Fan stuck wide open

[Windecker]

Wax valve adjustment update.

I removed the end cap and adjusted the inside adjuster out (CCW) 3/4 turn as per known good source. Temps seemed to respond very close to what I wanted.

Kind of hanging around 182-183 level ground now, upper 180's on hills and still max nomatter what of 193

I have not seen an appreciable increase in MPG but only have about 600 miles on it so far. Will report back.

I have never really stared at the digital temp gauge as much as I have been this past couple of weeks but I would say it seems like the temps are jumping around a little more than before. Sort of like might fall below 180 for a minute and sort of bounce back to 183, then 180, then 182. Never seems to lock in so to speak. Maybe it was that way before, not sure. I do so little level ground traveling and had a lot of it since the change.
Windecker

[10Boomer]

Originally Posted by Windecker

Wax valve adjustment update.



I removed the end cap and adjusted the inside adjuster out (CCW) 3/4 turn as per known good source. Temps seemed to respond very close to what I wanted.



Kind of hanging around 182-183 level ground now, upper 180's on hills and still max nomatter what of 193



I have not seen an appreciable increase in MPG but only have about 600 miles on it so far. Will report back.



I have never really stared at the digital temp gauge as much as I have been this past couple of weeks but I would say it seems like the temps are jumping around a little more than before. Sort of like might fall below 180 for a minute and sort of bounce back to 183, then 180, then 182. Never seems to lock in so to speak. Maybe it was that way before, not sure. I do so little level ground traveling and had a lot of it since the change.

Windecker

Thanks for update, still following buddy.

[TR4]

Originally Posted by Windecker

Wax valve adjustment update.

I removed the end cap and adjusted the inside adjuster out (CCW) 3/4 turn as per known good source. Temps seemed to respond very close to what I wanted.

Were you trying to raise your temperatures? If so, what temperature would you like to see. When I do my conversion next month, I’d like to see temperatures between 190 to 200. These are the temperatures I’m seeing with my SD controller.

Bill

[Windecker]

Yes, raise it a little.

If you read back a few pages it is explained. I am shooting for low to mid 180's running and hoping to stay in the low 190's in the extreme hill climbs.

I guess the newer setups are running 210-220 running and a little higher, on hills but I sort of feel those numbers are for the engines designed to run that way.
Windecker

Originally Posted by TR4

Were you trying to raise your temperatures? If so, what temperature would you like to see. When I do my conversion next month, I’d like to see temperatures between 190 to 200. These are the temperatures I’m seeing with my SD controller.

Bill

[ZackMan]

Greetings All,

I have read each page of this thread and am soliciting your feedback on the two attached pictures.

The first picture shows a hose going directly to the back of the fan motor I presume and the second picture shows a part with two hoses attached to it.

I looked at this thread’s pictures for a wax valve and fan controller. What are these two items in the attached pictures?

Sometimes as soon as I start the Cummins ISX 525, the fan roars wide open and then it will either stop or slow down. This is not confirmed because I did not stand back there. By the way, I have a side radiator.

Until I read this I thread I did not have a clue about either of these parts.

Thank you for any feedback.

ps - I took the pictures lying on my back with the iPhone pointing upward. Please excuse the awkwardness of the final results.

[Windecker]

Well I am not certain of the question you are asking but I think you are asking what this component is and how it relates to the Wax valve or electronic controller.

I can speak to the Wax valve as I have not owned one with the electronic controller (except for the ISM powered coach that had a electronic relay in series with the Wax valve which is different...).

Your two pictures reflect large diameter and small diameter hoses. The large diameter hoses are the hydraulic pressure in and out of the hydraulic motor to move air through the radiator. The small diameter hoses are the "control" hoses for how much of that supplied hydraulic pressure spins the hydraulic motor to move more or less air for cooling.

Those two smaller hoses go to either the Wax valve mounted to the radiator or an electronic controller.
Essentially, either of those two controllers via the two small hoses, tell the hydraulic fan motor to let more or less pressure through the motor as more or less heat is needed to be dissipated.

This is mine, very similar to yours I presume. I have an added hose for whatever reason which is a hose going back to the hydraulic tank. This is a "return" line.


