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Old 06-06-2014, 08:17 AM   #1
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Front hydraulic leveling jack

The front jack does not come up all the way, opened the appropriate value and still stuck half way up. Used a floor jack to raise up , any ideas to resolve issue?

Bob
2005 HR Scepter
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:25 AM   #2
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If it's hydraulic, HWH, you are probably going t have to replace the jack. I've had to do both front ones on my 2003. I think the internal seals go bad. There is a lot of discussion on how to lubricate the cylinders to maintain the seals, and I use WD-40.
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:30 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Rjburian View Post
The front jack does not come up all the way, opened the appropriate value and still stuck half way up. Used a floor jack to raise up , any ideas to resolve issue?
Bob
2005 HR Scepter
Rjburian
On some jacks a weak or broken "return spring", (or springs), can cause that.
What brand jacks do you have?
Mel
'96 Safari
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:36 AM   #4
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Not sure , probably HwH, springs look ok, but will recheck when all the way down.
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:33 AM   #5
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Not sure what your jack cylinders look like when extended, but at least up until 2000, the jacks Monaco used had plain steel rams with not even any plating to resist corrosion. On both coaches I've had, one or more jacks would not retract completely. The cure was to extend them fully and use Scotch-Brite to remove all rust and corrosion--there was plenty of it. Once they were clean and shiny, they retracted fine. I think WD-40 will work OK, but I've seen posts from folks who said the jack manufacturers recommended silicone spray lube because it dried completely and did not leave any residue for dust to stick to.

You will see what looks like a seal in the end of the ram cylinder, but it is just a wiper. The seal is on the upper end of the ram cylinder and is never exposed. There are limits to what the wiper can do, however, and if your ram cylinder rods are neglected long enough, grit will work its way into the cylinder, usually ruining it, causing leaks, and can only be cured by replacing the entire cylinder--really expensive.
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:48 AM   #6
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Not sure what your jack cylinders look like when extended, but at least up until 2000, the jacks Monaco used had plain steel rams with not even any plating to resist corrosion. On both coaches I've had, one or more jacks would not retract completely. The cure was to extend them fully and use Scotch-Brite to remove all rust and corrosion--there was plenty of it. Once they were clean and shiny, they retracted fine. I think WD-40 will work OK, but I've seen posts from folks who said the jack manufacturers recommended silicone spray lube because it dried completely and did not leave any residue for dust to stick to.

You will see what looks like a seal in the end of the ram cylinder, but it is just a wiper. The seal is on the upper end of the ram cylinder and is never exposed. There are limits to what the wiper can do, however, and if your ram cylinder rods are neglected long enough, grit will work its way into the cylinder, usually ruining it, causing leaks, and can only be cured by replacing the entire cylinder--really expensive.
Vanwill
That's interesting.
I've used only WD-40, as recommended by RVA, on my RVA Jacks for 14 years, (I have never cleaned the "plain steel" rams).
I suppose I can expect my 18 year old jacks to fail anytime now?
Mel
'96 Safari, 132 miles
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:57 AM   #7
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Vanwill
That's interesting.
I've used only WD-40, as recommended by RVA, on my RVA Jacks for 14 years, (I have never cleaned the "plain steel" rams).
I suppose I can expect my 18 year old jacks to fail anytime now?
Mel
'96 Safari, 132 miles
Not unless they are rusty, rough, or corroded, Mel. If you have kept them clean, shiny and lubricated you may never have any trouble with them at all.
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