do it.

For verification Id like to find out from another owner which way their lines are routed. You can clearly see In and Out on the wax valve when its wet. My Out from the wax valve goes to the bottom of the motor which I presume is the pump.

Headed home today so I can play with it. Need to buy some jacks too.

I guess I need two new orings too.
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Old 02-08-2018, 06:56 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William Willard View Post
Jeff -- That is the wax valve -- Your`s is plumbed a little different than our`s -- The lines look to be the same size, so reverse the lines either at the valve or the motor, witch ever is easier to get to -- The OUT line is the return line & returns to the hydraulic tank, the IN line is the pressure line -- You won`t lose much or any oil on the pressure line, & the return line will probably leak a little, but no pressure, so not much of a problem -- Bill Willard


Back home. 90% sure my lines are reversed and have been for the 5 years since Ive owned it. I run about 182 on flat roads which may be too cold since I think my fan is wide open.

My In line returns to the reservoir and Out line goes to the pump on the bottom of the fan motor. Maybe Ill get above 7 mpg
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:17 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by djhinds View Post
Replaced my thermovalve last year due to fan stuck on HIGH. Not nice driving around a campground on a gravel road!!! I ordered mine from
"White House Products" in Scotland for $260 delivered. I did not lose hardly any oil. I raised the hose ends above the tank height. I lost about a quart of antifreeze when removing and replacing the valve itself (left radiator cap on). If I remember right it took a 32mm wrench for the valve. Now the radiator fan works perfectly as designed. I did not find anything inside the old valve to stick it wide open.

Here is where I got the new thermovalve...

553/1/09857/210

Good luck
Dave

You think its a 32mm wrench for the valve ehh? I wondered how it came out. I see the hex now. Threaded I guess. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-09-2018, 04:42 PM   #40
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Here is what I found about my 04 Signature with a Detroit 60.


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Yes it is threaded with an O-ring to seal it..

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Old 02-12-2018, 02:52 PM   #41
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Two questions please
This line appears to be the return to the hydraulic tank from the back of the fan motor. It connects with a T to a line that runs from the back of the fan to the IN port of my wax valve on the radiator. Im pretty sure this should be on the OUT port of the wax valve.
Since the wax valve has had access to un-filtered transmission fluid via the return line it is probably plugged.
Is there a way to test the valve on a bench or clean it?
Also I want to have a union and plugs when I swap the lines to test the valve as well as new orings.
Its a 9/16 nut on the wax valve hoses. Does anyone know what size plug, union and oring a 9/16 nut hose needs?


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Old 02-13-2018, 08:38 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff753 View Post
Two questions please
This line appears to be the return to the hydraulic tank from the back of the fan motor. It connects with a T to a line that runs from the back of the fan to the IN port of my wax valve on the radiator. Im pretty sure this should be on the OUT port of the wax valve.
Since the wax valve has had access to un-filtered transmission fluid via the return line it is probably plugged.
Is there a way to test the valve on a bench or clean it?
Also I want to have a union and plugs when I swap the lines to test the valve as well as new orings.
Its a 9/16 nut on the wax valve hoses. Does anyone know what size plug, union and oring a 9/16 nut hose needs?


Thanks Attachment 192090Attachment 192091Attachment 192092
RE: Test

When I had my wax valve out, I could see the valve mechanism inside. I warmed the valve with a heat gun, and I could see the valve element move into position. I flushed mine out with WD-40 and then canned air to remove any clogs.

In my case, there was a crumb or two in the valve, but not enough to inhibit flow. My problem was caused by the restrictor in the line.
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