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Old 06-03-2018, 04:32 PM   #15
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I thought I would give an update because its been awhile. We have gone as far as we can troubleshooting this dead short. So now we are waiting on the shop to take it in. We are not electricians.

Last attempt we checked the ohms across the fuse holder itself. We read 26 ohms across it. I thought maybe if it was a bad fuse holder we could just replace it. But I think the whole fuse panel has to be replaced.

Looking behind the fuse panel in the bedroom closet, it is very hard to figure out if that bundle is going up in the roof or down to the floor. The wires are all white. I don't know where they actually connect to the wires connected to the appliances.

To add a bit more mystery, the wires coming out of the switches are not the same colors that are depicted on the wiring diagram. Oh what fun.
I hope we can leave sometime this year. sarcasm off.

Ill try to post some pics again.
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Old 06-03-2018, 05:51 PM   #16
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No. 8 Fuse blowing
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Old 06-03-2018, 05:53 PM   #17
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No.8 fuse wiring.pdf
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Old 06-03-2018, 05:54 PM   #18
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12v DC panel in back bedroom closet. pic is sideways.
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Old 06-03-2018, 05:57 PM   #19
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The mysterious TV (antenna) Booster. Over the driver. Below inverter remote control.
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:16 PM   #20
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I do not believe the fuse holder/panel is your problem. I'd check wiring to the step lights in the front as those wires are exposed (at least they are on my coach...)
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:37 PM   #21
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Reading that resistance across the fuse holder won't tell you much.

You should see 12 volts on one end of course and then measure the other end using a good ground. If you are seeing 26 ohms you do NOT have a short hence my feeling you may not be measuring correctly.

I am assuming it is a 15 amp or higher fuse???

A dead short can be a very time consuming endeavor as you are finding.

You might try a signal injector and try to chase the wire that way.

https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Tele...=signal+tracer

Connect the tone injector from ground to the fuse blowing shorted side of the fuse holder. Then use the sniffer to trace the wire. You will need to be very close to the wires when there is a dead short.

Don't let the complexity of the little tester worry you. It is easy to use and everyone with a complex machine like this needs one.
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:22 AM   #22
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Thank you,

I dont know how i can get close to the wires, they are in the wall, what i widh i knew is where does the single white wire connect to the wires that go to the appliances,

See the pic of the panel
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Old 06-04-2018, 09:45 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nehog View Post
I do not believe the fuse holder/panel is your problem. I'd check wiring to the step lights in the front as those wires are exposed (at least they are on my coach...)

I agree, this is where I would start, I'm not sure why so much focus has been on the TV boost switch, it's not in an exposed area and generally trouble free.


I agree with Twin boat, check what recently changed. then I would check the step light and motor. it's both exposed and moves a lot. Easy to unplug it and see if it's the culprit.
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Old 06-04-2018, 12:28 PM   #24
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The tv boost was on no,8 fuse, so i had to figure out what it was so i could disconnect it, everybody was telling me it had a green light, but mine is red,
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Old 06-09-2018, 09:28 AM   #25
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Update,

I had a minor breakthrough yesterday. I was able to see the white wires on the dc circuit panel go into the wall and connect to colored wires. I know it doesn't sound like a lot but its one end of the problem wire found.

So it looks like they connected a different colored wire on each white wire and ran it forward. At least now I know what color to look for up front. While I am there, I will be taking note of the colors of the other wires for the fuse panel.

We will go into the wall by removing the ac cb panel located on the other side of the wall. My hubby might try pulling out the bundle from the closet but I don't think there is enough slack.

I am not positive but I think the wires are going down to the floor and running through the bedroom, then the bathroom to the accordion thing and then up the slide wall, then across behind the oven and then through each overhead compartment on the right side of the coach. After the first overhead, the only place it can go is down through the front slide wall and then up into the passenger armrest.

If I was building this coach, I would branch off to all the different appliances in that first overhead. But thats just me. If anybody knows where the other end of that wire maybe found, please I beg you, let me know.
thanks moira
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Old 06-19-2018, 11:48 PM   #26
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Update

We never found the end of the wire connected to the #8 dc fuse.

But if I was wiring this thing the first place I would branch off is the first switch I came to which is the ceiling light switch on the pass side slide.

However, I do not know how to get into the overhead compartment cable run back there. It appears to me the trim has to be torn out, then somehow rip out the carpeting. If that wire was going to branch off it would be near that switch which is right under that overhead compartment right behind the pass seat.

Anyone have any ideas how to get in there. My DH is not willing to tear apart the coach to look for that dead short. But I am
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Old 06-20-2018, 03:56 AM   #27
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Moira-

Have you tried using a signal tracer, as Myron suggested in post 21?
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Old 06-20-2018, 10:19 AM   #28
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Moira-

Have you tried using a signal tracer, as Myron suggested in post 21?
Well I was going to. I went to one of the big box hardware stores and looked at a Sperry Wire Tracker. i called them and they said unless you can touch that wire, it was not going to work. Not even if I could get real close to it.

At the moment the wires are inaccessible. They are routed who knows where and DH is not willing to open anything up. Thats why I was trying to find the other end of the wire going to the fuse, so I could check continuity on that wire. I don't know what else it could be since I have physically removed the switches being powered by #8 fuse.

Unless the schematic is NOT showing something else that is wired to it and I don't know about it.

My best hope was to figure out a way to open that cable run in the first overhead cabinet/compartment behind the passenger seat and see if the wire from #8 was back there. It is the first switch you come to as the wire runs from the back of the coach forward from #8 fuse.
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