A little easier to see the hose layout in this picture. The two small hoses on the left side of the motor sort of laying on the floor are what hooks to the Wax valve or electronic controller, depending on which your coach has.


A little difficult to see, but in the center of this picture, just above the mudflap, below the induction tube, you can see the additional electronic valve that the Cummins engines sometimes use. This is a "full on" valve which is controlled by the engine ECU. This valve is in series with the Wax valve and is not to be confused with the electronic controller. This valve is just a holy cowl, turn fan on full "now" valve. I believe it was related to the temperature in the Charge Air Cooler (turbo outlet temperature)

Hope that helped!
Windecker

Originally Posted by ZackMan

Greetings All,

I have read each page of this thread and am soliciting your feedback on the two attached pictures.

The first picture shows a hose going directly to the back of the fan motor I presume and the second picture shows a part with two hoses attached to it.

I looked at this thread’s pictures for a wax valve and fan controller. What are these two items in the attached pictures?

Sometimes as soon as I start the Cummins ISX 525, the fan roars wide open and then it will either stop or slow down. This is not confirmed because I did not stand back there. By the way, I have a side radiator.

Until I read this I thread I did not have a clue about either of these parts.

Thank you for any feedback.

ps - I took the pictures lying on my back with the iPhone pointing upward. Please excuse the awkwardness of the final results.

[ZackMan]

Windecker,

Thanks for your response especially with a description of the pictures you attached. I have a somewhat better understanding now by visual identification.

It seems that you had to remove the radiator to access the fan housing for your particular application.

I’ll need to go back out and look at the coach and just study. If I need to take it in, at least I will have some knowledge about the purpose of a wax valve and electronic controller.

Adieu!!

[CountryB]

Just to dump more info on you - here is a nice write up from my manual that explains the hydraulic components/valves in the fan system and how they work.

I hope the text is not too small.

[ZackMan]

Originally Posted by CountryB

Just to dump more info on you - here is a nice write up from my manual that explains the hydraulic components/valves in the fan system and how they work.

I hope the text is not too small.

CountryB,

Thanks!

[Windecker]

Nice share!
Windecker

Originally Posted by CountryB

Just to dump more info on you - here is a nice write up from my manual that explains the hydraulic components/valves in the fan system and how they work.

I hope the text is not too small.

[Crop Duster]

Originally Posted by TR4

Here’s the data sheet;
Attachment 195235
Fittings;
6400-06-05 - 3/8" JIC (9/16"-18 thread) x 5/16" ORB (1/2"-20 thread) Male—this fitting goes on the (in) of wax valve

6400-06-04 - 3/8" JIC (9/16"-18 thread) x 1/4" ORB (7/16"-20 thread) Male—
This fitting goes on the (out) of wax valve

The first numbers (6400-xx-xx) are the part numbers. The fittings were purchased from; https://www.hydraulicsdirect.com

These fittings are for #6 JIC fitting.

For hoses I measured from the wax valve to the (P) pilot port and the (T) tank port on the hydraulic fan motor. I needed about 60” of hose. I used 1/4” hose with #6 JIC fittings. They also come in #4.

I purchased pre made hoses from here;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29117282794...&ul_noapp=true

You can also buy JIC reducers to go from #6 to #4 JIC.

Bill

Bill, did the bung fitting come with the valve? Or, where did you find it?

[TR4]

Originally Posted by Crop Duster

Bill, did the bung fitting come with the valve? Or, where did you find it?

Barry, got it here;
Marcus Maxey
Fluid Design Products
3516 E. Main St.
Spokane, Wa. 99202
Phone:(509)533-0479
Fax: (509)534-2998

[Jeff753]

Originally Posted by William Willard

Jeff -- Any news -- Bill Willard

I finally reversed my hydraulic hoses that run to the wax valve and....that was it. Evidently when the previous owner had the radiator replaced they put the two hoses on the wax valve reversed. She now purrs like a kitten when cold instead of roaring on start up.
No gain in mpg that I can tell
Some great knowledge on this thread. Thanks to all.

[Windecker]

Well that is great Jeff, glad you got that working for you!

It is hard for me to believe that plastic fan can run that hard, that long and not fail, that is amazing! That fan really cranks when you run the engine up to cruise RPM, wow!

Windecker